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Old 04-17-2013, 05:55 PM   #1
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Shower Door Removal

I finally got frustrated with opening and closing the shower door and noticed 2 - problems. 1) The shower frame work is no longer square (assuming it was once) and, 2) The shower door hinge at the bottom is extremely loose and no longer holding the door up as much as it did (again, I'm assuming it did once).

1) I believe I fixed the frame work by changing the screws on the top 45 degree angle brackets to bigger screws (#6 vs. #8) while holding the framework in a more favorable position.

2) I can not figure out how to remove the shower door (gracefully) to determine if something needs to be fixed or replaced. Does anyone know an easy way of removing the door? Has anyone had to repair their shower door?

Any help would be appreciated and probably keep me from breaking the door!
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:45 PM   #2
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I fixed a problem with mine last year. The shower door was no longer square and dragged on the frame at the bottom. The horizontal screws had wallowed out their tracks in the frame, allowing the frame to separate from the glass. I was able to get longer screws and that helped the problem, since the screws could go into virgin territory.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:23 PM   #3
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Not familiar with your exact door, but usually, sometimes, maybe there is a stop or lock screw at the top pivot of the door that you remove then the door will lift straight up and off.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:49 PM   #4
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There is a nifty diagram HERE on the ACA Tech page showing the shower enclosure used on early coaches. Mine works the same with simple "pin" type hinges that extend from the fixed frame down or up into the upper & lower ends of the door frame hinge side extrusion. The diagram doesn't show the pin explicitly.

If I lifted the upper frame part, the pin would remain in the door frame and I could lift the door off. I would only need to remove the 135 degree gussetts at the upper middle corners, then lift off the frame piece above the door, then lift off the door (probably need to hold the door when removing the upper frame piece so door doesn't fall).
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:27 PM   #5
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Never fails ... I searched this forum and found nothing but forgot to check the ACA website.

The "gussetts" you (Mike) referenced were my first fix. The original #6 flat head screws were no longer holding tight in the aluminum frame probably because of the "rolling earthquake" affect and normal use. I replace the screws with #8 which seems to have done the job for now. What a "PITA" trying to use a low profile screwdriver in such a right space about the frame (ceiling!).

Trying to remove the door will have to wait until we get home (Saturday?). We've been hanging out in Gallup & then Albuquerque, New Mexico waiting for all the strong winds to calm. And now there's been snow storms & low temperatures in northern New Mexico & Colorado (home). If I break the door we won`t have a shower.

Thanks Mike!
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:30 PM   #6
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Next time you are in a Sears or Home depot, ask in the tool dept for a right angle ratcheting hex driver. Sears has a set of 3- straight, angle up head, angle down head, and H.D. has a nice double ended unit (think its made by GearWrench) that takes 1/4 hex on one end and has a 5/16 hex to 1/4" square drive. both units are reversing and make these types of close quarters work possible w/out a completely fluent sailor's vocabulary.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:26 AM   #7
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You can always rip it all out and replace with a curtain.
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:27 PM   #8
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Here's a follow-up to my shower door problem ...

I found hinge parts for the Challenger neo-angle enclosure at Pelland Enterprises and ordered 2 - sets for $13+. Since the parts are on order I decided to go forward with pulling the door assembly. I won't bother anyone with all of the details but suffice to say it was a little PITA because I did not remove either side panels (probably a better method!?). It turned out that all of the parts necessary to fix the hinge was available at a local True Value hardware store. I used a 3/16" rod (cut to 2"), a nylon spacer bushing, a round "T" shaped nylon bushing (lower support rail), and 4 - #10 stainless steel washers to space the door up to clear the bottom rail (doesn't seem to be very square).

There are 2 - flat stiffening brackets at the top of the frame that are basically 45 degree angle (or something similar) with 4 - screws in each bracket. I used new round head screws instead of flat-head screws to allow some shifting when tightening the brackets. This method helps keep the framework square or atleast keep the door from dragging badly on the bottom rail. NOTE: There is VERY little room between the frame and the ceiling so you'll need a low profile off-set screwdriver or remove the entire shower enclosure.

One other idea I'm considering is bending a typical splice bracket to attach on the side of the top rails at the 45 degree angle location. You would need to push the frame into the desired position, mark the holes, drill pilot holes, and attach screws. This method might be better than relying on those top 45 degree brackets. If anyone has a better idea please share.
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:10 PM   #9
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Possibly another way

Quote:
Originally Posted by EngineerMike View Post
There is a nifty diagram HERE on the ACA Tech page showing the shower enclosure used on early coaches. Mine works the same with simple "pin" type hinges that extend from the fixed frame down or up into the upper & lower ends of the door frame hinge side extrusion. The diagram doesn't show the pin explicitly.

