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Old 12-15-2013, 01:22 PM   #1
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Thermostatic fan control

I'm at a loss, i have a 40' alpine w/400 isl and have no fan, whether at cold or operating temp. Is the thermostatic control located at the inlet to radiator the same as the wax valve?
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Old 12-15-2013, 01:32 PM   #2
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Is your fan driven by a belt, hydraulic, or electric? If electric, check for 12 v at the wires. If you see a thermostatic switch, check for 12 v when engine is warm. Hydraulic, check fluid levels.
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Old 12-15-2013, 01:37 PM   #3
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If your temp gauge is not past the 3/4 mark........if you have no dash lights or warning chimes......then the coach is not overheating. These diesels in RVs are never worked even close to their full potential as heavy duty truck engines. The fan is designed to come on and / or "lock-up" (same concept as an AC compressor clutch) once the engine gets to a predetermined point. If the engine temp doesn't hit that point then its not going to come on. If its not over heating have no worries. Your coach just has not reached a temp requiring the fan for cooling.

Cheers,

Jim
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Old 12-15-2013, 01:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDREAMER01 View Post

I'm at a loss, i have a 40' alpine w/400 isl and have no fan, whether at cold or operating temp. Is the thermostatic control located at the inlet to radiator the same as the wax valve?
Are you saying that your FAN has never worked since you purchased the coach?

Is your engine and transmission overheating and your dash A/C air warm?

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 12-15-2013, 04:34 PM   #5
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Ok--lets talk Alpines here--2003 and older 400 ISLs had a wax valve on the radiator to control engine fan speed. Believe all 2004 and newer [certainly by 05] have electronic controllers. Need to tell us what is happening with engine and tranny temps before we move on to controllers?
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Old 12-15-2013, 05:13 PM   #6
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I understood that with this system,at cold idle, fan speed should be around 850 RPM's and as temperature rose fan speed would increase to about 2000 RPM's. Under load or climbing a hill fan speed would increase when temp rose above 210 degrees. This all started when I had a, for lack of a better word, squealing noise under load. Subsequently I found a noisy tensioner, replaced tensioner and belt but still have the noise.That is when I made the observation about the fan.My fan at 190 is at a dead stop. I can reach under and turn it by hand.
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Old 12-15-2013, 05:18 PM   #7
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...are you overheating?
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Old 12-15-2013, 05:28 PM   #8
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My wax valve controlled fan will stay at 0 rpm until the engine/and the wax valve call for cooling. As metioned above, if you were having a problem here--it seems at some point you engine would be overtemp or atleast on thehigh side of warm. Are you saying the fan doesn t run even after you leave road at hiway speed/ops temp? One thing you can do is disconnect the hydraulic hoses at the wax valve and temp connect the two hoses with a coupler--this should cause the fan to run at full-speed, all the time. However, I wont mess with hoses until I was sure the fan never comes on--but again, seems like this would cause an high temp or overheat situation at some point?????
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Old 12-15-2013, 05:56 PM   #9
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If your not overheating and driving normally don't worry about it. I opine the engine hasn't reached a temp point where it needs additionally cooling from the fan or it only reaches this temp while driving when you are not able to observe the fan operating.

Don't look for a problem that doesn't exist if your not having any over heat or temp issues.
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:28 PM   #10
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I understand not inviting trouble, but I know for a fact the fan worked before. What started me inquiring was the strange noise on the way home from our last trip, I still have the noise and did notice a slight rise in temp coming home. Old Scout, can you tell me is the Wax valve the one on the radiator inlet?
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:01 PM   #11
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The wax valve is a small, round knob in the top, rear corner of the radiator, pointing in toward the engine. You can trace the two thin hydraulic control hoses that go from the hydraulic fan motor to the wax valve. If you do decide to disconnect the hoses to check operation of the fan motor, besure to mark which hose goes where on the wax valve. Again, I was thinking the fan motor runs at full speed with the two hoses connected together but it could be opposite, eg, both hoses capped. Either way it wont hurt if you connect or cap them--on second thought, try capping each first.
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:15 PM   #12
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I understand not inviting trouble, but, I know for a fact the fan use to run, and I certainly appreciate all the responses I am getting. But I did notice a slight increase in temp on my last trip home. Maybe someone can tell me if the Wax controller is the part inserted in the radiator by the inlet>
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:40 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by TDREAMER01 View Post
I understand not inviting trouble, but, I know for a fact the fan use to run, and I certainly appreciate all the responses I am getting. But I did notice a slight increase in temp on my last trip home. Maybe someone can tell me if the Wax controller is the part inserted in the radiator by the inlet>
If it's the only wax valve on the radiator, and it's got hydraulic hoses connected, I'm guessing that's it! Experiment and try as Old Scout said, see if the comes on.

You could also drive the RV with the bed up and place someone with eyes on the fan to see if it engages. I find it hard to believe you could drive any distance with no fan at all before the dash gauges/lights would tell you it was hot.
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Old 12-15-2013, 09:01 PM   #14
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On the 2004 triple slide the bed does not raise so thats not an option. Tomorrow I will cap off the Wax valve lines and let everyone know what the outcome is. Thanks to all of you for your guidance.
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