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Old 02-02-2010, 11:51 AM   #15
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Ken T. I don't now what basis the Kill A Watt unit is setup to determine amps, watts etc. 25 amps 12 volt seems a little high for 4 small bulbs. The Kill A Watt unit is one of those "As Seen on TV" gimmicks. I got mine at HF.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne R View Post
Ken T. I don't now what basis the Kill A Watt unit is setup to determine amps, watts etc. 25 amps 12 volt seems a little high for 4 small bulbs. The Kill A Watt unit is one of those "As Seen on TV" gimmicks. I got mine at HF.

Don't know if I'd call it a "gimmick"?? My parents had an energy audit done by the local power company at their stick house and it included giving them a Kill A Watt unit so they could actually see where power was really being used. Of course, they won't ever get around to using it, so I "borrowed" it . . . once it warms up, I'll test and see how much power I'm using in the RV.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:24 PM   #17
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Ken-55, The Kill A Watt seems to be consistent. I just don't know how accurate it is. If the proper multiplier for a 12v-120v inverter is 10:1. 25 amps seems really high for (4) 40 watt bulbs.
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:43 PM   #18
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Volts X Amps = Watts

Therefore, (4) 40 watt bulbs at 120 volts would need a little over 1 amp of current. (160 W / 120 V = 1.33 A). It would take 13.3 amps at 12 volts to provide that same wattage, plus whatever efficiency factor you need to add for the inverter.

25 amps at 12 volts would be high for (4) 40 watt bulbs, but not totally out of line depending on what other circuitry might be drawing some power in addition to the bulbs and the efficiency of the inverter.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:46 PM   #19
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I know it seems High. The compressor was out of the circuit when I checked it so not sure what else would have been drawing power. It was just an observation. With out looking up electricity 101 I figured someone would jump in. Thanks Jim A.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:10 AM   #20
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I don't know anything about electricity, but here is how I boondock with my 20+cuft residential refrig...
  1. Fill numerous 1/2 and 1 gal milk jugs with water and freeze at stick home, insert frozen jugs into freezer and refrigerator. (turn the refrig into an "ice-box")
  2. Freeze steaks and chicken and put those in freezer, move them to refrig to thaw
  3. Frozen veggies in freezer
  4. Turn off refrigerator and icemaker when not on AC power (shore, generator, or running down the road)

My experience is that:
  • Freezer stays below 30*F for at least 10 hours
  • Refrig stays below 40*F for at least 10 hours
  • Nothing frozen thaws (ice cream is an exception, but I like to make it fresh so I don't keep commercial IC in the freezer)
  • My AGS doesn't kick in and I only run the genny for 1-2 hours a day

As always YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary)

PS...by the way, the compressors on most 110V refrigerators don't like "modified sine wave" AC power....."true sine" AC is what will keep your compressor happy....(Ask me how I know)
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:11 AM   #21
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Mythplace, never would use anything but pure sine wave. Mine has always had a pure sine wave. I upgraded my 2000 Alpine to a pure sine wave after a couple of my wifes prize appliances burnt control boards out.
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:52 AM   #22
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This is really a great conversation on inverter use and 12 volt power mgt--this topic has generated [no pun intended] many threads on the forum. I switched out the old Heart [mod-sine wave] on our 2003 MDSD [resid frig] 3 years ago. Our experiences have been mostly positive. However, with the improved monitoring capabilities of the RS2000, I was shocked to find the RS2000 consumes more than 150 DC watts just to hum--no load. Add in the frig. and all the parasitic draws [microwave, audio/visual, etc] overnight [7-8 hrs] and the total adds up.
Tried using the load sense function on the RS2000 but this function does not like the aforementioned parasitic draws or the defrost cycle on the Amana Frig. With 6 good house bats, minimal use of the propane furnance, and the RS2000 left on, we manage to do fine over night with about 4 hours generator time [2 morning/2 night] each day.
Using a more efficient/smaller inverter for the frig is interesting--but not sure how to right-size the inverter to accommodate the initial compressor start-up and the daily defrost cycle. PS--the defrost cycle on our 2003 Amana is a manual timer [red knob by the evap tray]. Not aware of how to disable the defrost cycle, except to some how physically turn the knob past the cycle each day.
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:14 AM   #23
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Old Scout, my Amman has what they call an adaptive defrost module (small circuit board). It is easy to get to. I had bought a spare thinking mine was bad. The little research I had done looked as though the green wire could be cut and routed to a switch mounted to the same enclosure as the circuit board. I believe but could be wrong. Tiffin came up with a small inverter to run the refer shortly after they started putting in the residential refrigerator. I believe they did this after having several failures of the control boards in the Amman when it was run off of the main inverter. My recollection is 1000-1200 watts. It was small enough that it probably did not need a dedicated cooling fan and contained no battery charging circuitry.

I will run a small test and see if my Honda 1000 watt generator will run just the refer. I know it wont run my power stapler or chop saw. It may require one of the supper start capacitors.
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