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Old 08-23-2011, 08:54 PM   #99
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Hmmmmm....I wonder why it turned my picture sideways?

Well, just so you know, I didnt install the panel sideways, it is right side up in the coach....really !

Jeff
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:25 AM   #100
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Let me try this again, I think I have it figured out.
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:56 AM   #101
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Jeff:

Now what you really need is a second 709 panel in the utility bay. I found one on eBay for $45, originally $89. I supplied it with all power, ground and sensor information, including LPG from the original wiring for the old system. I did have to send power via an unused wire that I pigtailed from the inside panel.
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:35 PM   #102
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Slideout Awning Replacement

My DS bedroom slideout awning has been a problem when it rains by holding water and causing the slideout to catch when retracting. My searches did not reveal any previous posts concerning slideout awning replacement so here's my successful experience. I ordered a 93 1/4" slideout awning replacement from Tough Top Awnings whose web site is www.rv-motorhome-answers.com. The replacement was $135 with shipping and appears to be slightly thicker & tougher than the original material (as they claim).

The awning removal & installation was quite easy and definitely a DIY project unless you just don't like being on a ladder &/or can't use basic tools. I used 2 - medium to large size screwdrivers and some pliers. You will also have to remount the anti bellowing device possibly requiring new holes (drill + 1/8" bit).

The web site provides a installation instructions which proved to be adequate but with a slight exception. You have to unroll the original awning using screwdrivers in the available end holes. Supposedly, you can stick an ice pick or small phillips screwdriver through one of the holes horizontally to keep the roll from winding back up. Didn't work for me. I used a 2nd screwdriver in one of the holes to wedge against the original mounting braket. The instructions suggest using silicone lubricant in the slots to slide the awning into place - IMPORTANT!

I've order a replacement awning for the PS bedroom slideout which is only $127 since it's smaller. If anyone needs pictures I can provide some when I replace that awning. Just let know.
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Old 09-02-2011, 03:04 PM   #103
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Thanks for the post, Bob. All of us will need this repair at some point. Pictures would be great. I'm sure mine only have another year. If I weren't so lazy, I'd take care of it this year.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:10 AM   #104
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Bob,

Did you find that the heavier material helped with the puddling. I recently installed the same and found that the heavier material exacerbated the problem.

Dale
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Old 09-10-2011, 01:46 PM   #105
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All - According to my manual, the awning has to be removed to have the spring tension increased, which is what is wrong with them. We get puddling on the large awning, not the bedroom ones, I live with it because I don't want to take it down and cause worse problems with any leaks that might occur, when the material falls apart, I will then have it replaced and take a couple of extra turns on the springs to make sure it's always tight. Those springs can break an arm, so if you not familiar with how awning interal parts/operation work, let someone who knows how to fix it do so.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:08 AM   #106
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What started me on changing my awning material, was a rattle in the awning tube. I was told by the mfg to just tighten the springs. I did that first, without removing the whole awning. This did not cure the rattle. I then pulled the springs out, one at a time and installed some vinyl hose to stop the rattle. After installing the new heavier material, even with the tighter spring tension, I found the new awning sags more in the middle than the old one. I will post photos soon. The process was not as bad as I thought it would be, although it is harder on the awnings that were supplied on the aprox '06 and later, with the solid roll cover that mounts to the slide. My solution to the puddling, has been to raise one end of the coach when in the rain. This does not work as well with the new heavier material.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:21 AM   #107
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Dale - I have not tested or experienced a rain episode since installing the new heavier material. I will use a hose and test it when I get the coach home.

I do wish that I had increased the tension by turning the roll 1 or 2 turns when the awning was removed. Turning the roll with screwdrivers is fairly easy but clearly risky if you're not careful. I have ordered new material for the PS slide and will try to increase the tension by 1 - turn when it's replaced. The PS slide awning had not been a problem like the DS slide.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:19 AM   #108
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To change the tension when changing the awning material, 2 people should have no trouble turning the roller tighter after the old material is removed. My method of changing the tension or removing the spring assembly with the awning attached is as follows:
Drill out 3 rivets in mounting rod. Photo shows rivets drilled out and roller pinned with nail.



I taped a 2 X 2 to one end bracket at a time, slid the mounting rod out of the end bracket, while holding the 2 X 2 removed the nail, turned the end bracket 2 - 3 turns tighter, re-pinned, and slid the mounting rod back into place. I did the same to the other end.



To remove and install the awning material, I cut a notch in the drip rail between the front and rear awnings. This is not noticeable after the fact.



After I did the steps above, I wanted to remove the spring assembly, mine was rattling.
I drilled out the 3 rivets that held the end of the roller to the roller tube.



This is the spring assembly. I found the spring loose on the internal rod on the end toward the center of the awning and the spring "support" loose on the rod at the bracket end.



I used some vinyl tubing between the rod and spring at the "center" end.



I used some wire wrap on the other end, the vinyl tubing was too thick for this end.



I hope this is clear, but feel free to ask questions.
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Old 09-12-2011, 02:41 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Refuse1 View Post
Let me try this again, I think I have it figured out.
Thanks. My neck was getting sore.
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Old 09-18-2011, 02:35 PM   #110
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Dale (& whomever) - I replaced the PS bedroom slide awning but forgot to take the camera. This time I had my wide pull the material on while I guided it into the slots. It's still a very easy procedure using 2 - screwdrivers to turn the roll and propping one screwdriver against the mounting rod to hold the roll in place (with tension).

I elected to not add tension by turning the roll since the new material is shorter & stays taught when the slide is open. It seems like turning the roll to add tension could help (if necessary) but may not solve Dale's "noise" problem. Mine seem to be quiet.

I will probably change the living room slide awning next season. It could be harder simply because of it's length.
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Old 12-06-2011, 03:10 PM   #111
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Hi John
I am above 25,000 miles and I am sory to say I don't know what or where the 90 degree 4 ply four inch elbows are . Is it a good idea to have replacement elbows for repare on the road ? Is it better ti simply have them replaced during a regular maintenance visit. Giuld you elaborate hopefully with pictures. Thanks .
Elbows; I am not the mechanic, but a retired trucker and owner of a small fleet. I would reccomend checking these elbows for age cracks during routine service, maybe annually. If they crack or brake, they suck to much air, power failure is terrible, with plenty of smoke. My coach is a 1999 with 72,000, I had better look at mine also.
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:21 PM   #112
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How To Break Into Your Coach

How to break into your coach if the door latch lock will not work or for any other reason you need to gain entry without the keys. I was locked out of my coach. It was the front door latch lock not the deadbolt that was the problem. I had been leaving the window over the couch unlocked just in case this problem ever happened. Well it happened and that window was locked. I am on the outside looking in.

Like someone else, the plastic slider got stuck under the handle and the lock just would not operate. All the windows were locked so this is what I did.

I drilled a 3/32" hole in the driver's window frame 5/16" from the glass and about 3/4" under the latch. I inserted a wire and bent it as I pushed it in. When it got to the bottom of the latch it opened it and I just slide the window open, climbed in and opened the door.
I now have a very small hole and a wire in my Toad and one in the lower bay if this ever happens again.
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