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Old 06-16-2010, 07:57 AM   #15
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I am sure prices are up but the shop rate for a gasket and manifold replacement was about $900 [number of broken bolts notwithstanding]--however, this was a couple of years ago. So having been "treated well" is kind of a relative term. Once the problem is "discovered" and depending on the degree of "tear-down;" I dont know if at that point, you can call Cummins Corp and get an estimate that the local shop must work with?????? I feel as though I can trust my Cummins folks here in San Antonio, not sure about other locations--buyer be ware!!!
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Old 06-16-2010, 06:40 PM   #16
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I do not find any specific informaiton in my owner's manual regarding a "shutdown procedure". And, I do not find any information about idling for 3-5 minutes before driving. My manual declares the proper operating temperature to be 170 degrees before driving.

Since the temperature gauge is not calibrated to precisely identify 170 degrees, I would think that 3-5 minutes would be a good "rule of thumb" before driving. I will also adopt the "rule of thumb" when parking because it sounds like the right thing to do.

Do most people shut their engine off when fueling or leave it running? I would think that using the "rule of thumb" should apply to fueling IF the engine is turned off.

Comments?
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Old 06-16-2010, 06:54 PM   #17
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What kind of warranty doesn't include engine? I have mine just for engine and tran
PS I never shut mine down till I'm done for the day.
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Old 06-16-2010, 07:42 PM   #18
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Here is the word from Cummins.
"Engine Warm-up
Do not operate at full speed/load until coolant temperature
reaches normal operating range. Do not operate above low idle
until oil pressure is indicated.
Engine Cooldown
Prior to shutdown, an engine should be idled 3-5 minutes after
extended full throttle or high power operation. However, under
normal driving conditions, such as exiting a highway, engine
operation is generally lighter in nature and thereby, the 3-5 minute
cooldown is not necessary."
Moving a motor home in and out of a campground is not operating at full throttle. It is very light operation so warm up and cool down times can be ignored. I always shut mine down when fueling and when I pull in to a rest stop. There is too much noise and pollution already without me adding to it.
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Old 06-18-2010, 05:48 PM   #19
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We also had a cracked manifold, as well as a bad lift pump and a couple of other things. Together with an oil change, the cost was just over $3000 at Cummins Rocky Mountain Denver. Diesel engines ain't cheap.
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Old 06-18-2010, 05:56 PM   #20
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OK....

I gotta state the obvious...

There are enough of us with Cummins ISLs having cracked manifolds...Is this an early model (pre 2006) issue or does it affect all ISLs?

Sounds like an issue to me that Cummins should address.
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F&D ABQ View Post
.....Together with an oil change, the cost was just over $3000 at Cummins Rocky Mountain Denver. Diesel engines ain't cheap.
Franklin,

Were you pleased with how you were teated?

I have been pleased with the service there , but like you, I now understand that...

"Diesel aint cheap!"
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:10 PM   #22
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Add my cracked manifold to your list. '01 ISB 300hp, cracked nearly 3/4 way round. appx. $400 for both parts of the manifold,gaskets,all bolts studs & nuts. I did the labor (sweat & all) in about 6 hrs,total. The local Cummins shop rate is $110/hr., total if charged $1100.00. I'm lucky to be still able to twist bolts. Cummins here is very helpful. No complaints from me.
safe travels...
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:10 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mythplaced View Post
Franklin,

Were you pleased with how you were teated?

I have been pleased with the service there , but like you, I now understand that...

"Diesel aint cheap!"
This may sound like boasting, and I guess it is ...
We were in Denver for the summer, because I had a job dumped on me unexpectedly. Working 6-1/2-day weeks. So it was cheaper for me to have Cummins do the work than to do it myself. I had taken the M/H in for an oil change but asked them to do a general health check as well; they found the problems and fixed them but it took 3 days so we had to find alternative living arrangements. Still cheaper than doing it myself.

