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Old 03-01-2010, 08:51 PM   #15
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Jim A,
Does you key turn to the left? On the earlier coaches turning key to the left provide electric to the accesories, including the HWH system. By turning key left to raise the jacks/bring in the slide, the buzzer does not sound.
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Old 03-01-2010, 10:29 PM   #16
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Yes it does. That's what I do, turn the key to the left to operate the HWH system. But I don't start the engine because THAT starts the buzzer. I wait for the jacks to store before I start the engine.
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:34 PM   #17
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I always open a door, window or vent before I move a slide in or out so the air can freely move either in or out of the coach.
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:44 AM   #18
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Should the air be dumped before leveling? If so, how do I do it in my coach with no air dump switch? Would applying the foot brake several times with the engine off release any air? I know that when I put my coach in storage for a week, upon return I can see that it has settled 4 or 5 inches. I would think that it would be better for the leveling system if the coach has settled first, but I don't know how to make that happen.
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:50 PM   #19
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azloafer,

The HWH system in the Alpine Coach will dump the air bags as the first step in the automatic leveling sequence. That tells me that the air should be dumped before leveling. And it would make the coach lower to start with and more likely to have enough travel in the jacks to get level in non-level spaces. I think it also has a dump button, but I rarely have a need for it since it is part of the automatic sequence. Not sure what system your coach might have. The Alpines don't have air brakes, so hitting the brake pedal while the engine is not running will have no effect on the air in the system. I am afraid that we in the Alpine Coach forum will not be of much assistance for you in this case.

My guess would be that hitting the brake pedal with the engine off will bleed air out of the system, but not out of the air bags. The bags should stay filled even if there is no air in the supply system, except for leakage which would be a problem. My air bags stay filled in storage for weeks. I have to purposely dump them.
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:34 PM   #20
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azloafer,

The HWH system in the Alpine Coach will dump the air bags as the first step in the automatic leveling sequence. That tells me that the air should be dumped before leveling. And it would make the coach lower to start with and more likely to have enough travel in the jacks to get level in non-level spaces. I think it also has a dump button, but I rarely have a need for it since it is part of the automatic sequence. Not sure what system your coach might have. The Alpines don't have air brakes, so hitting the brake pedal while the engine is not running will have no effect on the air in the system. I am afraid that we in the Alpine Coach forum will not be of much assistance for you in this case.

My guess would be that hitting the brake pedal with the engine off will bleed air out of the system, but not out of the air bags. The bags should stay filled even if there is no air in the supply system, except for leakage which would be a problem. My air bags stay filled in storage for weeks. I have to purposely dump them.
I have the Kwikee hydraulic leveling system in this coach. My prior coach was a Monaco and it had an air dump switch, but this one does not. I wrote Freightliner this AM and asked them for advice. Thanks, Joe
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:52 PM   #21
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Joe- you could add an air dump switch easily. Your current setup has a switching mechanism in the Kwikee, and air solenoid-valve(s) at the chassis (maybe one central, or probably one front & one back or maybe one @ each of 4 corners) to release the air.

You need 12 volts or ground (depends on existing switching setup), switch, and you "double tap" onto the air dump valve(s) your Kwikee system uses to release the chassis air. You have to figure out if the current solenoid valve(s) has(have) 12V to it(them) with a switch in the ground leg or if it(they) has(have) permanent ground wired to one side of the existing solenoid-valve(s). Since the existing switch is part of the Kwikee system, I'd use a multimeter at an actual air dump solenoid-valve and see if it has permanent 12V or permanent ground to one side, and that determines how it is wired. If it has 12v @ the solenoid w/out the Kwikee dumping air, you tap the other side and run a wire w/a switch in it to ground. If it has permanent ground to one side and no 12V to the other, then you tap your new wire to the non-grounded side of the solenoid with a switch in the wire line to 12V. You may need to have the Kwikee "on" to get the permanent 12V or ground signal at the air dump solenoid valve(s).

I would add an inline fuse in either case for good practice; if your multimeter is digital then measure the ohms across the air dump solenoid-valve contacts and divide by 12, then round up to next size fuse (in amps).
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:19 PM   #22
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Joe- you could add an air dump switch easily. Your current setup has a switching mechanism in the Kwikee, and air solenoid-valve(s) at the chassis (maybe one central, or probably one front & one back or maybe one @ each of 4 corners) to release the air.

You need 12 volts or ground (depends on existing switching setup), switch, and you "double tap" onto the air dump valve(s) your Kwikee system uses to release the chassis air. You have to figure out if the current solenoid valve(s) has(have) 12V to it(them) with a switch in the ground leg or if it(they) has(have) permanent ground wired to one side of the existing solenoid-valve(s). Since the existing switch is part of the Kwikee system, I'd use a multimeter at an actual air dump solenoid-valve and see if it has permanent 12V or permanent ground to one side, and that determines how it is wired. If it has 12v @ the solenoid w/out the Kwikee dumping air, you tap the other side and run a wire w/a switch in it to ground. If it has permanent ground to one side and no 12V to the other, then you tap your new wire to the non-grounded side of the solenoid with a switch in the wire line to 12V. You may need to have the Kwikee "on" to get the permanent 12V or ground signal at the air dump solenoid valve(s).

I would add an inline fuse in either case for good practice; if your multimeter is digital then measure the ohms across the air dump solenoid-valve contacts and divide by 12, then round up to next size fuse (in amps).
Thanks, I am going to copy this to a word document and save it; pending what Freight liner says, I'll be able to make a decision. I'll post their answer. Thanks for the info. Joe
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:43 PM   #23
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I have sign just below the slide in/out switch provided by the manufacture that says something like: always lower jacks before moving slides.

I understand you want a stable and level platform for slide movement.
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:07 PM   #24
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I have sign just below the slide in/out switch provided by the manufacture that says something like: always lower jacks before moving slides.

I understand you want a stable and level platform for slide movement.
I would think that would be a good practice for all makes and models. I have also heard otherwise, BUT if the coach is not level I can see where some damage could be caused each time the slides are extended and in time it could be trouble. I also believe in having a window open when moving slides in or out. In my prior coach the windshield had popped out at the top so I make sure a window is open now in this coach. Joe
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:14 PM   #25
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Jim A,

I must have mis-understood your post.
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:14 PM   #26
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Glad I started this thread.

My conclusion after the various competing instructions is that there is no one-size-fits-all "best" sequence. On side-sloping sites you should level first then unlevel last. On level sites, it probably doesn't matter much, except for coaches w/irregularities between slide & coach. Since mine grabs @ top-rear of the main slide, I think I catch less if on the bags to some extent instead of bumpers or jacks, but that won't work well where the slide would be downhill (uphill probably doesn't matter much unless its fairly sloped). Something to think about.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:06 PM   #27
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Jim A,

I must have mis-understood your post.
I kinda thought you might have. But obviously we are on the same page with the accessory side of the key. No reason to be sorry.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:16 PM   #28
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I also believe in having a window open when moving slides in or out. In my prior coach the windshield had popped out at the top so I make sure a window is open now in this coach. Joe
I like that nice cool breeze coming in the window while I extend the slide! I guess I had not thought about pressure buildup, as I don't always open the window. I guess I should.
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