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Old 10-21-2008, 12:25 PM   #1
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I'm currently converting my rearmost passenger side basement panel to open and lock like the other basement doors. I found a source for the handle/lock from this forum, and I found a source for the 26" gas struts, but although the hinged door panel has the strut bracket already on it, my door frame does not have the lower strut bracket. Anyone have a source? Thanks.
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:25 PM   #2
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I'm currently converting my rearmost passenger side basement panel to open and lock like the other basement doors. I found a source for the handle/lock from this forum, and I found a source for the 26" gas struts, but although the hinged door panel has the strut bracket already on it, my door frame does not have the lower strut bracket. Anyone have a source? Thanks.
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Old 10-21-2008, 01:19 PM   #3
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I am surprised you want to use the struts at all. I disconnected mine because they were pushing the door into any bush, wall, pipe etc. near the mh. It also was a long walk around an open door.
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Old 10-21-2008, 01:45 PM   #4
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I don't want to leave the door open when I am not doing something in that area, but I'd like to have it stay open when I want access. Besides, the struts were only $19.95 for the pair.
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Old 10-21-2008, 03:59 PM   #5
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Try this

Here
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Old 10-21-2008, 04:03 PM   #6
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This is their website.


McMaster-Carr
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:14 AM   #7
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Thanks for the lead Sammie. I didn't see the exact one I was looking for, but maybe an email to them might produce one, or perhaps something else might work.
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:05 AM   #8
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Hi Rick
What is your source for the gas struts? I need to replace one on my LP door but haven't found one to match up. Thanks in advance, Jim
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Old 10-23-2008, 12:09 PM   #9
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Email a fellow named Steve at ohopbob@yahoo.com

He sells the ones I needed on ebay for $19.95/pair. These were the same "Columbia" brand struts I had on my basement storage compartments. I bought the 26" units, but you will need shorter ones for your LP door, as it doesn't open as far because of the slide above. Measure yours fully extended before calling him to see if he has some. I had to buy them off of ebay as a "Buy Now" item after he posted them. I paid with Paypal. Shipping was kind of expensive at apx $12.00, but it was fast and he had what I wanted. Good Luck.
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Old 10-23-2008, 02:20 PM   #10
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Rick Fisher,

You have an SE with the Smart Beds and compartment doors that swing out side ways. These doors swing out quite far. Rick Coleman has an earlier Limited that has compartment doors that lift up and need support while lifted. They do not swing out very far when open.

If you want to keep the strut on to hold the door open, you might add a small cable or chain that could be connected near the hinge and adjusted as to how far it lets the door open.
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Old 10-23-2008, 05:55 PM   #11
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I noticed the year of his coach and realized the difference after I posted the reply. You certainly do want a strut on a top hinged door. I thought of the stop chain for my side swinging doors but just disconnecting the struts was easier and effective. By the way, Dale, I found a complete '06 manual in the tech section so don't worry about copying yours. Thanks for the offer. The coach is at Camping World where I hope they can fix my inoperative rear view video and Smartire problems. I took somebodys suggestion and bought the 14' telescoping ladder from CW instead of trying to make something else fit. The cost was about the same. Thanks everybody on that one too. I removed the SurgeGuard transfer switch because the shore power relay was not closing one leg and sent it back. I am promised a new one. Another suggestion I am taking is using plugs and receptacles instead of hard wiring the switch. This way I can wire it on the bench and if it fails again, I can plug the coach into the generator or shore power receptacles. I am telling everybody I know about how these forums are a fantastic information sharing device. Thanks to everybody who participates.
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Old 10-24-2008, 07:01 AM   #12
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Rick Fisher- Don't mean to change my own thread, but I have one of the 14' telescoping ladders too. They are great, BUT be very careful of your fingers when collapsing it. I speak from experience.
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:35 AM   #13
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Rick, I also have one of the 14' Telestep telescoping ladders, but it is the latest design incorporating a pneumatic cushion when collapsing. You still have to be cautious but it's much better than the old design where you pull the rings and try to keep your hands/fingers out of the way. :-)
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Old 10-25-2008, 11:50 AM   #14
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Thanks for the heads-up. The ladder delivered is slightly diffferent from the instructions. As John points out, it does not have the separate rings but rather two handles that are squeezed together with one hand. This collapses the first rung. When each rung hits the one below it, the locks for that rung are released and the next one comes down. I see where you want to start with your hand a few rungs above the bottom and control the telescoping in a hand over hand motion staying clear of the next one to collapse. Sort of a bottum-up version of the World Trade Towers collapse. It does not seem to have anything to slow the collapse. Have you guys done anything to cushion the ladder where it contacts the coach? Do you use it at the rear (worried about spoiler) or the side?
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