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Old 12-17-2013, 05:21 PM   #29
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Now I am curious? How warm is this: "[the engine]....runs warmer than I think it should?"
PS--when engine is cold, my engine fan rotates at 0 rpms until the wax valve begins to open.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:34 PM   #30
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I have never had a thermometer on the engine when I have thought it was warm, but I can't run up Cajon Pass without the alarm going on or at least being very close to coming on and that is without a trailer. There is also a hill Horseshoe Bend Hill in Idaho where we summer that is also a threat to the engine temp. After doing all this research I'm wondering if the Thermostatic Wax controller were to close sooner if the engine would run cooler. And, in my opinion,the wax controller acts as a bypass until the engine reaches temperature then CLOSES to send more fluid to the fan motor. That's why when I checked it I plugged the outlet on the back of the fan motor that went to the wax valve, and the fan ran at full speed. If I would have plugged it and the wax controller was closed it would have made no difference.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:50 AM   #31
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You are right that the wax valve controls the bypass fluid so that as it closes more fluid goes to the motor and the fan speeds up. If you look at my previous link to the UK supplier you will find valves available with different closing temperatures although I think it unlikely WRV installed a different one in your coach compared to everyone else. These valves can fail either open or closed and it sounds like yours is open. You may have to just remove it and do a bench test.
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:27 PM   #32
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Soooooo--give me a degree number here [even from your analog gauge]---how warm is "too" warm???????? Again, if you are climbing hills under load and are not monitoring you engine rpms, you are not getting the whole cooling story. The ISL will tend to run warmer on grades if you dont manage engine rpms [aka fan speed].
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:46 PM   #33
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You could cobble together a replacement for the wax valve. You could use stepped analog thermo-relays & partial flow control solenoid valves to progressively shut off flow in the bypass circuit that now goes to the wax valve, or a single PWM solenoid valve that makes for partial flow based on stepped voltage signal. Wouldn't be cheap, but a replacement wax unit is ~$600 at last report & a pain to obtain.
Just a thought for when the wax valve is obsolete. At that point the wax valve would become a simple plug.

Dreamer- if you are getting alarms, the ECM thinks you are overheating. Either you are or have a faulty ECM sending unit. IIWM&I a) had zero fan rpms at idle as mentioned in earlier threads, & b) was getting over temp alarms, I'd replace the ECM's temp sender for drill, & replace the wax valve (both are easy wrench jobs). The sender replacement would be less $$ than paying for diagnosis, and the combo of overheat alarm plus zero fan revs @ idle are not nothing.

WRV used an original wax valve part# B5531-09857-190. I'd ask at the UK supplier if they have or can get the replacement for that, else go for the closest model.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:51 PM   #34
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I've got over 50k on this motorhome since buying it and it is my second Apline. When I approach a grade I usually try to get a little run at it and at the bottom shift manually out of 6th gear and depending on the length of the hill will try to hold about 1800 RPMs, regardless of my speed.This has helped to keep the gauge below 210 degrees. On a four month trip to Alaska towing a 25' Stacker trailer with five Kodiaks and a Rhino in it was a challenge at times, but managed to keep the temp under 220, using this method, on some 8% grades accept on Little Skiist moutain where I had to stop and let everything cool down. But it was 8 miles of 8%. EngineerMike, where is the ECM sender located on the engine? That shouldn't be too difficult to replace.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:57 PM   #35
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Another question, someone wrote that they adjusted an allen screw on the back of something and that made the fan run. I have read all the blogs but can't seem to get back to that one.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:29 PM   #36
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Dreamer- I thought I had that sender location in my notes, but Oops. I probably figured I could easily find the thread that mentioned it when I needed it later (stoopid).
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:29 PM   #37
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:04 AM   #38
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Thank you EngineerMike. My next task is to replace that ECM sensor, I'm going to do some more research on that Wax Controller too. When I went on a search for the 190 degree the closest one I could find was a 183 degrees, that might work perfectly. I'll see then if the fan runs at cold start.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:56 AM   #39
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Reference the set screw on the motor and fan speed adjustment--seems like there was discussion of said set screw on the forum. However, as I call, the set screw allowed access to a chamber with some number of spacers or discs, the thought being that by changing the number of discs in the chamber, you could adjust fan speed. Not sure this was ever verified, but if you suspect a failing or failed wax valve, you probably dont want to mess with trying to change motor parameters.
PS-- sorry if my early input was elementary. For whatever reason, I "assumed" you were new to the "Alpine experience."
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:23 AM   #40
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The Thermo Valve is made in the UK by Dynamatic Ltd. Unfortunatley their website does not have any product info. As well as UK distributors the following are listed as their US distributors, maybe worth checking with them before importing from the UK.

Advanced Fluid Systems
Berendsen Fluid Power
Sunsource
TST Hydraulics
Flodraulic Group

I don't know if the -190 is no longer made but no one stocks that. -178, -200 and -210 seem easy to obtain.

Dynamatics does have a US sales contact (Chris.Zainer@dynamatics.net). Try him if all else fails.
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:23 PM   #41
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I ran into the following on another data search:
to diagnose a generic temp sender, cool ohms should be ~1000 to 300 (depends on ambient); at operating temp ohms should drop to under 200. Use infra-red thermometer to check actual temps vs reported.
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:57 PM   #42
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....if the sensor proves to be within parameters, might also consider checking/ replacing the engine thermostat and check the radiator stack for debris/air flow..... you may have already "been there and done that....".
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