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Old 01-08-2009, 06:00 PM   #1
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From time to time my large liv. rm slide will leak into the galley. Upon inspection you can see small puddles forming as the water leaks through but even in the center of the slide. I truly cannot see how the water gets there or gets underneath the rubber seal. If it rains particularly hard I will bring the slide in to drop the water off the awning but my awnings are quite tight(no sag). Any bright, brilliant thoughts? This has become a real issue as of late. Help required.
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:00 PM   #2
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From time to time my large liv. rm slide will leak into the galley. Upon inspection you can see small puddles forming as the water leaks through but even in the center of the slide. I truly cannot see how the water gets there or gets underneath the rubber seal. If it rains particularly hard I will bring the slide in to drop the water off the awning but my awnings are quite tight(no sag). Any bright, brilliant thoughts? This has become a real issue as of late. Help required.
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:20 PM   #3
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Ted,

Have you checked your coach level with a carpenter's level after the HWH has finished?

I've found on ours that if it's raining hard I lower the side with the slides manually a little bit and check it with my 36" carpenter level on the floor. That stopped my water intrusion, and it's not low enough for me to notice it, except for sometimes getting in the way of my satellite internet signal. (Which then causes a re-search of HughesNet system to re-lock on the satellite).

I haven't figured it out either, but I know this trick works for me. I'm guessing water goes down the side of the slide and wicks its way along the bottom.
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:10 PM   #4
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After much prodding I convinced WRV to add a section of wiper seal for the length of the galley.
The problem with mine was the opening was not cut square to the floor. The last 5 feet of wiper seal just barely contacted the slide. I could slide a piece of paper under it. The compression seal on the slide which is the primary seal was not even contacting the seal depressor. I had about inch difference in the gap c/t the slide and side wall from front to back.
Mine would leak badly whenever it rained hard with the wind blowing from the back of the coach. Since the repair 2 years ago it has not leaked a drop. I have been through some real gulley washer including the remnants of hurricane Ike when it devastated NW Arkansas.
I always planned to change the compression seal to the same seal used on my luggage doors. This would provide a much larger contact area with the seal depressor. Since it has never leaked again I just keep the 30 feet WRV gave me to install for other repairs.
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:11 AM   #5
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There is a lengthy thread on slide leaks but in general you have two options: 1) build up the outside seals to block water from getting thru the inside boarder of the slide or; 2) reseal the slide roof membrane at key points.

The roof membrane has two main weak points: 1) is at the corner of the kitchen cabinets--in many cases they cut the roof membrane too short at the corner so if any water does get behind the outside gaskets, the slide will leak. The other point is at all the screws/screw holes use to hold the inside boarder on the slide. I've use sealant on the corner area, each of the screw heads, and as an added measure--along the entire inside seam of the roof membrane. Lots of work but no more leaks. Based on the way WRV slides are constructed/installed, it seems to me that no matter how tight you try to make the outside gaskets, they will eventually leak. Therefore, you have to ensure the slide roof membrane is water tight--as it was designed to be.
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Old 01-09-2009, 08:35 AM   #6
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I am not sure if you are having the same problem as I did. I have a 2008 Alpine and every time I put the driver's side slide in a wall of water came down the wall of the galley (after it had rained). After checking I found the vent for the oven/mirowave was right under the slide cover so every time it rained and we put the slide in we gave the galley wall, counter top & stove a big bath. After removing the outside vent we found no baffles to prevent water from entering our coach. After insalling a baffle and changing the inside of the vent a bit we have no more water problem. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-09-2009, 11:21 AM   #7
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ARW- Thanks for the tip. The 08 & 09 coaches with the added headroom are the only ones with that vent; earlier coaches have a recirculating microwave fan but no vent to the outside. I like the vent except for its noise while traveling in certain wind conditions, but I obviously need to check its installation for proper flashing against water leaks.
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Old 01-09-2009, 12:04 PM   #8
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Ted3,

While the factory was still in business we had the seals replaced twice with very little change in the living room slide leak. The main problem is that our slide actually tips back towards the coach at the top so that when water gets under the topper it has nowhere to run but under the not so perfect seals. Apparently the slide cannot be adjusted to tip outwards (so we have been told).

