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Old 06-29-2013, 11:55 AM   #29
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Steve,

Since you are relatively new to the forum, and are looking at A/C issues (now solved! ), I thought you might want to be aware of an old issue with the installation of the A/C's by WRV. There are often gaps in the duct between the air conditioner unit on the roof and the ducts going through the coach. Some of the cool air escapes and goes right back into the unit intake, reducing air flow and cooling.

If you tape those up you will get better cooling. I did it many years ago and it really helped.

Here is a link to the old thread:

FYI/Airconditioning
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Old 06-30-2013, 03:39 PM   #30
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Note on compressor start capacitor: I had one roof unit that would run but not blow cold air. I pulled & tested the capacitor, got 45uF on my Fluke multimeter which is right on spec. I noticed a small burn like mark in the round hole next to the spade contacts. Replaced it w/a new 330V rated cap (OEM is 250v rated), and unit started right up. Never travel in summer heat w/out a spare start cap.

Note on cooling efficiency: In addition to information in Jim's link in post#29, efficiency is related to the seal between the AC's plastic hood and the condenser coils. OEM seal is a usually badly placed, cheap ~1"x~1" foam strip that gives up its seal over time if it was ever placed correctly at all. I resealed front unit using double layers of 7/16"x1.5" foam from H.D. Wife remarked on first trip out, "what did you do to the A/C?" When I told her, she said, "well get up there & reseal the other one." Perhaps this is more of a note on marital efficiency- expend whatever effort req'd to minimize wifely overheating.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:44 AM   #31
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Jim,
I pulled off the front a/c's face frame and started taping anything that even had the appearance of a leak and did improve flow. To what lever I'm not sure yet, but, I know some of the leaks into the return duct have ceased. Now on to the rear a/c. Thanks for the heads up.
Steve
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:21 PM   #32
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Reading all these solutions and check this and that. Oh boy. I have no experience with this sort of thing.
We just bought 1994 mountain Aire. I have gotten both air conditioners to operate once and for less than a minute then it shut off. The lights on the thermostats are still on. I'm running the generator but nothing happens. The fan part of it doesn't work either. I expected a delay, so the gen ran for 20 minutes while I turned everything off and on again. I don't know where the fuse box is or the return air ducts. There wasn't a manual that came with the coach. Can anyone help me? Or do I need to take it to the service center?
Sigh. I'm 63, recovering from breast cancer surgery and I don't climb on roofs. Hubby has no interest in trying to find the solution
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:27 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HomeAway View Post
Reading all these solutions and check this and that. Oh boy. I have no experience with this sort of thing.
We just bought 1994 mountain Aire. I have gotten both air conditioners to operate once and for less than a minute then it shut off. The lights on the thermostats are still on. I'm running the generator but nothing happens. The fan part of it doesn't work either. I expected a delay, so the gen ran for 20 minutes while I turned everything off and on again. I don't know where the fuse box is or the return air ducts. There wasn't a manual that came with the coach. Can anyone help me? Or do I need to take it to the service center?
Sigh. I'm 63, recovering from breast cancer surgery and I don't climb on roofs. Hubby has no interest in trying to find the solution
You should post this on the Newmar Forum as it is a coach specific issue.
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Old 07-09-2014, 07:16 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by HomeAway View Post
Reading all these solutions and check this and that. Oh boy. I have no experience with this sort of thing.
We just bought 1994 mountain Aire. I have gotten both air conditioners to operate once and for less than a minute then it shut off. The lights on the thermostats are still on. I'm running the generator but nothing happens. The fan part of it doesn't work either. I expected a delay, so the gen ran for 20 minutes while I turned everything off and on again. I don't know where the fuse box is or the return air ducts. There wasn't a manual that came with the coach. Can anyone help me? Or do I need to take it to the service center?
Sigh. I'm 63, recovering from breast cancer surgery and I don't climb on roofs. Hubby has no interest in trying to find the solution
I can all be figured out, but you need to climb, need hand tools, electrical meters, service manuals, flow charts, and need to know electricity. Glad you're recovering, but this is not something that can be done with out tools and knowledge/learning.
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Old 07-11-2014, 02:51 PM   #35
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Thanks for the link Jim. My front air has not been doing much at all and I was debating taking it to get the freon levels checked. I think I'll look at the duct fit first just in case.

If that don't work, does anyone have a reccommendation for an AC service location near Weatherford or Azle Texas?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim A View Post
Steve,

Since you are relatively new to the forum, and are looking at A/C issues (now solved! ), I thought you might want to be aware of an old issue with the installation of the A/C's by WRV. There are often gaps in the duct between the air conditioner unit on the roof and the ducts going through the coach. Some of the cool air escapes and goes right back into the unit intake, reducing air flow and cooling.

If you tape those up you will get better cooling. I did it many years ago and it really helped.

