STOP ENGINE LIGHT...now what???

[StansCustoms]

Originally Posted by motofamily

Crazy question did you buy fuel anywhere different lately? I just heard about a guy who got diesel with 10% ethanol in it and it caused the rv to run funny kind of hickup skip almost like a vapor lock and cel would blink

No...in fact I bought fuel last in October. I filled up when it was $3.40 or so per gallon. Sill haven't used all that...

The motor doesn't miss or anything (not that I could hear it, I'm hearing challenged ..Artillery accident , in '69), runs very smooth all the time.

[StansCustoms]

Originally Posted by JLMunsil

In the 04 and 05 brochures it shows the Alpine rear axle ratio is 4.63 to 1. I believe in 02 it was 4.63:1 as well. So I think your 01 is also 4.63:1.

Thanks for that JL..

I bet the 2001 is the same ratio too...the chassis are identical I believe.

[StansCustoms]

Originally Posted by ulric

There are sometimes 2 message lights. One says "check engine" or something similar (for less critical glitches) and the other says "stop engine." (for really critical glitches)

If you have a unit which only uses "stop engine," that may include parameters like inadequate fuel supply along with serious ones like no oil pressure or overheat. Since your oil pressure and other visible parameters are fine, check your fuel/water separator aka primary fuel filter first.

Remove it and replace it with a new one. If that ends the problem, you have a pragmatic solution. If you really want to know more, open the old filter and inspect.

Other things can cause an inadequate fuel supply also, like a clogged fuel inlet in the tank, bad fuel pump, shedding inner neoprene coating on a fuel line, air suction, etc.

My vote is for the fuel filter/water separator and it's also the easiest to test.

That's the plan... Seems like there is a pretty good chance that may be the problem from some other posters experiences.

I would be very pleased if that's all that is wrong.

[RickO]

Originally Posted by StansCustoms

The motor doesn't miss or anything (not that I could hear it, I'm hearing challenged ..Artillery accident , in '69), runs very smooth all the time.

Artillery and accident are two words one never wants to see in the same sentence!

Thank you for your service.

Rick

[Renipladlo]

Stan, microbes in the form of bacteria and fungus are present in all diesel fuels. Long periods of fuel storage can create ideal opportunities for microbes to grow in fuel tanks. The first indication of microbial contamination is mucous-like accumulations on fuel-filters and increased requirements for fuel-filter replacement. Microbes can only be removed from the fuel system by use of a diesel fuel biocide. Either Standyne or Power Service has that stuff. Follow the directions on using it. You should find it at most auto parts stores, or truck stops.

Then change the water fuel/separator and the fuel filter on the side of the engine. Then change the genset fuel filter, as its most likely contaminated that one as well.

Diesel fuel does not sit for a long period of time well, so you need to treat the fuel about every 60 days, or every other third tank if traveling, and unless you purchase at truck stops, you don’t know how the fuel has been treated or how long it’s been sitting. I treat it bi-monthly since ours sits often. Once this has been done, and if the problem is still present, take it to Cummins they can figure it out.

Now let’s hope, that this is all it is, otherwise the injection pump, is not cheap, so that is one thing, or if you have the blue turbo hose WRV might have used on the thing, change it to the orange color one. Search here for blow turbo hose issues.

[StansCustoms]

Originally Posted by Renipladlo

Stan, microbes in the form of bacteria and fungus are present in all diesel fuels. Long periods of fuel storage can create ideal opportunities for microbes to grow in fuel tanks. The first indication of microbial contamination is mucous-like accumulations on fuel-filters and increased requirements for fuel-filter replacement. Microbes can only be removed from the fuel system by use of a diesel fuel biocide. Either Standyne or Power Service has that stuff. Follow the directions on using it. You should find it at most auto parts stores, or truck stops.

Then change the water fuel/separator and the fuel filter on the side of the engine. Then change the genset fuel filter, as its most likely contaminated that one as well.

Diesel fuel does not sit for a long period of time well, so you need to treat the fuel about every 60 days, or every other third tank if traveling, and unless you purchase at truck stops, you don’t know how the fuel has been treated or how long it’s been sitting. I treat it bi-monthly since ours sits often. Once this has been done, and if the problem is still present, take it to Cummins they can figure it out.

Now let’s hope, that this is all it is, otherwise the injection pump, is not cheap, so that is one thing, or if you have the blue turbo hose WRV might have used on the thing, change it to the orange color one. Search here for blow turbo hose issues.

Thanks Monty..

I knew about the diesel fuel treatment...just keep forgetting to do anything about it. Thanks for the reminder...I will get some this go round for sure.

I have less than 50 hours since I did a complete service on the gen set including replacing the fan belt, so hopefully it is still in good shape.

In fact we changed every fluid and filter including the hydraulic canister when I first got the coach home. "Unless" we messed up on the fuel filter somehow...as per previous post.

I remember hitting a very rough segment of highway before the SEL came on...which REALLY jostled the whole coach. In fact it spooked me pretty good. It wasn't visible till we were right on top of it.

I'm thinking that may have dislodged something in the filter ..or a wire connection or something, as I don't recall the SEL light previous to that incident.

As per one of our conversations back then...I DO have he orange turbo hoses, and the turbo connections looked good then. I was lookig for a diesel drip..when I checked the turbo hoses. I found that the fuel lift pump had a small leak, so I just installed a new pump.

[StansCustoms]

Originally Posted by RickO

Artillery and accident are two words one never wants to see in the same sentence!

Thank you for your service.

