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Old 01-08-2016, 04:02 PM   #1
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Sinking Feeling

The edge of our sink dropped about 3/4". Looks like the glue gave up the ghost. I was surprised to find that is was just glued(?) to the bottom of the counter. Never gave it much thought, but I guess I thought there would be plywood underneath the Karadon like a granite counter top.

Just curious what the popular fix is. Prop it up with a couple of 1x2s on each end? Has anybody come up with a little less rustic method?

Thanks, Terry

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Old 01-08-2016, 05:36 PM   #2
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I made that repair and documented it in this blog post.

2003 Alpine Coach 40MDTS - 400HP Cummins ISL
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Old 01-08-2016, 06:06 PM   #3
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I wasnt comfortable with trying to "re-glue" the metal sink to the corian bottom so I used some 1X2 wood strips and when from the inside of the wood cabinets in front to the rear wall. Then used shims and wood screws to hold the sink in place while I re-caulked. Figured the wood to wood connection was better.
PS--I know it is fashionable to do so but the corian sink lids/covers are quite heavy and as you go bouncing down the road, I suspect their weight contributes to sink seal failures--IMHO....
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Old 01-08-2016, 06:16 PM   #4
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When the installed the sink in the S&B in the granite counter top they used silicone. It has been there for 15 years without a bit of issue.

Is the glue actually silicone?
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Old 01-08-2016, 07:15 PM   #5
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Silicone is the normal way to install the sink to corion. After the second time the sink fell out at home I cut some wood strips, glued the sink up nd then screwed the wood strips to the side walls. When they installed my granite counters the installers first mounted two braces with jack screws,pit the cointers down, applied a bead of silicone then jacked the sink in place.
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:46 PM   #6
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Sinking Feeling

IIRC, it was just about when WRV closed for good, our sink fell out. I glued it back in by removing the drains, placed two 2x4's with a hole in them across the counter top, ran a piece of threaded rod through the drain holes into a smaller piece of wood under the sink and tightened the bolts until the sink was flush against the counter. I left it like that for 2 days and I have not had a problem with it since, and that's been 7 years. I used silicon adhesive and in the corners I put a small dab of Liquid Nails. I also ran a new bead of silicon around the sink to keep water from getting in between the sink and the counter top.

BTW - the counter tops are Karadon.

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Old 01-10-2016, 04:45 PM   #7
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Got it fixed. I removed the sink and cleaned off all of the old adhesive from the sink and under the counter. The adhesive appeared to be silicone.

In an effort to avoid any future problems, probably overkill, I bought a couple of cargo tie downs, 1" wide by 12' nylon with the pull and lock friction type tension holding mechanisms. The kind you can release by pushing a small thumb actuated lever, not the ratcheting type. I cut the straps and doubled the material over and screwed it to the cabinet framework front and rear so that I could cinch it down across the bottom of the sink. The buckle ended up directly under the sink and provided a tight fit. This is how our home sink is, 3 bowl sink with a garbage disposal hanging on it, only it has ratchet tie downs.

Then I Gorilla glued it and using long cable ties through the drain strainer holes, I lifted it into place, took the slack out of the tie downs and cinched it up good and tight. I was gonna use the cable ties around a couple of 1x2 or something similar to hold the sink in place while the glue dried but it wasn't necessary. Hooked the drains up this morning and all is well, I will re-caulk tomorrow, and it should be a done deal.

Now to address the charging issue and the broken Posi Lock on the entry door. Always something!


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