Here is a link to the old thread:

FYI/Airconditioning
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Old 07-11-2014, 05:14 PM   #36
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Bad news--not really such a thing any more as a "freon check"--these roof top units are sealed at the factory so you have to cut the copper pipe, braze on a valve and refill the system--most "repair" folks wont mess with it [and if they do, you are half way home to a new unit--$$$$$$] --they might do a capacitor, or a circuit brd or a t-stat but most wont do freon----good luck......
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:01 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by casper124 View Post
It turns out that the factory miss labeled the circuit breaker for the front as the washer and dryer and vise versa. So the whole time, I was thinking the front a/c breaker was on and had the washer/dryer breaker off as I didn't need it.
Now that is a first.. Or perhaps not.. If you have added an after market (or if a prior owner did) inverter of the pass through or in-line type (Same thing) it may be breakers got re-arrainged some.

One of the thigns I did post Inverter INstall was

1: RE-balance cause the idiots at CW put BOTH air conditioners on the same leg of the 50 amp service, not balanced (one on each) like you should and

2: Break out my Brother P-touch and label, label, re-label all breakers.. Nice and clear machine produced lettering black on white easily read by the light of a wet match in a coal bin at midnight type labels.
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:26 PM   #38
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How old is your rig? Seems that everyone is assuming that you have digital thermostats.

I agree with Jim that the fact that BOTH units are out should direct you to a shared component. Bad circuit breaker(?)

I assume that you have Duo-Therm / Dometic units? Mine have analog thermostats (most have been discontinued) and there is no delay, unless the a/c was just shut down and restarted.

You can buy a "non-contact voltage sensor" at Home Depot or electrical supply for $20 and test for line voltage (115-125vac) at each unit and at the circuit breaker panel without getting into disconnecting circuits.

Sounds like you're up and running now anyway.

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Old 07-12-2014, 12:50 PM   #39
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Last month I met a retired couple that had a 2006 36 ft Alpine. They told me there roof air units stopped working.
I had the man sut down all power including shore. Wait a few minutes, plugged back in and they came back to life.
in the first post you said you shut the power switchs down but had the Gen set on.
I know you found the problem but info for all Alpine owners, is when you have something like this act up. Power every thing down including Gen set, shore power, house shutoff switch and main power switch at the battery compartment.
Wait at lease 3 minutes then power up.
These same folks told me there windshield wipers stopped working and a rv tec cut and hot wired them when the power down as discribed above, most likely would have solved there problem.
The help on this forum is the best community resorce, and it is free.
Some times the fix is simpler than the advice suggested. But, it's all good advice.
Start simple.
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:18 AM   #40
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OK, since it's fixed, the post below is way overkill. However, it's good food for thought so I am leaving it here. If you have APEX owners manual, my suggestion is to read it though each spring before starting out, you will be amazed at how much you learn about stuff you were sure you knew how it worked last fall. Another tip, mechanical things are built to run, when in storage, run them anyway, that means the genset two hours a month, the furnace, the a/c's and take the coach up the road 25 miles one way and back home to get the engine worked out a bit, to keep the condensation out of it. You can level the coach and cycle the slides as well. You may also private message me since I own a 07 apex with any questions. Please note comment about WRV's Wiring QA, your fix for the problem is/are another reason I make that statement.

Ok, first going to assume you have coach plugged into at least a 30A RV shore power connection, or better a 50A RV Shore power connection. If you are trying to run a/c's with only a household 120V 15A power cord, they will not start, but will hum loudly and you will burn something up. The A/c's should start after about a minute, provided you have set temp level, and selecting cool. Front should start first with rear coming on after short wait.

If it does not, do the following.

1. Turn thermostat off, pull off the cover, and remove the fuse inside the thermostat if present, wait 5 minutes, plug in fuse. Wait minute or so, and then try again.
2. If that don't get it, throw breaker on shore power so no power present, turn off main switches for both house and chassis, wait one minute, turn those switches back on, then turn on breaker for shore power to again power coach.
3. Try above thermostat setting, cool, temp, etc. again, wait until one of the units starts.

Now if again it does not work, try above with shore power disconnected and with the genset running, note=genset will take at least one minute before taking over coach electrical load, this is normal, on my 07 APEX the front home entertainment fans come on when it has assumed coach load. Then try the thermostat settings again. If again it don't work, you need to figure out if the breakers are tripped, or some other circuits are not working. It's possible (not probable-but WRV had the crappiest wiring QA in the industry bar none) so the GFI circuit could be killing it as well, make sure all the GFI receptacles and all the receptacles are providing power, but trying a light in all the receptacles.

It could be as a last resort the start/run capacitor in the a/c unit itself, if you are not trained in electrical things, don't touch them, then can kill you with the stored up charge. Call a qualified RV Tech, and have him replace them. You can get the part numbers of the caps off the unit by taking off the top cover (plastic-if old and brittle it may crack, buy the new cover now as well). Order both the fan start run cap and the compressor start/run cap. Some units have a combined cap which does both. If this does not fix them, and you are sure you have 120V AC current at both units (again test the incoming power to see), the units could have failed, I am not thinking this is the issue, it's odd both would go out now, unless you had lighting strike, then lots of other stuff would not work.
Let us know what fixed it.
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