Rick

Just one of those things Rick, but thanks. After all I could have been quail hunting with Dick Cheney ...now that would have been SCARY!

[ulric]

[QUOTE=StansCustoms;859908]Thanks Monty..


I remember hitting a very rough segment of highway before the SEL came on...which REALLY jostled the whole coach. In fact it spooked me pretty good. It wasn't visible till we were right on top of it.

I'm thinking that may have dislodged something in the filter ..or a wire connection or something, as I don't recall the SEL light previous to that incident.
[QUOTE]

Most of my experience is in diesel boats. Here's what happens in them:

(1) Unused fuel sits in tank for a long time;
(2)Microbes grow;
(3)On a normal day of use, there is not a lot of turbulence in the tank;
(4)On a rough day, the tank contents are sloshed and slammed, which can transport globs of settled microbes to the fuel pickup and either allow it to become clogged, or if it does not, the mess will be transported to the first fuel filter and clog it. Then the engine won't develop power, or might even shut down.

Therefore, it creates a dangerous situation on a boat, because the engine is more likely to have problems in rough weather, when you need all the power you can get to stay on the best course or away from hazards like tugs and barges or rocks.

I once had so much sediment in a tank that when I changed the fuel filter/water separator, the engine still would not develop power. I tried sucking on the fuel line that ran directly from the fuel tank, and it was completely blocked. Pfui!

Fortunately I had a tank of compressed air and I backflushed the line with 120 psi and blew the contamination out of the fuel pickup (don't try this if your fuel pump is in the tank or between you and the tank).

The tug and barge missed me, everything ran fine after that, but my mouth tasted terrible for a day until I could get enough rum into it!.

Not saying that is applicable in your case, but I would not be surprised if it was.

[StansCustoms]

Thanks Guys..

Here's an update...things are not getting better!

I just changed the fuel /water separator filter. As per instructions on the filter...I did not prime the filter before installation...but did prime it with the electric pickup pump for about 30 seconds, till it pressured up and turned off.

Then I cranked the engine and let it idle. A couple of minutes later the engine died! Thats a first...this thning has NEVER died, unless I turned off the key. Now it won't start...

Any clues what is going on???

[Renipladlo]

You might not have gotten all the air out of the system. Turn the key on, wait 30 seconds and then turn it off and back on, wait 30 seconds, this primes the fuel system as I understand it.

[StansCustoms]

Originally Posted by Renipladlo

You might not have gotten all the air out of the system. Turn the key on, wait 30 seconds and then turn it off and back on, wait 30 seconds, this primes the fuel system as I understand it.

Thanks Monty...thats almost what I had to do, but 20 minutes apart, had a lot of air in it I guess. Finally got it going..

Had to go thru the process 3 or 4 times before it worked. I should have expected this...I never remember not priming a diesel filter on anything in the past, even small diesel engines in pickups etc.

I also took it out for a 25 mile drive...although the hills were not a long a grade as the ones on my trip, but I believe they were steep enough to have made the light come on if it was going to. Soooo the SEL issue is resolved it looks like.

Now then another issue still unresolved.... I believe the turbo is not working! ...or at least not working well. I had an opportunity around the neighborhood ...getting out in the traffic and on agrade I am accustomed to. It's NOT pulling near as hard as it was... It runs smooth but it always flat took off after the turbo spooled and just about the time it shifted to second. Now it pullos out OK but doesn't have that bigg uumph when it hits second.

Any idea how to diagnose a turbo issue...???

[EngineerMike]

The easy way is visual inspection for leak problems followed by a ride-along by tech w/Cummins software hooked up to diagnostic port @ front. ECU reports boost and the tech can read if proper boost is being delivered. VMSpc also reads boost.

Orrrrr, if you want to have some real fun, you could add a boost gauge (drill/tap a port, install fitting/tubing from engine to dash...).
According to post#13 in this thread, the ISC should be looking for ~24psi boost at the top end (if I'm reading Mike Kelley's intent correctly, that his Banks kit bumped boost from 24 to 36psi)

[StansCustoms]

Originally Posted by EngineerMike

The easy way is visual inspection for leak problems followed by a ride-along by tech w/Cummins software hooked up to diagnostic port @ front. ECU reports boost and the tech can read if proper boost is being delivered. VMSpc also reads boost.

Orrrrr, if you want to have some real fun, you could add a boost gauge (drill/tap a port, install fitting/tubing from engine to dash...).
According to post#13 in this thread, the ISC should be looking for ~24psi boost at the top end (if I'm reading Mike Kelley's intent correctly, that his Banks kit bumped boost from 24 to 36psi)

Ok Mike here we go....and thanks for a starting place.

I'll have enough stuff to start a business working on these things before I'm through I guess. I haven't had much luck farming out repairs on anything mechanical. I generally pay a ton to get something fixed than wind up doing it again myself...(after I educate myself on the procedure.)

I really did want to retire and pay someone to do this kind of thing for a change in my life...gettin' a little long in the tooth to keep crawling around on anything....especially stuff I don't have any history on.

...and it was running sooo good!

Once a mechanic always a mechanic according to my dear old Mom....guess she's right!

[StansCustoms]

By the way ..

Just how does a diesel coach act when it looses boost thru a small leak...?

...and a larger leak?

Does it still run smoothly like this one...with no black smoke at all. My wife was following me pulling a boat when the RV was feeling a little weak and activating the SEL last Thursday. She said it wasn't smoking or anything
unusual...and she would notice. She's not an average female when it comes to this type thing . She could build any gas engine...by her self. We've been at it a long time...building Custom's that is..