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Old 04-24-2018, 06:05 PM   #1
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To DIY or not DIY

So I have watched a few videos and done lots of reading. I am pretty set that I will complete the full service on the generator myself:
-Oil change and filter
-Fuel filter
-Air filter
-Coolant flush

I am also very confident in the following on the motor:
-Oil and filter
-Fuel filters

I am unsure and looking for advice on:
-Transmission drain, filters and refill
-Coolant flush on the motor (just due to volume)

What is everyone's thoughts? Fluid disposal isn't an issue, but collection of 14ish gallons of coolant, 14 gallons of water and flush chemical and 14 gallons of final water flush seems like a pain. As for the transmission, it seems straight forward.

Also, the local service center I found is quoting 3 hours for the coolant flush and 3 hours for the transmission service. Watching the transmission service video, it seems that shouldn't be anymore than 2 hours for a professional.

Any thoughts and advice are appreciated!
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:36 PM   #2
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Agree with your assessment--engine coolant and flush creates a lot of waste to dispose of.....tranny change is pretty straight-forward....proper torqueing filter pan bolts is critical, along with making sure the O-rings stay in place. You left a number of items off from the last post, eg, brake fluid, hydraulic fluid, differential, desiccant cartridge, etc??????
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:53 PM   #3
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I was considering a coolant change but decided to test it first. The report came back showing that the coolant was good as new so I did nothing.

Other then that I've done all the preventative maintenance on my coach other then a radiator change when it got damaged by road debris.
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:25 PM   #4
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Chassis Lube?
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:48 PM   #5
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....good catch on chassis lube---so here is a trivia question--how many grease zerks [plus or minus one zerk] are there on the Alpine chassis?????
PS--this is a great question to ask your local repair shop after they grease your rig.
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
Agree with your assessment--engine coolant and flush creates a lot of waste to dispose of.....tranny change is pretty straight-forward....proper torqueing filter pan bolts is critical, along with making sure the O-rings stay in place. You left a number of items off from the last post, eg, brake fluid, hydraulic fluid, differential, desiccant cartridge, etc??????
I would gladly accept some assistance in accomplishing those as well.

Old Scout, do you have a listing of where all the zerk fittings are? Is there a recommended grease from WRV?

Is hydraulic fluid something easily accomplished? I've read some different things through research as to what fluid to use. Do you have a recommendation? Part number for the filter?

What is the periodicity for the rear differential? I didn't see anything in the manuals, but I have just started reading through everything. What is your oil of choice for this? I assume it's just draining and refilling?

I didn't even know about the desiccant cartridge. Is there a how-to anywhere? Part number?

Once again, thanks for all the great insight. I just changed the toilet ball and seals tonight
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Old 04-25-2018, 12:00 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
....good catch on chassis lube---so here is a trivia question--how many grease zerks [plus or minus one zerk] are there on the Alpine chassis?????
PS--this is a great question to ask your local repair shop after they grease your rig.


13....
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Old 04-25-2018, 12:09 AM   #8
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I am still figuring out the same issues.

There are some good post here on Allison transmissions. After reading it and consulting with friends with lots of heavy equipment experience, I paid $530 for synthetic fluid and filter changes. It is a piece of mind thing. In the future I will extend intervals based on samples.

I change oil and filters twice a year. I do it once myself and have Speedco the next time. This includes a lube, fuel filter change, and testing the antifreeze.

The other thing to consider is how else you could be using your time.
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:44 AM   #9
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....Once again, Dr Dave wins the prize. In fact, 13 on the 2004 and newer; 14 on the 2003 and older.....I reserve the right to be wrong on the older coaches as I often get burnt guessing on how WRV built them [smile].....
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Old 04-25-2018, 08:05 AM   #10
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Allison does NOT recommend a transmission flush.

Best to go by any Allison dealer and buy the Allison filter kit and a 5 gallon pail of Transynd. Job is EASY. Be sure to use an inch-lb torque wrench on the filter housing bolts.

Brett
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Old 04-25-2018, 10:38 AM   #11
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Don't mean to take this far off topic but feel compelled to ask...
Do you have an adequate set of ramps or jack stands?
Make sure you tackle the DIY tasks SAFELY?
'nuff said
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Old 04-25-2018, 02:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
....Once again, Dr Dave wins the prize. In fact, 13 on the 2004 and newer; 14 on the 2003 and older.....I reserve the right to be wrong on the older coaches as I often get burnt guessing on how WRV built them [smile].....


When I have taken the coach to Speedco I tell them I am going to quiz them on the number of Zerks when they are done, so be sure to count. One time they said 12, so I told them that was not the right number, go back and try again (they missed the fitting on the steering column.
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:19 PM   #13
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To DIY or not DIY

I happened to need a chassis lube before leaving on trip and so did the process on my 2000 model today. Found 14.
Starting from the front:
1 on the steering column u-joint
1 on the steering column slip joint
1 on the brake pedal pivot under the floor
1 on the driver's side (ds) ball joint on the pitman arm to drag link
1 on the ds ball joint on the drag link to ds spindle
1 on the ds lower king pin
1 on the ds upper king pin
1 on the ds tie rod end
1 on the passenger side (ps) upper king pin
1 on the ps lower king pin
1 on the ps tie rod end
1 on the forward driveshaft U-joint
1 on the drive shaft slip joint
1 on the back driveshaft U-joint

I'm not sure that's correct list or correct suspension terms but that's what I inventoried. Can anybody help refine the list? What is not there on newer coaches? The brake pivot maybe?
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Old 04-25-2018, 09:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbenalpine View Post
I happened to need a chassis lube before leaving on trip and so did the process on my 2000 model today. Found 14.
Starting from the front:
1 on the steering column u-joint
1 on the steering column slip joint
1 on the brake pedal pivot under the floor
1 on the driver's side (ds) ball joint on the pitman arm to drag link
1 on the ds ball joint on the drag link to ds spindle
1 on the ds lower king pin
1 on the ds upper king pin
1 on the ds tie rod end
1 on the passenger side (ps) upper king pin
1 on the ps lower king pin
1 on the ps tie rod end
1 on the forward driveshaft U-joint
1 on the drive shaft slip joint
1 on the back driveshaft U-joint

I'm not sure that's correct list or correct suspension terms but that's what I inventoried. Can anybody help refine the list? What is not there on newer coaches? The brake pivot maybe?


My coach has two on each U-joint. That (drive line) should be done every 3K IIRC.
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