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Old 05-22-2011, 08:55 AM   #57
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WOW--55 responses so far and we still dont know what is causing the problem. Hard to believe that with all the filtering that goes on at the pump at major truck stops, that you got a "bad" load of fuel ["cheap" fuel at a "mon and pop" corner store can get expensive]. If it is only water, it seems like your filter drain/sensor would show it. If you did get a load of dirt in you last fill up, the bad news is that a single filter change "aint" going get it all out.
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:35 AM   #58
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WOW--55 responses so far and we still dont know what is causing the problem. Hard to believe that with all the filtering that goes on at the pump at major truck stops, that you got a "bad" load of fuel ["cheap" fuel at a "mon and pop" corner store can get expensive]. If it is only water, it seems like your filter drain/sensor would show it. If you did get a load of dirt in you last fill up, the bad news is that a single filter change "aint" going get it all out.

Well that's not exactly correct. I believe I DID get the Stop Engine Light issue resolved with a Fuel/Water filter change.. Look for this little guy five post back..

BUT..I must have two problems...because I have determined I still have a power loss. The coach runs smooth and shifts right ...just not as as much power as it it did have. I've looked at all the obvious places ..like splits in the turbo boots etc., no luck.

I'll have the VMSpc cable and JIB from Dale this afternoon..Maybe that will shed some light on the situation. The first thing I'll be looking at is boost pressure...and read the fault codes.
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:53 AM   #59
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Yep....NAILED it on post #3

Am I good, Or what!

(Modest also)
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:32 PM   #60
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Stop Engine Light means the ECU has detected an aberration that if continued would do damage to the engine; next level above that of "warning" is the engine shutting itself down. That the light disappears is good and probably means the trouble detected is very intermittent. I doubt low boost would light the SEL, but could light the yellow Check Engine Light (i.e. low boost threatens fuel economy about which Cummins don't care, but might violate smog regs which would by law light the CEL).
I believe engine has "limp mode" for allowing continued operation under bad but not lethal input parameters, which could account for low power, but that would ordinarily come w/CEL. If the SEL light comes on, there should be Diagnostic Trouble Codes present, which IIRC the Silverleaf VMSpc would report, tho you might need a Silverleaf equation to a Cummins DTC. DTCs are self-clearing in certain circumstances if the problem goes away.

Seems to me in the foggy recesses, there was once a guy whose Vehicle Speed Sensor or some such caused a problem like this, but can't find anything on a Search. I even tried Stop Engine Light and got only this thread along w/others that had unrelated instances of the three search words.

You can drain water from the water-separator/fuel-filter using the small petcock at the base; any water present should come out first. I thought there was a Water-in-Fuel light, no?

You are right MIke..

here is a water in fuel light when you first turn on the ignition...it did not register water though...AND it had plenty in it!

I have no idea what's up there....
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:51 PM   #61
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Yep....NAILED it on post #3

Am I good, Or what!

(Modest also)

'Yep you were the first..and backed up by 4 others. Thanks Guys

Now if it stays off on a longer run.....

I got my new (to me) cable and JIB today, but I can't get it working. I need to call Silverleaf in the morning and see what I'm doing wrong. The software download gave me a little trouble and I had to install a driver for the new serial to usb cable.

No telling what I have wrong...I always run into trouble on this kind of thing..

Can't wait to see if it will diagnose anything that will help me determine what the power loss is about.

Everything seems normal, oil pressure, engine temp, etc. ...but doesn't feel normal by the seat of the pants.

I've only got 3 days to get it fixed...We have a family reunion that we organize and plan the meals for. Plus we are the purchasing agent of all the food and supplies for 90 people, 4 days and 3 nights at Possum Kingdom lake.

Hopefully the Alpine gets to go too...
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:53 PM   #62
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If you picked up a buncha water, and the sensor isn't registering, you'll want to tap the water petcock every hour or so of driving to make sure you don't start sending water into the IP. Could make a mess. It will also take an indeterminate period of time/miles to get the indeterminate amount of water out of the tank.

IIWMI'd get some water-incorporating additive in the tank right away, and keep it in there till the water problem is gone. I had that once, and less than a tankful w/heavy additive cleaned it out. Sensor came on, but was out w/in 20 miles of installing the additive. I used Stanadyne's.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:33 PM   #63
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If you picked up a buncha water, and the sensor isn't registering, you'll want to tap the water petcock every hour or so of driving to make sure you don't start sending water into the IP. Could make a mess. It will also take an indeterminate period of time/miles to get the indeterminate amount of water out of the tank.

IIWMI'd get some water-incorporating additive in the tank right away, and keep it in there till the water problem is gone. I had that once, and less than a tankful w/heavy additive cleaned it out. Sensor came on, but was out w/in 20 miles of installing the additive. I used Stanadyne's.
I'm not sure I have a big water problem...more likely neglect by the previous owner, then my oversight. Still... I believe I'll take your advice to be on the safe side.

