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Old 05-11-2008, 08:56 PM   #15
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Found it during the dealer PDI, show and tell. He showed and told, would have been better, if I did and he instructed me to do it, would have remembered it better. Oh well, best way to learn is to just figure it out.
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Old 05-13-2008, 10:58 AM   #16
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Found it as I mentioned, but it's like a radiator drain, you screw it out to close, and screw it in to have water. Sprayed water all over the floor until I quit pushing the little handle thing, made a mess. It's off now.
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Old 05-13-2008, 10:30 PM   #17
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We use the refrigerator bars from Camping World both for holding the contents on the shelves and also for holding the doors closed during travel.

With the slides closed, the bars go between the fridge doors and the cabinet across the aisle (only about 18"). I put them up high and can easily duck under to go back to the rear of the coach.

Sure beats having to clean up spaghetti sauce and wine after a sharp right turn! Just for kicks, I cleaned both up again only 50 miles later, but this time had to include the broken bottles, too!
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Old 05-14-2008, 06:13 AM   #18
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Well the smaller spring loaded curtain hold backs at Wal-Mart (god I hate shopping at that store), do the shelves, and the Velcro strap has not allowed the doors to open at all, keeps them tightly closed. You idea is however a very good one, and if the above fails me I will try your solution.
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Old 05-18-2008, 10:40 PM   #19
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Big Jimbo, sorry for the delay I have not checked the forum for a while. I just got back from the NorCal rally at 49ers park in Plymouth, CA and put the coach in storage until next weekend, can only park for 72 hours on street here. I will post a picture next weekend after it pick it up.

The bracket is about 3" long and about 2" wide shaped in an upside down U. I slip it over the handles (really "pulls") at the top of the doors and it holds them closed, they could only open about 1/8" when it is installed, but the other door holds them both closed. Before I got one from WRV, the techs at Guaranty made me one out of fiberglass body spatulas with pop rivets in each corner to hold it. Since using the bracket, "Fenway" has not gotten a plate of spagetti.

I have also heard of folks using a Velco strap (like they sell to untangle extension cords at your local Home Depot/Lowe's/Ace) if you have the handles that have a hole through them.
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:55 AM   #20
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We bought a matching stainless steel pocket door latch that looks good and works well as a fridge lock from Northwest RV Supply in Eugene, OR. 1-866-6RV SHOP. Ask for a fridge lock and they will know what you want.

Fridge latch 1

Fridge latch 2
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:17 PM   #21
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Dave and Basil,

Thanks to both of you.

Dave, I am looking forward to seeing the pictures.

Basil, Do you remember the price?

I have been using both a Velcro strap and a ball type of bungee cord and still have had problems with the doors coming part way open on the road, and even all the way once.

Thanks again for your help guys.
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:58 AM   #22
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After two spills we made a bracket out of wood. If you are handy with a band saw you can do it easy. It is the same depth as the handel,about 5 inch long and the cut out is the same as the handle doors. The plastic one that WRV sent us worked, but this is more snug.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:12 PM   #23
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Hello All,
Well we purchased at Sears some of those spring shelf brackets, and velcro straped the door. We went to Kalispell, MT and back to Vancouver, WA, and the door never came open one time. Nothing Spilled, in fact, we love this refer, it's great. The four bolts holding it down however, were loose, and would not tighten up all the way, nor, is there it seems any way to get to them under the box, so they can be held while tighting the torx heads below. Tightened them the best I could, and will put this on my monthly check off list to do. It's starting to get way to long now.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:43 AM   #24
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Old RV'r

The 4 bolts holding the refer in place are just tapped into the frame. If one strips you can go to the next size bolt by running the appropriate tap through it.
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:18 AM   #25
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I had a problem with the floor under our Amana fridge. From all the ups and down's it cracked and weakend. We had to shore it up with a metal plate. We became aware of the problem when Amana came out for a service call. Prior to that the tile had cracked infront of the fridge to which I paid no attention. Probably an isolated instance but its FYI.

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Old 05-28-2008, 05:02 PM   #26
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Wayne R - Your comment cannot be correct for my coach, First you cannot get to the bolts from the refer side, you must tighten them from the Smartbed below the fridge. Second, they tighten up, but not all the way, it's like the nut on the end of the bolt is turning, and their is no way to gain access to the nuts to put a wrench on them to hold. Yours must be different.
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:22 PM   #27
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Our fridge bolts are not attached through the bottom of the floor, they are attached to a piece of 3/4" plywood which is attached to another piece of plywood along the back of the fridge against the wall. The bolts can't be reached to be tightened unless we slide the fridge out from the wall but it still has a tendancy to slide away from the board along the wall. To stop this from happening we had to attach 2 flat brackets on the top of the fridge frame and attach it to the wooden frame across the top of the fridge. When the doors are closed you cannot see these brackets but they are visible when the door is open. To keep the door from coming open during travel WRV manufactured 2 flat plates and installed them on the bottom of the fridge door and the top of the freezer drawer, when we're in motion we have a pin that we put through holes in the flat bracket plates. My guess it was an afterthought item because of the opening door problems. If you forget to put the pin in the bracket and lose a full liter glass bottle of pre-made margaritas as you turn a corner you learn a hard lesson and find a way to ALWAYS remember the pin.
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