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Old 06-09-2011, 11:08 PM   #15
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All - for those who have fixed the radiator and know the process please comment on my question or PM me with the answer.
Q - Does the factory radiator on the top have the rubber bushings or is this only on the bottom "threaded rod" support structure? If the top has the rubber bushings, is taking the side grill off going to give me the access to put them on? If you have pictures of the upper support structure please post or send them to me. In another post concerning the radiator, I can get the rubber bushings from Six Robles in Oregon cheaper and they are the same thing other places charge a lot for. I want to try to stop the issue before I have problems, or at least postpone it to a later date. Currently our 07 does not have any bushings on the lower support arms. Nor do we have any leaks (knock on wood).
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Old 06-11-2011, 01:25 PM   #16
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Monty,

The bushings are on the lower support bolts, at least they were in the replacement radiator I got from WRV on the day they closed.
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Old 06-11-2011, 09:45 PM   #17
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OF, should I assume that there are two of them on each threaded rod, one on the inside and one on the outside of the bracket welded to the radiator?
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Old 06-12-2011, 12:11 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Rv'er View Post
OF, should I assume that there are two of them on each threaded rod, one on the inside and one on the outside of the bracket welded to the radiator?
With advice from Birddog Pilot (Dick Bunting), I installed large bushings on my 2006 Alpine Coach. The bushings go on each side of the radiator tab that the out-board end of the two lower all-threads attach to. No bushings are needed on the inboard (frame-attached) end of the all-threads. So, you need a total of 4 bushings.

For $1.63 each, the bushings (part # B1001, 2-1/2" Round Rubber Bushings) can be ordered from:

Six Robbles' Inc. (truck/off road shop)
275 N. Seneca Road
Eugene, OR 97402
800-222-7874

Since the bushings are 2-7/16" in diameter, I used 3 different washers with J-B Weld to hold them together to achieve a 2-1/2" diameter on the largest washer with a 1/2" hole on the smallest washer to accommodate the 1/2" all-thread.

Since the large washer is 2-1/2" and the bushing is 2-7/16", there is 1/16" overage. At Home Depot, they have hardened washers in the 3 sizes I used that make this possible. You will find them in the special hardware drawers in the Fasteners Section. I installed new, slightly longer all-threads so that there was sufficient room for the added space taken up by the outside bushing.

Assuming your coach is on level ground, I suggest attaching the new all-thread to the frame mount first and let the radiator "free-float" to its natural un-preloaded position so that there is no un-due stress on the radiator tab. Once the radiator is free-floating, then attach the radiator end of the all-thread without creating any preload.

See attached pictures for the rear all-thread arrangement. The front all-thread works in the same manner.
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Old 06-12-2011, 02:04 AM   #19
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Thank you Dale, I will call the Portland Store on Monday and get the bushings. I then will see if I can get some large washers to do it without have three on a side. That way hopefully I don't have to change the all thread, if I do, the I will. I copied the article and save it in word, so I have the references and pictures to guide me. This maybe should be posted on the ACA Library section under radiator shock supporting.
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:13 AM   #20
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Thanks for the pictures Dale. I copied them too, and I will follow up on this modification.

My understanding, though, is that the radiator aluminum core is not strong enough for its span, sags, and that's what causes the leaks. What, then, do the bushings accomplish (besides being a good idea anyway) in preventing the weight-caused leaks?
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Old 06-12-2011, 12:11 PM   #21
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J & L,

From my experiences with developing some custom engine mountings in cars, the rubber bushings will absorb the up & down jarring pressure while driving which avoids those pressures being applied to the object being mounted. In this case, the radiator is somewhat protected from having to absorb those pressures and thus any associated fatigue on the aluminum that causes a leak.
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:26 PM   #22
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Radiator Supply House of Sweet Home, Oregon - Radiators, Coolers, Condensers Try these folks, /they are located within 40 miles of Coburg Or where all the RV activity is located. A nice family run company that will convert your aluminum to a copper core with steel bolt on tanks. I recently replaced mine. There price is very reasonable. They wont install it however. Now for the tough part. The cooling systems really consist of at least four parts. The radiator to cool the engine, the charge air cooler to cool the turbocharged air, the transmission cooler usually integrated with the radiator and the hydraulic fluid to air cooler. All of these components have to be removed to get at the radiator. It cost us nearly $2000 to remove and replace.
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:41 PM   #23
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Not a but price. I paid, on a CAT 3126, $1500 for a new radiator and $1800.00 for the removal and reinstall.
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:25 AM   #24
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Alongside those parts, don't forget about the A/C condenser it's in there someplace too, so 5 parts make up the cooling system components, all told if I'm not mistaken. I am very mechanically inclined, but don't know if (as good as I am) would/could take on this removal and replacement project without knowing one heck of a lot more than I do now. I am hoping we don't ever have to go there and do this job, thank you for the informaton.
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:38 AM   #25
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Quote:
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Alongside those parts, don't forget about the A/C condenser it's in there someplace too, so 5 parts make up the cooling system components, all told if I'm not mistaken. I am very mechanically inclined, but don't know if (as good as I am) would/could take on this removal and replacement project without knowing one heck of a lot more than I do now. I am hoping we don't ever have to go there and do this job, thank you for the informaton.
When ours was replaced under warranty by Massey Diesel in Phoenix back in March 2007, WRV sent all the stack including the A/C condenser. She was able to do the replacement without removing the A/C condenser. Yep, our mechanic was a woman and very good. She did Gale Johnson's coach also.
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Old 06-25-2011, 06:42 PM   #26
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Post #8 in this thread has a picturesque photo of the stereotypical leak.

Also the earlier discussion doesn't seem to revolve around sagging core elements as the problem. More like faulty tank/mount design, which appears to be the focus in the redesigned OEM radiator as evident in post #5 here. The original flaky lower mount is partially visible in the first link (skinny, maybe 1/8" flange @ 90 to tank face), showing the thin mount tab vs the substantially beefed up bracket in the second link, that also shows the new rubber bushings. IIRC the squawk at the time discussion on this was during the thick of radiator failures, was that tank welds were cracking due to vibration fatigue.
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Old 06-25-2011, 07:58 PM   #27
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Post #8 in this thread has a picturesque photo of the stereotypical leak.

Also the earlier discussion doesn't seem to revolve around sagging core elements as the problem. More like faulty tank/mount design, which appears to be the focus in the redesigned OEM radiator as evident in post #5 here. The original flaky lower mount is partially visible in the first link (skinny, maybe 1/8" flange @ 90 to tank face), showing the thin mount tab vs the substantially beefed up bracket in the second link, that also shows the new rubber bushings. IIRC the squawk at the time discussion on this was during the thick of radiator failures, was that tank welds were cracking due to vibration fatigue.
EM,
Is there a retrofit redesign that you engineer types can conjure up to beef up the mounts BEFORE the radiator develops a leak as a preventive measure (similar to the steering box kit that strengthens the bracket before there is a catastrophic failure)? Hint, hint.
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:26 PM   #28
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To clear up my confusion, in the EM post above, the first link is showing the leak, but if I understand him correctly, the bottom of the radiator is at the top of the picture, so it's upside down. I think in my case, I have the redesigned radiator, but no rubber bushings. Six Rubblees was supposed to have them yesterday in stock in Portland, I forgot to call them. Monday it into Allison for the filter change-analysis of the fluid, and flush brakes system. I will call them while waiting for the coach.
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