To answer your question, yes I'm satisfied. I also believe Cummins Rocky Mountain in Albquerque is a good shop.
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Old 07-07-2010, 11:30 PM   #24
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I second the Cummins in ABQ. I had some work done this week. Up front from the get go. Friendly and delivered. Nice facility as well, albeit not cheap. However, I understand that these are large operations with allot of overhead.
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:19 PM   #25
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I also have had great service at Cummins in Albuquerque. Not cheap, but great service.
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:32 PM   #26
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A few comments on '06 ISL 400 leaking exhaust manifold. Our '06 has 41,000 miles and I just had it checked yesterday during our annual service at Cummins Yakima to make sure we didn't have a leaking exhaust manifold, and we don't -- and our turbo was also fine. Mike Young was there and I remembered what he told us at Toppenish at the last "Homecoming Rally" a few years ago about warm up and shut down. He said we only needed 2 to 3 minutes of cool down after a hard pull on the coach, and otherwise, if we were just stopping at a rest stop or pulling in for fuel after normal, reasonably level or easier-pull driving on the freeway to shut it down. He said at the time that he had numerous complaints from truck drivers about burning too much fuel and he always asked them if they shut down there engine when they stopped briefly and they perpetually told him no. He said it's only in a higher temperature situation like a hard pull when the turbo's been boosting a lot just before stopping that it needs a few minutes to cool. I've always shut ours down or let it run a minute at the most to get the temperature down around 190 or 188 and then shut it down.

The other point he made is to go slow, like leave the campground slowly or let it otherwise warm up until it gets to 130-140 degrees or so. I've always done that with our coach as well, and so far it's worked fine, as evidenced by the exhaust manifold and the turbo.

It seems like this leaking exhaust manifold is an earlier model issue or one with more calendar age and miles.
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Old 07-09-2010, 11:16 PM   #27
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Having owned diesel engines for over 20 years, in trucks and motorhome (1), I am certainly used to the warm-up and cool down issues related to these engines. With today’s economy/sales & service being very lacking, you as the owner need to "read those manuals", as no dealer is going to explain everything to you. It's ultimately your responsibility to do that, read those manuals, if they did not come with the coach (ours was missing a few), you can download most of them, with the exception of the Cummins ones. You have to purchase those, or talk a dealer out of one, pleading the story my coach did not come with one. Once you have read them, you can make up a chart showing the various service points based on mileage or hours or time. Cummings recommends 15,000 or 500 hours of service or 6 months: change the engine oil, filter, check the coolant additive at this time and add additive or if necessary change the coolant. As I understand it some of us do not have a coolant filter.

I agree with OF, letting the engine warm up to at least 130 before putting a light load on it is very good advice, and taking it slow until it's at least 170 (according to my Cummins manual) is a better thing. If you are in a park that is large and far off the freeway, then this works out well. If not, then at least pull into an area where the noise of the engine at fast idle won’t bother other campers and let it then warm up to at least 140 or so, then by the time you are at the freeway it should be close to the 170 it needs to be.

On another note, I have scheduled an oil change service at Cummins NW in Portland, OR and the charge for that is 330.00 at the Power Club Price. I priced out the stuff myself, and the filter is about 41, the oil is about 60 dollars (based on Costco Price of 6 gallons at 55, and needing an extra gallon so I got 28 or 29 quarts), so it's labor for the rest of it, although I won’t know for sure how they are charging me until I show up for the appointment, and I will complain if the price seems out of line. I don’t know if I can supply my own oil, but wont in this case, as I can keep it for spare. I have always gotten good service at this Cummins facility, as mentioned in an earlier post on this thread.

I will purchase a roll around drain pan with a pump (Northwestern Tool) for around 150, and once we relocate I will start to do it myself. See this link if you are also interested: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200422329_200422329
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Old 07-10-2010, 03:56 PM   #28
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Monty:

Cummins has an "A" service and a "B" service. The $330 includes more than just the oil and filter change. You might ask them for the list.

That being said, you might verify they actually did all the items on their list. They give that job to the most junior of the techs and it is often reflected in the quality of the work. I have yet to find they returned the dipsticks to a full seated position (3 gallons of oil later).
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