If I lifted the upper frame part, the pin would remain in the door frame and I could lift the door off. I would only need to remove the 135 degree gussetts at the upper middle corners, then lift off the frame piece above the door, then lift off the door (probably need to hold the door when removing the upper frame piece so door doesn't fall).
We had a dragging door problem that the field service team from Tiffin (was that at Quartzsite?) fixed for us by adjusting the side panel where it meets the wall jamb. It held for a couple of years but needs more work now.

Thanks for the nifty diagram! Why do I never think to look in the ACA tech library???

Frank H.
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:37 PM   #10
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Frank, the space at the top of my shower is very small requiring a low profile offset screwdriver. Once you remove those 135 degree brackets you're "home free" (sort of). I found that the entire door frame can lift up and out at the top because the sides will bow quite a bit. I just continue pulling the frame out from the top which basically allows it to slide out of the bottom where it is much tighter. There wasn't much left of my hinge pin.

I'm really curious what the technician did to reduce the bottom drag on the door. I pushed on the top of the right side panel while tightening those screws on the 135 degree brackets. It seems to have made a difference but I doubt it will stay like that for very long. Just opening the door encourages the alignment to want to shift right which will slowly but surely cause more door drag. Even so, it will be many times better than before I rebuilt the hinge.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:53 PM   #11
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You may have adjustment space at the wall jamb (which is a "U" extrusion into which the side panel slides.) I didn't really pay attention to the details, but the Tiffin crew used two people, one to shove the top of the door frame towards the wall and one to put in the screws that hold the side panel in place. Ten minute fix.

The most important detail I didn't observe is which way to shove what! I'd think either push the top frame forward (into the inside jamb, on the hinge side) or pull the top frame outwards (from the outside wall jamb.)
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:25 PM   #12
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Another follow-up ...

I thought my custom fix was working fine but not exactly. It started dragging on the bottom frame rail with a lot of sloppy movement. I had ordered replacement parts (pin, nylon pivot bushing, & plastic pilot bushing) from Pelland so I decided to take another shot at it using the replacement parts. Here are the issues:

1) The replacement hinge pin is much longer than my custom pin even though the original bad pin was even shorter and badly worn. The new pin comes with a beveled stand-off about 1" from the end and about 1/4" to 5/16" thick (didn't measure). I had to slightly ream out the 1/4" hole for the new nylon pivot bushing to allow insertion. IF you use a custom 3/16" pin, it needs to be 4" to 5" long. The vertical slot in the door is larger than 3/16" at the bottom but gets tighter further up the door. My custom 3" long pin was still allowing too much sloppy movement thus contributing to door drag.

2. The beveled stand-off on the new pin & the new plastic pilot bushing serve to keep the door high enough to avoid dragging. However, I found that I needed to add 2 - #10 stainless steel washers to minimize the vertical spacing. IF you use a custom hinge pin, you'll need a "T" style nylon bushing to hole the pin in the frame rail and a 1/4" to 5/16' nylon spacer bushing to keep the door high enough to avoid bottom scrapping. Check the total spacing at the top as well as bottom and adjust spacer bushing size or add washers as necessary. The goal is to hold the door up as high as possible without binding.

You should be able to find generic parts at a hardware store such as True Value if you desire (where I found mine). You may have to drill out the center hole of the bushings to 3/16" in some cases but not too difficult. My suggestion is to order the replacement parts from Pelland using the part numbers identified on the Shower Enclosure diagram available at the ACA website. They'll mail the parts to you directly from the manufacturer for around $5.

My shower door really works great now.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:42 PM   #13
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Another piece of advice, is annually and more often if you live in your rig full time, take the time to tighten all those screws in the shower frame. They then won't round out from shaking themselves going down the road. I do it once we leave for the winter, and then check them over the summer once we are home.

The same goes for the 4 hold down bolt for the roof air conditioner units. About once a year, take the cover off from the inside and using a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and three fingers, just take up a little tension on the bolts and make sure they are tight, don't over tighten them you will destroy the gasket/seal which keeps the water out of the coach, better than hand tight, but not much more than that.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:21 PM   #14
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Broken glass - DW bumped into door today and the glass shattered. She is fine but shower now almost useless. What to do??? Tempered glass isn't easy to find and a 2006 coach could be an issue... Ideas, options?
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