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Old 06-21-2013, 07:12 PM   #15
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I had the same problem, but it was only the aft a/c unit that was dead. Checked all breakers, fuses and wiring (including phone jack wiring from digital thermostat), everything was okay. All other functions controlled by the thermostat; forward a/c, forward heat pump, forward fans and HydroHot (both zones) all operated normally.

When all else fails check the manual. The Duo-Therm Comfort Control thermostat "User's Guide" is of no use, but if your a/c's are the Dometic Duo-Therm models 620515, 620525, or 620526 check page 10 of that manual and you will find a System Reset procedure that worked for me. We'll have to assume that your "dip switches" are properly configured, mine were, that is the first step.
1. Turn the ON/OFF switch to OFF
2. Simultaneously depress and hold the MODE and ZONE push-buttons while turning the OFF/ON switch to ON.
3. FF should display in the LCD dispay until the mode and zone push-buttons are released.

My aft a/c unit had been operating normally but hadn't been started for several weeks; this reset procedure brought it back to life and it has worked properly for the last month or so during this trip.
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:59 PM   #16
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A lot of speculation IF you have a Duo Therm system. If you do, its a sure bet if the tstat "sees" the 2 ACs, you have 12v power and a connection to the AC controller boards. It certainly wouldn't hurt to reset the tstat to rescan the system. To do this, turn tstat to OFF. Hold the top and bottom buttons down, while turning the tstat back ON. This will rescan the system to make sure all systems are available to the tstat.

Once this is done and confirmed, you can rule out any 12v power problems or connections problems between the tstat and the AC units.

12v power is provided by zone 1 to the tstat via a data cable, previously described as a "phone line" (but not the same as it is wired in series, not parallel). From there, another data cable runs from zone 1 to zone 2 to complete the connection to both zones to the tstat. Beyond that, refer to my previous post.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:23 AM   #17
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Right you are.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:09 PM   #18
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Simple fix - no troubleshooting required. My previous Titanium roof A/C would never start after winter storage. Solution - get on the roof with a screwdriver, a can of WD-40 and a pair of channel locks. Remove the cover, grab the shaft between the motor and the fan with channel locks, rotate the shaft a few times and WD-40 everything. A/C would work for the rest of the summer. Next spring, repeat the process.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:01 PM   #19
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Thumbs up

Thanks All for feedback. I was able to get the rear a/c started and worked on both fan and cool. It however, didn't blow cool air and I had tstat set in low 70's. Am concerned the system freon may have leaked out during winter as both a/c's worked last fall while on generator and 50 amp shore power.
Cylon51 as per your question about the tstat it is a RV Comfort. ZC. Don't know if that answers your questions. I did try your suggestion on the front a/c but to no avail. The a/c units are Coleman Mach 9000 series. My next step is to see if there is a fuse in the rooftop unit and look for sign of burnt electronics.
I really appreciate all the suggestions and comments from all and will keep you posted as to what I find

Steve
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:57 PM   #20
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PavePaws stated, CAUTION - any existing capacitor may have stored an electrical charge...enough to knock you off the roof.
I've observed empirically that's not true. I stayed on the roof both times. But I did have to get my pacemaker rebuilt.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:31 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EngineerMike View Post
PavePaws stated, CAUTION - any existing capacitor may have stored an electrical charge...enough to knock you off the roof.
I've observed empirically that's not true. I stayed on the roof both times. But I did have to get my pacemaker rebuilt.
Yes, ditto but I think It may have improved my vision and hearing ... and colors seem brighter
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:40 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by casper124 View Post
Thanks All for feedback. I was able to get the rear a/c started and worked on both fan and cool. It however, didn't blow cool air and I had tstat set in low 70's. Am concerned the system freon may have leaked out during winter as both a/c's worked last fall while on generator and 50 amp shore power.
Cylon51 as per your question about the tstat it is a RV Comfort. ZC. Don't know if that answers your questions. I did try your suggestion on the front a/c but to no avail. The a/c units are Coleman Mach 9000 series. My next step is to see if there is a fuse in the rooftop unit and look for sign of burnt electronics.
I really appreciate all the suggestions and comments from all and will keep you posted as to what I find

Steve
You'd need to test temp difference in intake/exhaust and amp draw on the compressor to know if you lost refrigerant.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:11 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casper124 View Post
Cylon51 as per your question about the tstat it is a RV Comfort. ZC.

Steve
Ok thanks. We were speculating you had a Dometic Duo Therm system, so disregard that info as it does not apply to the RV Comfort.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:21 PM   #24
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Compresser start capacitor on Colemans seem to be a problem area--may be hard to find a replacement capacitor or someone to work on these units. Most service folks view them as "throw aways," and at $100 an hour, it doesnt take long for a new unit to start looking like a good deal. If fan is running, but compresser is not [you should hear compresser start/stop], capacitor replacement is a possiblity. They usually show some exterior burning or leaking as an indicator of having failed. Lots of things to check/chase on roof-top units, eg, t-stat, mother-board, breakers, capacitor, and freon leak. Capacitor and maybe a mother board is about all that can be "fixed." Good luck......
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:31 PM   #25
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Capacitors, fan motors/blades, compressor overloads, and control boards can all be replaced on upper unit. Only few things that can't be are the compressor itself and refrigerant.
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:48 PM   #26
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Update on A/C issues. Took coach to local RV service dealer who was able to determine the back a/c was blowing cool air 25 degrees below ambient temps, so will just chalk that one up to operator error,but, the front a/c issue was another story. It turns out that the factory miss labeled the circuit breaker for the front as the washer and dryer and vise versa. So the whole time, I was thinking the front a/c breaker was on and had the washer/dryer breaker off as I didn't need it. The best part about it we don't have a washer and dryer on the coach.
Thank you to all who took time to help me try and solve this problem.

Steve
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:30 AM   #27
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I have the same problem but just no rear unit function. There is AC at the junction box in the unit and the thermostat has normal displays. However, that 3 amp fuse sounds interesting. Where is it? Casper said he tried using the generator but no luck. If other 120v stuff works, that does not rule out the transfer switch. One of the relays may not close properly killing one leg. If you are using shore power, check for power in both legs because the A/Cs are on separate legs and very little is on the second leg. There is a trap when you use a 30 amp adapter, some of them power only one leg. The yellow ones power both legs and you can usually run both A/Cs on 30 amps.
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:25 AM   #28
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The Duo Therm ACs have a 3 amp fuse on the control board. When you remove the ceiling cover, there will be a silver box. On that box is a small access panel held by 1 screw. The fuse is behind that.

The most common problem with the Duo Therm HVAC system is a bad connection on the data cables. While you are right there, I would reseat that connection. It looks just like a phone line and jack. The other end is plugged into the board on Zone 1, as is the cable to the tstat and the furnace.
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