Our fix has been to tilt the coach towards the slide side a bit when rain and wind are forecast. This has solved the leak problem and really does not seem to be much of a nuisance. One of the quirks of owning a home on wheels.
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Old 01-09-2009, 01:29 PM   #9
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In reply to all the responses it sounds like I hopefully need to make the coach tilt a bit towards the drivers side. Sounds like a great solution and I sure do hope it is that easy. Makes a great deal of sense. Thanks for all of the suggestions. You folks are really great. I can't imqgine with my wife's brilliant mind she did not think of that. Well, you know how it is, the men have to think of everything. She know tells me she did think of it, but forgot to share. So what else is new. Hi Mike
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Old 01-09-2009, 07:04 PM   #10
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Ted,
I hope tilting solves your problem, it never helped mine.

In 05 I have seen 2 types of metal wrap slide toppers on the main slide. One of them looks flat when the slide is open and one maintains a half moon shape. Mine had the type that goes flat and it leaked. It allowed water to run down the outside of the sidewall. Then into the U shaped extrusion, WRV did not seal it and it had loose, broken and rusted screws. Water would run into the extrusion and leak into the interior of the slide through the screw holes. Mine was so bad that on 90 degree sunny days water from the front AC (drain Sys not working properly) would run across the roof and on to the metal wrap of the slide topper and run down the exterior of the wall and into the extrusion and drip on the counter top. I had to remove the wood crown molding on mine to see where the problem with the seal depressor was. While I was in there I removed and sealed as many screws as I could, one was loose and rusted and one had its head broke off. It still leaked in a storm but not in that area.

In February of 05 the dealer replaced all the upper cabinets from the microwave to the back of the slide. In July of 06 I went to the factory and they had to remove the same cabinets and finally added the extra piece of wiper seal and I paid to replace the slide topper with the enclosed type. I am not sure what final fix actually fixed mine, wiper seal or slide topper or maybe both. I do know it can be fixed with no need to tilt or bring the slides in during a storm.
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Old 01-10-2009, 07:00 AM   #11
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On my 2002 and 2007, I have found that after any long or heavy rain a puddle forms on the middle of the kitchen slide topper. These both have the toppers without the metal shields. This causes the edges of the topper to slope inward toward the puddle. When the water finally starts to overflow, instead of just draining off, the water rolls over the edge and runs down the underside of the topper onto the top of the slide out. I would always prefer there to be no water on the top of the slide. I don't think that there is any way that a top seal can prevent some water from getting in at this point. If you look at how your kitchen topper drains in the rain you will see what I am talking about. After having water in the coach a few times I always use the jacks to raise one end of the coach. I do this just enough so that the "out of level" light comes on for one end of the coach. This keeps the puddle from forming and the topper drains properly.
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Old 01-10-2009, 07:22 AM   #12
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On top of my kitchen slide, there is a piece of angle iron (1" x 1") which runs the entire length of the slide ( the last few feet are aluminum angle, for whatever reason). When the slide is extended, the edge of the angle is right at the rubber wiper seal and is visible from the outside. It appears this angle was intended to prevent water from going any further.

When my slide leaked into a cabinet, I took action. I removed the topper and extended the slide. Half the screws in the angle iron were missing and it was poorly sealed. I sealed the entired length properly with urethane. Any water is now diverted to the sides of the slideout, or just pools on top of the slideout.

The top of the slide is very uneven and the wiper seal will never prevent water from running in somewhere. I have not had any leaks since the repair.
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Old 01-10-2009, 08:15 AM   #13
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Actually the way WRV added a second wiper seal on top of the original is quite effective. One of the first things I did was seal that angle the full length with 2 inch Eternabond. That fix did not stop water from being blown past the wiper seal and up and over that angle. The compression seal never contacted the same angle for the last 6 feet so water had a clear path to come in if it had enough wind blowing from the rear of the coach.
It is my understanding the straight edge used to cut the opening was hand located and the opening in each coach varied. Which would explain why the top of my opening is of an inch different from front to back.
Tilting the coach to prevent water pooling on the topper is a good idea. But will not prevent horizontal rain from coming in, If the wiper seal and or the compression seal are not doing their job. The slide also needs to be properly sealed as in the angle on top of the slide and the extrusion holding the compression seal.
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Old 01-12-2009, 06:12 AM   #14
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I figured out how to convert the Rhino file to JPEG.

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