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Old 05-30-2008, 02:08 PM   #15
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I seen a add in Trucker mag.for rads. in the $600 range.It might be worth the call.866-920-2220

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Old 06-03-2008, 09:32 AM   #16
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I now have the slow radiator leak on my 2005. Need opinions as to using a stop leak additive as a short term solution until I get back to the Phoenix area in August/September time frame.

John Neff
2005 34' Alpine
Anthem, AZ
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:41 AM   #17
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Before that, and if you can reach the area of the leak, I'd take a run at a JB-Weld repair. First fully dry the break, then clean the area w/fine sandpaper, then "wet" the area & 3/8" around w/fresh JB-Weld and add a piece of Tyvek fabric & mash it onto the wetted area, then build up JB-Weld on top for a 1/8" thickness. This can always be buffed off, and if it doesn't work you can try other repairs up to & including buying a new radiator. My $.02.
Baja-tested '08 2-slide 36'
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:56 AM   #18
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Mike and John.
Normal problem is aluminium core tubes crack and pull koose from end tanks because of contraction and expansion of aluminium. Impossible to get at to try to repair. I think the replacement radiator from Radiator specialities is still aluminium. if your going to keep coach the couple of hundred more for a copper/brass core and steel tanks is a no brainer. Good luck. Larry
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:09 PM   #19
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I know in the days of old we just used a can of Barr's stop leak and it generally fixed everything. Is that a ridiculous suggestion in this case?
Ted & Carol Ulmer
2005 Alpine 34', 34FDDS
2006 PT Turbo pusher
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:15 PM   #20
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Every mechanic I've spoken with has been against the use of a product like Barrs stop leak. They say the stuff really gums up the system. Believe it or not I has a radiator guy recommend regular black pepper (ground of course) for a short term repair of a small leak. Seems the flakes find the hole and stop it up without getting all over the system.
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Fremont, California
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Old 06-03-2008, 02:34 PM   #21
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Larry- In this case the OEM radiator used for a string of coaches has a design defect IIRC where a mounting bracket weld hits the aluminum tank. So the leak isn't in the tank/tube seal or in a tube. Coaches w/that defect have had a fairly reliable failure around 10,000 miles plus or minus and Radiator Specialties has done a lousy job of stepping up.
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Old 06-03-2008, 02:58 PM   #22
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Did WRV send something out to the owners telling them about this defect? Did WRV pick up the repair/replacement tab? Or did you have to return to the factory for repair or go to a ralley?
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:06 PM   #23
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I don't think WRV picked up too many radiator tabs. They relied on the Radiator Specialties, which warranted the radiator for 1 year from the date of manufacture of the radiator. WRV's warranty is well-enough written that it excludes the radiator warranty beyond that specified by Radiator Specialties. This is the bad news; for me it was good news since it forced my extended warranty to cover the $2900 or so of replacement cost, less my deductible.

WRV did not send anything to me on this defect; we just learned from watching the forum that it was common on radiators of similar '05/06 coach vintage.

And, I received a lot of feedback from Cummins and WRV to not put any kind of stopleak, including Barr's, in the radiator because of potential issues with the engine coolant porting.

I actually think Radiator Specialties new designs, with the rubber bushing mounts, will help alleviate the radiator issue, but if I had to pay for it myself I would have a non-aluminum radiator built.
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:24 PM   #24
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The radiator leak is caused from the core's being epoxied to the tanks. The new raditor's have the core's welded to the tanks. The fibration is just too much for the epoxy. I don't think adding Bars leak would do much unless you added about a gallon and that much would surely muck the system up. The best way to get by with a leaking radiator for a while is to loosen the radiator cap to stop the system from building pressure and then checking the fluid level often.
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:00 PM   #25
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When we had this problem we were able to run for several months before the new radiator was built and shipped to the repair facility. We exchanged the cap for one with lower pressure and that helped considerably to slow and almost stop the leak.

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