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Old 10-11-2008, 04:51 PM   #1
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On our new 08/09 Alpine 40MDTS the 'new' front cap seems to have a leak.
It looks like they used a gray plumber's putty as a sealant between the Cap & Roof, which the putty like substance developed some cracks in it.

Question: Has anyone used LEXEL for a roof sealant or what might be better?

Thank You
Rick

Thanks for responses so far. - I was wondering if there were other recommendations?
I've used Lexel in the past for other things - I find it does what it claims it will do:
See LEXEL web page for information.
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Old 10-11-2008, 04:51 PM   #2
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On our new 08/09 Alpine 40MDTS the 'new' front cap seems to have a leak.
It looks like they used a gray plumber's putty as a sealant between the Cap & Roof, which the putty like substance developed some cracks in it.

Question: Has anyone used LEXEL for a roof sealant or what might be better?

Thank You
Rick

Thanks for responses so far. - I was wondering if there were other recommendations?
I've used Lexel in the past for other things - I find it does what it claims it will do:
See LEXEL web page for information.
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Old 10-11-2008, 10:07 PM   #3
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I suggest caution in a DIY re-sealing while your unit is under factory warranty. Butyl caulk is grey, and usually lasts for many years without issues. I've never heard of that product you mentioned.
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Old 10-11-2008, 10:27 PM   #4
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Since WRV has gone out of business, there is no longer any factory warranty period. So, check with a few of the dealers who sold them to see what they say, of course they will want to repair it for you for $$$$$, but that might not be so bad. You might also make sure the leak is not the front clearance lights, since they were never very water tight in the first place. Mine leaked when we picked up the coach, they were resealed with silcone caulk and have been fine since that.
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Old 10-12-2008, 08:56 AM   #5
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Dicor is what is recommended by most manufacturers for installing their equipment on the roof.

Dicor Sealant @ CW

This is only good on the roof (level area) due to its self-leveling properties. Make sure that any loose old sealant is removed and clean the area good before installing new sealant.
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Old 10-12-2008, 09:08 AM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by dgerstel:
Dicor is what is recommended by most manufacturers for installing their equipment on the roof.

Dicor Sealant @ CW

This is only good on the roof (level area) due to its self-leveling properties. Make sure that any loose old sealant is removed and clean the area good before installing new sealant. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Dale - I knew you might have a good idea!
But the Front Cap is about 1/2" higher than the roof - wouldn't the self leveling run off the cap and not seal?
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Old 10-12-2008, 09:32 AM   #7
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Rick,

It doesn't puddle that much. I have used on both of my coaches on that area.
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Old 10-12-2008, 11:57 AM   #8
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If it was mine, I would want a strip of Eternabond tape across the joint, then think about self-leveling caulk over the edges of the tape. Mine is sealed that way and it gives much peace of mind. HarveyP
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Old 10-12-2008, 01:24 PM   #9
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I found this website a while back, and I think it is good information. Even if you already have a favorite caulking material you prefer to use, it gives some insight on how to properly seal RV joints. Not just adding caulking to try and fix something that was not properly sealed to start with.

And it talkes about the Eternabond tape referenced above. I used it on my roof vents.

http://www.bestmaterials.com/Handlin...re_in_RVs.aspx
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Old 10-12-2008, 02:48 PM   #10
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Look at XM anteena base mounted on top of cap. It my need to be sealed.
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Old 10-13-2008, 09:29 PM   #11
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Jim A:

What a great source of info on RV leaks. I'll be checking over a few things myself.

Thanks!
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Old 10-14-2008, 05:09 PM   #12
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I concur with that; I will surely bookmark that site. As always you guys and IRV2 is a great source of information.
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:27 AM   #13
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I would hesitate to use Lexel, just because, like the plumber's putty it's such a pain to remove if you have a recurring leak later down the line.
I second the Eternabond tape recommendation. I've used it to patch two seam leaks that have held for 6+ years now, but before you put on the Eternabond, I would def take out as much of the plumber's putty as possible. Utility knife and then sand paper. Clean the area really really well and then lay down the Eternabond tape. You can get more detailed instructions at here: Ebay is probably the cheapest place to get a roll. Good Luck!
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:50 PM   #14
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I would clean the joint well with a stiff brush and get al of the loose stuff up. Then apply a strip of Eternabond. No more leak from the joint.

Ken
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