The sensor was on but went out w/in 20 miles of installing the additive.
Because it failed or what?
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:26 AM   #64
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Hmmm, treat my fuel all the time, so not real worried about water in fuel, only buy at truck stops which pump lots of fuel. But stopped at a Flying J years ago, and just after filling up the Pickup, the light came on, had to find a place and drain it. It never came on again just that one time, and I was anal about changing that filter in the pickup about every thrid oil change. I had the present w/fuel seperator changed when we purchased the coach, and they drain it annually. I don't get the light, but now with your problem, next time I am at coach, I will turn on ignition and see where it is and what it looks like. Will drain the unit at that time as well. Should not be a lot of mess then. Have a spare w/filter, in the coach, when I do the oil change next month I will change that one then, since my suggestion to Stan about getting rid of the air was good. I won't worry about that now. Seems to me someone a long time ago mentioned magnets, either in the transmission filter or this one, plese refresh my mind if you know what I'm talking about.
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:39 AM   #65
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Hmmm, treat my fuel all the time, so not real worried about water in fuel, only buy at truck stops which pump lots of fuel. But stopped at a Flying J years ago, and just after filling up the Pickup, the light came on, had to find a place and drain it. It never came on again just that one time, and I was anal about changing that filter in the pickup about every thrid oil change. I had the present w/fuel seperator changed when we purchased the coach, and they drain it annually. I don't get the light, but now with your problem, next time I am at coach, I will turn on ignition and see where it is and what it looks like. Will drain the unit at that time as well. Should not be a lot of mess then. Have a spare w/filter, in the coach, when I do the oil change next month I will change that one then, since my suggestion to Stan about getting rid of the air was good. I won't worry about that now. Seems to me someone a long time ago mentioned magnets, either in the transmission filter or this one, plese refresh my mind if you know what I'm talking about.
Magnets supposedly kill the bacteria that cause fuel clogs, and break them up. I don't use them, I treat with BioBor. If I were going to use the magnets, I'd mess around with a long series of neodymium magnets till I got it right.

Watch out for additives that emulsify water and allow it to pass through filters into the injectors, the small amounts of water hit the hot injectors and flash into steam, which can ruin the injector orifices.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:38 AM   #66
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My water incident was w/a previous motorhome. Engine started running rough & water light came on immediately. I pulled over & put the additive in the tank (had it on board), then fired up & got back on the road. My guess is that the additive incorporated, sufficiently, the available water into the fuel to more evenly pass it thru the cylinders in minute amounts so that it a) wasn't detectable in the bowl, and b) didn't present ignition problems. That's a guess. Coulda been there was only a teeny amount of water that simply passed of its own volition and the whole additive experience was coincidence.

I always carry water-incorporating additive, and never use it as a rule, just have it on board in case.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:48 AM   #67
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The magnets were incorporated into the fuel or transmission filter housing to catch metal particles. I believe they are in the transmission assembly now that I have time to sleep on this. They might do what you say, but I would use a biocide treatment to get rid of it, not magnets.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:08 PM   #68
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Well I got the VMSpc diagnostic hardware working properly with the help of the tech support at Silverleaf.

Those guys knew exactly where to go to fix it..evidently Microsoft has done so many upgrades that the mouse driver wants to take over the Com Port for the VMSpc software if you don't disconnect the usb cable from the JIB... BUT... plug the cable into the PC Com Port before you open the diagnostic program. Weird ...but works.

What I really need is an old laptop with a pre Windows XP operating system (like Win. 98) so it will work properly without having to disconnect from the JIB before opening the software on the PC.

Anyone got an antique laptop they want to get rid of ..?? Let me know...I need one to leave on the dash.

Unfortunately Silverleaf program doesn't read any Cummins stored trouble codes, only Codes that are happening when the PC is actually connected.

The good news is that the turbo is working ...but it was raining hard, and I didn't get to take it out and see what max boost is...AND there were no trouble codes displayed when the PC was hooked up. So evidently everything is working OK.

Still doesn't feel like it did by the seat of the pants to me. But at least I don't have to worry about any major issues....which is a big relief

Now that it has quit raining I'll soap up the turbo connections tomorrow...if nothing shows up there , I guess I'm just getting used to the way it runs and nothing is wrong.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:26 PM   #69
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The magnets were incorporated into the fuel or transmission filter housing to catch metal particles. I believe they are in the transmission assembly now that I have time to sleep on this. They might do what you say, but I would use a biocide treatment to get rid of it, not magnets.
The magnets I was referring to are for fuel lines and supposedly fracture the cell walls of microbes in the fuel. However, I have never fully understood how this supposedly works, so I use BioBor, which is one of several strong biocides. Some folks recommend rotating brands of biocides.

The biocides and a full tank, combined with proper filtration and frequent use, should remedy most fuel problems.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:51 PM   #70
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Hey Stan, take a quick look at this VMSpc USB Com Port #

I had trouble getting my VMSpc talking through the JIB too and learned that a lot of problems could be avoided if I assigned a com port >9 (I believe) to the VMSpc JIB.

Might help.

Rick
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