Radiator

[HamboneTHW]

Well, I have confirmed that the radiator is, in fact, leaking. It appears to be coming from the core. I know that this radiator has been replaced, so it’s not the throw away epoxy unit.

Anyone know if this could be repaired? Or will I need a replacement? Has anyone replaced one lately? What was the cost? I hear that Mac’s is the way to go for replacement. I’ve had a hard time getting a quote from them.

Any help and insight is greatly appreciated. To say this isn’t in the budget is an understatement, but if it has to be done, then it is what it is.

Thanks in advance.

[HamboneTHW]

So for anyone experiencing this, or interested in following it, I’ll be posting some periodic updates.

I contacted a reputable RV service shop here in Memphis. They are going to do the “heavy lifting” of the job. After discussing the diagnosis with him, he mentioned a reputable, commercial radiator shop locally. They discussed some options. So my plan of attack is:

1. I have Mac’s out of Portland quoting a replacement.
2. Have the RV shop remove and drain the radiator.
3. Take the radiator to the commercial radiator shop for diagnostic testing (very affordable).
4. After diagnosis, they will be able to tell me if they can repair it, re-core it, or if it should be replaced.
5. While the radiator is out, I’m going to have the solid piping sandblasted and powder coated (needs rehab).
6. Have the RV shop install the repaired, re-cored, or new radiator.

More to follow as this actually unfolds.

[RVPioneer]

There’s one for sale in the classifieds here and on the ACA website, same seller. Asking $4700. Burk Morgan may still have some of the new old stock. 509-961-0996. Don’t know his price. Probably less.

Radiator Supply House in Sweet Home, Oregon may be another option.

May want to consider going to OAT coolant.

[HamboneTHW]

Originally Posted by RVPioneer

There’s one for sale in the classifieds here and on the ACA website, same seller. Asking $4700. Burk Morgan may still have some of the new old stock. 509-961-0996. Don’t know his price. Probably less.

Radiator Supply House in Sweet Home, Oregon may be another option.

May want to consider going to OAT coolant.

Yeah, I saw one listed for that price. That seems really high to me, but still waiting on the quote from Mac’s. I’m hoping and praying that it will just require a solder repair, as it appears to be the core. With that said, from what I can see by crawling under it, it looks like it might be where the core meets the tank. I don’t fully know what that would mean in regard to being repairable. The local radiator shop said diagnostics and diagnosis of the fix required will only be about $50, so I see no issue with exploring that option. One way or the other, it’s got to get fixed.

I have no idea what the price to re-core it would be, but I’d have to imagine significantly less than a whole replacement. The guy I talked to at the radiator shop also mentioned a potential to cap that pass. That worries me about the reduction in cooling capacity of the radiator. Any thoughts on that? Heard of anyone that’s done that?

As always, any advice and insight is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[DrDaveMA]

When you do the replacement be sure the mounts are replaced and installed properly (many were put in upside down).

[HamboneTHW]

I’m assuming they’re in correctly, as the original was replaced.

[AnotherMike]

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

The guy I talked to at the radiator shop also mentioned a potential to cap that pass. That worries me about the reduction in cooling capacity of the radiator. Any thoughts on that? Heard of anyone that’s done that?

My first car (in 1969) was a relatives hand-me-down 1957 Buick.

About 3 months after I got it the water pump failed, and the failure launched the pump impeller forward into the radiator. The fan blades never hit the radiator, but the nose of the fan hub dinged the center of the radiator. It was a vertical tube radiator with three rows of tubes and the two center tubes in the row nearest the water pump were cracked by the impact and were leaking.

I removed the radiator and took it over to the local shop to have it repaired and rodded out. While it was gone I replaced the water pump.

When I picked it up the owner said that rather than recoring the radiator he just plugged both ends of the two damaged tubes since my radiator was in very good shape and the rodding out brought back back a lot more more cooling than sacrificing the two tubes took away. It's been 50 years since this happened, but if memory serves me there were about 30 tubes across the core, so total 90...

He also said that whenever the radiator was replaced to ALWAYS replace the water pump if it's original. And to replace the radiator hoses as the new or rebuilt radiator has so much more flow than the old did that frequently the old hoses fail in the first few months.

And if there are rubber "jumper" hoses on the transmission fluid cooler or lubricating oil cooler in or near the radiator that they should be replaced at the same time.

And there are some other unfortunate situations where you end up using new parts more frequently than necessary... like on the Nissan 300ZX my friend had... you have to remove the water pump and alternator to get to the timing belt, which has to be changed every 60,000 miles.... which means you end up buying a new water pump and a new alternator every 60,000 miles... whether you need one or not.

[HamboneTHW]

I hadn’t heard about the water pump. Did all of you that replaced your radiators replace your water pumps as well?

[AnotherMike]

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

I’m assuming they’re in correctly, as the original was replaced.

Assuming the old one is correct is a BAD idea!

In many cases the newbie technician just installs the new part the same way that the old part came out!

Never assume! Learn enough to be able to catch an installers mistake.

As a simple example, my older RV had the lug nuts on backwards... with the conical side facing out! Fortunately I had worked in a tire store during one summer while in high school... and recognized it.

[HamboneTHW]

Dr. Dave, do you have pictures or drawings of the correct installation of the mounts? I want to make sure I get them to the RV shop. Thanks in advance.

[TMan59]

Macs used to be a good resource a long time ago.
after having my cac replaced there they told me they were surprised I brought the rv in as they really hadn’t worked on one in quite a while. Turns out they just ordered through Source Engineering in Eugene who orders through RV Specialties in Cali.

[jacwjames]

Not sure if CG&J has radiators for Alpine but when I needed one for my Monaco they had the drawings and could make one. I did have drawings to confirm the correct radiator. The cost was ~$2500.
https://www.cgj.com/

They are in Alabama and after order was place shipped it very fast. I dealt with one of the top guys there several time on the phone, very helpful.

Cummins did the change, mine was damaged by road debris and covered under insurance. While it was being repaired I had them do a complete flush and coolant change. Also had water pump replaced. I also had the CAC checked it was bad (leaked like a sieve when air pressure put to it). and had to be repaired, another $1600.

[HamboneTHW]

Tman, I didn’t get that from the guy I spoke to in Engineering there. He explicitly stated that they manufactured them there.

I will look up RV Specialties though. Thanks for the reply!

[rrthor]

Attached is a drawing of the Mac's Radiator replacement