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Old 10-20-2010, 02:23 AM   #29
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Oh and a big OH - Read the related post about changing this alternator.

A VERY LARGE THANK YOU goes out to Tris & Carolyn Swan for answering the phone every time I called them asking questions, and answering e-mails about what and how and everything else. I feel like they are family now because we have "talked so much" over the last few days concerning this alternator. It's now done, and please read my story on how it was done. It helps to have a second pair of hands for the reasons listed in the post. Engineer Mike Also deserves a LARGE THANK YOU, as I also called him over a few rough spots like the coach engine would not shut off after I did this job, but before he could call me back, I thought over what I had done, and then removed the white IGN wire and it stopped running like it should when you turn off the key.

So thank you all for your assistance.

Oh if any one needs a Leece Neville alternator for extra weight, I have one in the garage, and I'm not too sure what I should do with it, as no core on the new one. Maybe a rebuild shop would pay me some money for it, any serious ideas?
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:39 PM   #30
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Delco Remy 28Si alternator

Swansnest, I have the same issue with a 28si that I had install on my unit after my L/N went out. My unit has the DUVAC system. The guy that installed it thought was a direct install, but after install, it would shut off via the ignition switch. Also the alternator was warm to touch after sitting all night and everything else has cooled down. What was your fix for this.


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Originally Posted by swansnest View Post
Leese Neville warranty was 1 year. If you will go to Delco Remy website ( http://www.delcoremy.com/Documents/B...-Brochure.aspx) you will see that the 28SI is technologically far superior to the Leece Neville.

One thing we learned through our experience - the alternator can cause the batteries to discharge when parked! You need to check if the alernator is warm to touch hours after everything has cooled down.

We even found a significant increase in performance after we installed the DR 28SI.
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:55 PM   #31
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Old Rv'er. Can you please give me the instructions on how you install the 28si. I had one install and the engine wouldn't stop running via the key and it was still warm after sitting overnight and everything else was cool. I removed it because I didn't know what was going on with it and spent the money on a new L/N. Still have the brand new 28si and if I know how to install it, I will keep it a my spare and not sell it. Thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Rv'er View Post
Oh and a big OH - Read the related post about changing this alternator.

A VERY LARGE THANK YOU goes out to Tris & Carolyn Swan for answering the phone every time I called them asking questions, and answering e-mails about what and how and everything else. I feel like they are family now because we have "talked so much" over the last few days concerning this alternator. It's now done, and please read my story on how it was done. It helps to have a second pair of hands for the reasons listed in the post. Engineer Mike Also deserves a LARGE THANK YOU, as I also called him over a few rough spots like the coach engine would not shut off after I did this job, but before he could call me back, I thought over what I had done, and then removed the white IGN wire and it stopped running like it should when you turn off the key.

So thank you all for your assistance.

Oh if any one needs a Leece Neville alternator for extra weight, I have one in the garage, and I'm not too sure what I should do with it, as no core on the new one. Maybe a rebuild shop would pay me some money for it, any serious ideas?
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Old 05-12-2016, 11:39 PM   #32
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Ok, have had limited internet for a while now, so just got this one. If you have not read all of my large post, do so now, it fully explains what needs to be done to get the 28si to work. I have had it in since 2010, and it never has given me any trouble. I can send you my post as a word document if you need it, but I will need an e-mail address. Here is paragraph 14 of the original post, suspect you got one of the little wires mixed up.

"Turn on the master switches and start the coach. Have someone at the rear of the coach but well back of the engine look over the moving stuff, and looking for smoke, or any strange noise. Turn off the coach and make sure the engine stops running, if it does you are done, if it does not, and you did not attach the white wire, turn off the master switches this will stop the engine, then disconnect the negative battery terminal again. Now attach the white wire to the IGN Terminal on the alternator, reattach the negative battery cable, turn on the master switch and try it again, if the key turns off the engine you are really done. It’s possible you have the little red and white wires reversed, make sure that the #6 RED Wire is on the BATT terminal, just next to that one is where the little red wire should go, if it’s white, you have them reversed. If after all this, it still will not cut off - call Delco Remy and ask their tech support what is going on, you will need to stop the engine using the master switches again."

Follow that advice and it should work fine.
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:25 AM   #33
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Smile

Chillwill - Sorry I didn't answer you because I just now got notice of your post but it looks like Monty has answered your questions very well and you can rest assured he is correct.

We never had any problem with the Delco Remey after Rincon (in San Clemente, CA) installed it. The white wire was not hooked up on ours and they ran an extra wire from the battery compartment to the Alternator because they didn't think it was getting the correct current. We have never had a bit of trouble from this D/R in over 7 years now.

I would like to suggest that you go in and add what your Alpine is and what year it is. It can make a huge difference in getting the correct answers and help!
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:28 PM   #34
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Had a brief conversation with Ron from [QualityPowerAuto.com][mentioned in a similar thread]. For what it is worth, he sent me the flowing data on the D/R alternator vs the L/N model. He agreed that the D/R was a technically superior alternator and based on the attached pic, suggested that the two were "inter-changeable" with few / any mods..
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 28SI Wiring Diagram.pdf (177.1 KB, 38 views)
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Old 05-14-2016, 04:32 PM   #35
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Thank you so much for your assistance

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Rv'er View Post
Ok, have had limited internet for a while now, so just got this one. If you have not read all of my large post, do so now, it fully explains what needs to be done to get the 28si to work. I have had it in since 2010, and it never has given me any trouble. I can send you my post as a word document if you need it, but I will need an e-mail address. Here is paragraph 14 of the original post, suspect you got one of the little wires mixed up.

"Turn on the master switches and start the coach. Have someone at the rear of the coach but well back of the engine look over the moving stuff, and looking for smoke, or any strange noise. Turn off the coach and make sure the engine stops running, if it does you are done, if it does not, and you did not attach the white wire, turn off the master switches this will stop the engine, then disconnect the negative battery terminal again. Now attach the white wire to the IGN Terminal on the alternator, reattach the negative battery cable, turn on the master switch and try it again, if the key turns off the engine you are really done. Itís possible you have the little red and white wires reversed, make sure that the #6 RED Wire is on the BATT terminal, just next to that one is where the little red wire should go, if itís white, you have them reversed. If after all this, it still will not cut off - call Delco Remy and ask their tech support what is going on, you will need to stop the engine using the master switches again."

Follow that advice and it should work fine.
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