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Old 05-18-2010, 12:44 PM   #1
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trans only overheating 06 36 MDDS

When idling for extended time, slow traffic etc, the trans climbs to 220 and more, the engine has NEVER reached above 210. I have no a/c fan request (saur-danfoss?), the vansco has a cir 10 request (fan?) when a/c is initiated. I changed filters & fluid after the first overheat, used "approved" fluid from Alison Dealer (same spec as unobtainableTrans Syn), no change. Does the trans send a fan request to the vansco upon reaching set temp? The fan runs at apx 500 rpm (professional guesstimate), I have seen the fan jump to high speed for apx 5 seconds, then return to slow turning. The fan seems to expell the air radially from the blade ends (vertically) and not from the blade sides (horizontally). Thanks to all, this forum is a great help.
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:06 PM   #2
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Have you checked for dirt in the radiator? Where is your trans oil cooler? See this post.
Radiator Air Flow Problems
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:14 PM   #3
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Yes, I blew it out with compressed air as well as pres washed (did not bend fins), I am now going from the inside out (vac and air pres), the cooler is mounted alone at the bottom of the cooler grouping.
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:29 PM   #4
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IIRC from Q&A @ a gearhead session w/Allison, using Transynd type fluid, no sweat till you are over 250 on the tranny.
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Old 05-19-2010, 12:35 PM   #5
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Thanks Dale & Mike, as a mechanic I must correct my first cursory inspection report, the trans cooler is in the side tank, the pictures of the air gaps looked exactly like mine, I am filling the gaps today. Has anybody used thermal blankets on the exhaust side to further isolate/insulate the rad stack? I am still curouis about the saur-danfoss, I disconnected the signal wire and it pulled a cat 5 level volume of air through the stack. At idle, there is a constant flow which leads me to belive the air gap reduction will improve the low speed/idle in drive temp spikes. The vansco registers an output 10 (@batt box) when ac is on (fan req?), yet no fan, in checking for power on the signal wire, do I use chassis ground or a "return circuit" to the vansco? Too many issues, too little time! Thanks for the assistance, first round is on me.
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:39 PM   #6
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cquember:

We have the same 06 36MDDS you have, even the same color. We have had our tranny temp go over 250 twice, and give me a warning light in the Speedometer. Both times were while sitting at a long stop light on a 95 degree+ day going east out of El Paso waiting to get on I-10 while exiting the Flying J. These occurred a year apart. Those are the only times the tranny has ever got above 228 degrees, which we have seen a time or two sitting in traffic or climbing a long hill in the Rockies on a hot day while heavily loaded.

What I do when I have to sit a long time in traffic, which I learned at the Flying J above, is to shift the tranny to neutral quickly after I stop, then shifting it back to Drive with my foot off the brake (so I don't get a "lurch" of torque), when I'm ready to go. When I shift it to neutral it cools quickly below the threshold or doesn't get up there to start with.

Sounds like a cumbersome procedure but it's really pretty easy to do when it's warm out and you're stopping a lot, and it really keeps the temperature down.
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Old 05-20-2010, 11:25 PM   #7
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Interesting these are both 06 rigs. Our 06 had no call for fan at idle, and both engine & trans would go unusually high on temp. The fan wasn't turning at all or at least very much at idle. Was told fan should be ~800 rpm min at all times. They replaced the fan controller and I was told it wad "defective" but it sounded like it had the wrong program. I wonder if having Saur-Danfoss read the program in your fan controllers would show an error and indicate a replacement controller to fix the problem?
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:02 AM   #8
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After going across the country and back in all kinds of waather and towing a Jeep Wrangler, we never experienced the issues discussed. However, we never had to sit in traffic for a long time, and it was only hot (95+) maybe one time. That being said, the highest temp on the tranny in normal loading, with hills and valleys was 207, and then we would hit a pit stop and cool down the engine so we could like fix lunch. Once I shut down and we ate and got back on the road, the tranny was down to 189 or even less so I did not worry about it. Now the highest engine temp we ever got was going over Mount Hood, OR, on a hot day, and it warned me at 217 Degrees, I pulled over and it immediately started cooling down, once it hit 185 I pulled back on the road. I did get out and check to make sure the fans were turning, and we had no coolant loss or anything. Otherwise the highest temps were 199 in Eastern Oregon going up a few passes, started down the other side and back to 188 or so, which is normal when pulling the jeep. No Jeep, it runs 180-182 all the time.

We had a small sideswipe with an older jeep, and I broke the front metal strap which secures the radiator shroud (grill on the outside of the coach) and I need to have that welded back, and don't know where all the bolts which hold that shroad on are, but then I have not looked very closely yet. Does the shroud come off or is it permentently affixed to the side (at the top) of the coach? If not, then I will take it off and take it someplace to be welded, otherwise I have to have a portable unit come to the house, and do the reweld. It will take longer to set up the job than the job will take.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:16 AM   #9
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Monty,

The grille lifts off when it's unbolted at the bottom, assuming you have the ISL 400 engine. You just raise the shroud and it comes off (two person job). Our shroud kept breaking the welds that held it attached at the bottom, so I just cut them off and bolted the shroud to the attachments, by drilling holes in the bottom of the shroud and using small aluminum angle stock to reattach it. The bolted solution has not broken in two years. I'm guessing your sideswipe is at the top, hence the question about unbolting and lifting it off.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:39 AM   #10
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Thank you. The bottom of the unit is what hit. Had the exhaust pipe not extended out as far, I would have never touched the other car. The exhauset pipe strpped all the plastic moulding off the car and had a few dnets in it which I streightened out with a crescent wrench. If I had a mandrel (like the exhaust shops use) I could make if perfectly round again, but I don't. Maybe some day I will see about it, no big deal. Suprising the MH did not get any serious damage, and the few marks just blend in with the scratches from the blackberries we have up at the farm. Thankfully no one was hurt. Now the co-pilot freaks out whenever I make a lane change.
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