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Old 06-03-2009, 09:16 AM   #15
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Basil,

Good Idea! I will probably leave it like it is. I only plan on using it during on short stops at low pressure parks for a fast fill. If I change my usage then I would definitely change to use suggestion.
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:44 AM   #16
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As Dale said, I am going to replace the check valve with a ball valve. We are in Quincy WA so I had to order the valve. Sould be in Friday and I will let you know next week how it works.
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:00 PM   #17
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I'm guessing that owners who install the booster pump will find it wonderfully handy, and use it for more than just low pressure situations.

The pump I have is: SHURflo 8005-932-260, 115V, 0.7A, 1.4gpm, Pressure Setting: BYPASS.

You can see the bypass valve for the pump immediately above the pump, and the bypass valve for the (in my case semi) automatic solenoid valve above and to the right, and the solenoid valve above that. The black box w/red LED is the semi-automatic RO control. I can hook to city water & use bypass valve to fill tank, or w/bypass set to tank, city water puts pressure on canister filters and the above manifold. Water goes to the RO membrane when I push the red button or turn the upper solenoid bypass valve to open.
In the example photo the upper bypass valve is shut so no water is passing unless I activate the solenoid w/the black box wizardry. And the lower bypass is open to bypass the booster pump & make RO water off city pressure. Any time I'm making water I can shut the lower bypass & plug in the pump to get 20+gpm RO water to the tank.
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:08 PM   #18
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Dale,

You described exactly what happens to me while driving if the pump is on! The Silverleaf sets the system to autofill "on" and the fresh water fills up the sewer hose. First time it happened, I was surprised and did not have any idea what happened other than it blew the hose off the end of the fitting (hose was in very bad condition from the start, wish I had extended it the entire length at Guaranty when we did our walkthru) so I ended up replacing it for about $150.00. Now I double check that the pump is always off before driving, but I am interested in the changes that Lyle and Cath have made to their system. I am confident that once I make those changes and install the booster pump, I will have a very effective system.
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:23 PM   #19
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WeBrzn2,

I will draw up a diagram when I get a chance. It will probably be good for all Apex's. If I forget how it is plumbed before I draw it, I did a rough diagram for Lyle and Cathy, and can get it from them. I feel the Apex plumbing, in that area, leaves something to be desired, but with the valve added, it should work just fine.
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:27 PM   #20
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Whether the system is automatic by Silverleaf or automatic by float switch, the situation or a version of it that WeBrzn describes is why I went semi-auto. I have to initiate a tank fill by pushing a button, so I also have to consider where the reject water is going, and whether I need to do something about it.
The auto-systems assume (but don't really know if) you are hooked up to water & waste in a way that won't cause issues. Frank @ Vagabond made up the semi-auto control box for me with the push button instead of the lower float switch; otherwise mine stops when the upper float switch shuts off the input solenoid like any of the auto systems.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:09 AM   #21
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Talking

Mike- from the looks of that last photo you have taken "Waterworks" to new heights!
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:35 AM   #22
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I replaced the check valve with a ball valve and prelimenary tests reveal success. I am getting no bleed through or back flow from city water. I will empty the ro water and refill and see if I get any more water spots.
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:09 PM   #23
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OK guys,

I designed the RO system for simplicity of operation. Pumps are usually noisy and require extra controls, so I opted out for pumps. I don't think many Alpine owners have the technical skills demonstrated by Dale and E-Mike. That said, pumps are way cool. The membranes are rated at 107 psi - so that's their most efficient pressure. Because the pumps "boost pressure", it's important to have a way to regulate the pressure so that it doesn't exceed the rated membrane pressure.

A BIG point here is that the waste flow needs to be about two to one - so when you use the pump, you MUST be aware of the waste flow and maintain the correct ratio to keep the membranes from getting fouled.

If it were up to me, I would prefer to use the pump full time and operate it thru a relay so that it would be automatically controlled with the float system. I would use a pressure regulator to insure I didn't exceed the rated pressure of 107 psi.

No question that a pump will get you the extra performance of a second membrane. Second membranes are for the majority - pumps are for the technically blessed.
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Old 06-21-2009, 08:24 PM   #24
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I feel blessed.

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Old 06-21-2009, 10:55 PM   #25
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And well you should!!!!!!!!!!
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