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Old 01-21-2013, 03:50 PM   #1
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Rubber Coupling for Kitchen Sink Drain

I just purchased a 2004 40' MDTS Alpine. The black rubber coupling/reducer that connects the kitchen sink drain hose to a solid piece of PVC is severed. This is located under the kitchen drawers and gets flexed each time the room slide is moved in or out. Does anyone where I can obtain the rubber coupling?

Thanks,
Dan 425 777-0148
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:47 PM   #2
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A number of us have had problems with that coupling. They are standard in the plumbing hardware section of your favorite store. What the problem appears to be causing these to break is the flexible hose becoming not so flexible over time. We have "solved" the problem by replacing that flexible hose with a section of pool vacuum hose cut to the needed length. These appear to remain nice and flexible. I did mine three or four years ago and no issues since.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:01 PM   #3
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Home Depot or Lowes will have the 1.5" x 2" coupling. You will want to replace about 24" of the fixed end of the not-so-flexible 1.5" i.d. spa pipe that forms a long arc to the outside rear corner of the slide. I use 1.5" i.d. swimming pool vacuum hose as Rich&Cork mentioned above. I get that along w/a 1.5" x 1.5" no-hub coupler. I fill the outside ribs in the vacuum hose with 3M 5200 Fast Curing sealant and let it cure for a full 24 hrs prior to installing. I've found that squeezing in the sealant to the hose ribs, then wiping it flush with wax paper makes a good-enough smooth o.d. on the vacuum hose. Mine has lasted 3.5yrs+.
Also, retying the bundle of hoses/wires/tubing that flexes with the waste line so that the now-less flexible stuff can slide freely from the waste line for the last 18" or so helps to relieve stress on the end fitting.

Last one I just did at Quartzsite also took a 1.5" thread by glue coupler into the ABS piping behind the shower. Best thing is to assess how to disassemble the cabinet as needed for sane access to accomplish this work. Its pretty tough to get to if you don't take at least part of the cabinetry apart.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:07 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EngineerMike View Post
Home Depot or Lowes will have the 1.5" x 2" coupling. You will want to replace about 24" of the fixed end of the not-so-flexible 1.5" i.d. spa pipe that forms a long arc to the outside rear corner of the slide. I use 1.5" i.d. swimming pool vacuum hose as Rich&Cork mentioned above. I get that along w/a 1.5" x 1.5" no-hub coupler. I fill the outside ribs in the vacuum hose with 3M 5200 Fast Curing sealant and let it cure for a full 24 hrs prior to installing. I've found that squeezing in the sealant to the hose ribs, then wiping it flush with wax paper makes a good-enough smooth o.d. on the vacuum hose. Mine has lasted 3.5yrs+.
Also, retying the bundle of hoses/wires/tubing that flexes with the waste line so that the now-less flexible stuff can slide freely from the waste line for the last 18" or so helps to relieve stress on the end fitting.

Last one I just did at Quartzsite also took a 1.5" thread by glue coupler into the ABS piping behind the shower. Best thing is to assess how to disassemble the cabinet as needed for sane access to accomplish this work. Its pretty tough to get to if you don't take at least part of the cabinetry apart.
Mike, thanks for adding more detail.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:24 PM   #5
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Shop AMERICAN VALVE 1-1/2-in x 1-1/2-in Dia Flexible PVC Coupling Fittings at Lowes.com

Dick
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Old 11-06-2013, 02:51 PM   #6
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Anyone who has info - I checked the access to this "spa hose section", and their aint no way I am going to be able to get all the way back into the corner of the slide to uncouple the old hose and connect up the new one. Alas, I have the outside garbage access door, and the hose connection is right under that. There are some screws at the top, which might allow me to take this area apart to gain access. My question is, has anyone ever done that? If so can I just push this cabinet back, fix one end of the hose in question, then I can get to the other end from a small access panel which allows the HH register to breathe fresh air. Access is complicated, because we have the dishwasher in our coach, which does not give me the drawer bank most other have or the oven in other cases. Please post reply if you know or PM me an answer, my internet is slow and I don't get on the PC every day like when I am home. Thank you in advance!
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:03 AM   #7
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I agree with Monty about there is no easy access on the Apex to the rear hose connection. I used some painted aluminum sheet metal that I screwed down to the melamine, with screws on the corners so it would not catch on the hose. I just slid in two pieces end to end through the heater vent. The hose appears to slide better on the aluminum. Hopefully I will not have a problem.
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Old 11-16-2013, 09:28 AM   #8
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My recommendation is to meet up with E. Mike and hire him to do it so it gets done right.. He did mine and I am thankful to him. Mel
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Old 11-16-2013, 03:42 PM   #9
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As I asked a question, and never got an answer, I think, I am just going to take the thing apart and see what happens. It appears, that a bunch of screws hold the garbage can box in place at that location. I will remove a few and see what happens, if that gains me access to the area, I can fix it my self, since I have all the parts except the sheets of plastic, which is something I can get once I have the job completed. If not, E-Mike, send me an e-mail, let me know where you are, where you are going to be, and maybe we can hookup. I am still in Yuma, waiting on some parts to arrive in the mail, then too Apache Junction, Tucson, and Benson, AZ. That will take me a week to 10 days. Let me know.
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:10 PM   #10
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Not sure of where your sink is but mine is across from the fridge on the port side and the back of the sink is forward of the wall the shower is at.. we just took out all the shelves under the sink and got to it that way.. Mel
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