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Old 01-25-2011, 09:06 PM   #1
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RS2000 Inverter Fan Noise

I tried to respond to a previous thread on this but the message was 849 days old and I couldn't get it to accept a response, hence the new thread.

We developed a noisy inverter a little over a week ago, which I suspected was fan noise, possibly from sand/grime and the fan was going out. Just before going to Quartzite, the loud fan noise went away and the inverter produced a nice, low level hum, which seemed a little quieter than I remembered. So then I wondered if the fan went out. There were no overheat faults on the inverter. At DRR X I listened to several other inverters in other coaches like ours and had the same hum. I decided to change the fan anyway, and had ordered some extra fans based on the spec Dale Gerstel posted on his inverter fan thread.

The fan was replaced at Tucson yesterday by a Xantrex certified technician and the rest of the inverter checked out, cleaned out and reinstalled. The old fan had stopped running and the conclusion was it wasn't hot enough for the inverter to overheat and produce a fault warning.

The reason I'm posting this is that after we put the new fan in the inverter the noise came back to a level where it was easy to hear the fan and not just a mild hum, but not so noisy it wasn't objectionable. So in those coaches like our 2006 with the inverter mounted on the back wall of the storage bay, if you have a nice quite "hum" and can't clearly hear the fan, or feel air discharge around the bottom of the inverter from the fan, you might want to check the fan out and make sure yours is actually cooling.

We also tried relocating the inverter but didn't have enough time and couldn't quickly figure out how to get it up between the frame rails without a long drilling process on the frame. The inverter is supposed to be mounted 1" from the wall for cooling, but it's only about 1/4" as is sets. With a little innovation, we got it about to about 1/2", which is better but not as good as it should be. Still going to try to figure out a way to put it up between the frame rails as we saw in a previous post.

I have a couple extra fans if anybody needs one. PM and I'll give you a good deal. I had to order 6 for minimum order quantity and I sold 2 and have 3 left. I'll sell two of them.
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:09 AM   #2
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Old:

Here is how I mounted my inverter between the rails. No changes in cabling required.
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:40 AM   #3
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Which RV business place did the work? It is good to know who does what and how good they are. I use La Mesa RV in Tucson and have been very pleased. Happy travels, Joe
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:24 AM   #4
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Takepride,

Looks like you drilled the sides of the frame rails to put the bolts in to hold the mounting rails. Was this a slow, long process or did you do something special to drill the holes? I did not want to drill the bottom flange of the frame rails.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:08 AM   #5
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Old, here is a beter picture of how I mounted mine.
Wayne

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Old 01-26-2011, 10:21 AM   #6
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Wayne,

Much better! Looks like you made a "clamp" type of arrangement to fasten the inverter rail to the frame rail. I was thinking about doing that with a clamp like used to fasten down canopies to pickup beds, like I have on my pickup bed. Your's is a lot neater. I'll have to find a fabrication shop when I get home to do that for me.

BTW, the Xantrex tech said to mount the inverter upside down when doing it overhead like you did. Said it's better for the fan air flow.

Thanks again,

Bill
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:28 AM   #7
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Actually mine is right side up the picture is taken with me laying on my back looking up. Mine seems to be quite happy up there. I made the mod in the spring of 06 and we are full timers.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:37 AM   #8
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If it works OK, I guess that's all that matters! The tech said you can mount them in any direction, he just liked upside down when overhead like that. But I sure can't argue with your success.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:53 AM   #9
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I thought the fan was pulling air in. If it is right side up, SB be best. If it is exhausting air then up side down would be best. Mounted where it is it has good ventilation on all sides. I would imagine the water tank acts as a large heat sink and helps cool the area. My tank is almost always close to full do to the RO system.

I mounted mine the way I did for ease of access to the mounting bolts. The clamp method also helps with installation. I was able to loosely attach the clamps to the aluminum angels on one side. Then slip that end over the flange and use it as a hinge to rotate the unit up into place.

Excuse me off topic,
I'm currently busy fixing the leaking LH rear jack that WRV, dealer and HWH could not fix. They have put 4 new jacks in that position and replaced the hose fitting. It has never stopped leaking. I think I may win the battle this time. I have the jack removed and the area cleaned up. I verified the hose is leaking ( with mirror and flash light). Step one is to install a short 4 foot hose to the jack prior to installation and then connect the long hoe to it. It probably will leak at the union between the hoses. If it does I will then run a new main hose but leave the 4 foot section in place. The LH hose fitting on top of the LH rear jack is next to imposable for me to get at when the jack is installed.

Wayne
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:04 PM   #10
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Actually it is not mounted to the frame rails at all. See the first and second photos. I drilled the bulkhead separating the tank area and the stiffener above the old inverter location. The inverter support runs North and South.

There is plenty of air, all around, the buttons are accessible and the cable attachments are easy to get to. The fan vents are pointing down, where I can vacuum them periodically.

Removal and reinstall are quite easy. I didn't want to deal with drilling the rails as the one and only time I drilled one, I hit a hose. Very difficult to repair, too.
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Old 01-27-2011, 08:48 PM   #11
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If drilling the rails, I recommend NOT drilling the bottom flange, but drilling above the bend area of the bottom flange return in the vertical field of the channel. The bottom flange is the most critical part of the structure.
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Old 01-27-2011, 09:21 PM   #12
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Wayne-

The cooling fan does exhaust, not suck air in. Our bulkhead wall was very black from the exhaust of the cooling fan when we removed the inverter. That's why the tech said it would be better to install it upside down overhead, since it runs all the time, as you deduced.

Your jack/hose problem reminds me of all the issue I had with wardrobe slide hoses. Good luck with that one!

TakePride:

I see now that you have bolted the rails to the sides of the bulkhead and away from the frame rails. Much better. I will work on re doing our installation when I get home in April/May. Right now the inverter with its new fans and better spacing from the bulkhead is doing fine. I would just like to have more space in the cargo area and a better cooling arrangement. Like the Xantex tech said -- Manufacturers need to follow the advice on installing inverters like any other applicance, and in his words -- RTFM -- and you can figure out what that means. It says, install the inverter with 1 inch of clearance between the exhaust fan and anything getting in its way, and it looks like WRV didn't do that on our type of coach.
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:56 AM   #13
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Manufacturers rarely read the manuals. That's for the owner, right?
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne R View Post
Old, here is a beter picture of how I mounted mine.
Wayne

Wayne it sounds like takepride didn't have to make any changes to his cabling with his move, does that apply to yours as well. After reading Oldforesters post I'm thinking I may have a fan problem (have recently been hearing a much more noticable hum) and if I need to open things up to chect it out I would love to free up that additional space a the same time however I really don't want to have to cut and splice any cables
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