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Old 07-26-2011, 10:04 AM   #1
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Transfer switch

Last weekend my generator was running but no power was getting to the coach. I took my 06 40 ft Alpine to the Cummins dealer and they say the generator is working fine but the transfer switch is bad. The inverter is working and the switch goes to shore power when plugged in. One year ago I had this switch replaced. Seems odd it would fail so quickly. Any ideas? Thanks, Doug
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:13 AM   #2
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We lost power from genny and it turned out to be the circuit board for the time delay. If this is the case with yours, you can by pass the circuit board by flicking a tiny dip switch located inside your transfer box.
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:28 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nssracer View Post
Last weekend my generator was running but no power was getting to the coach. I took my 06 40 ft Alpine to the Cummins dealer and they say the generator is working fine but the transfer switch is bad. The inverter is working and the switch goes to shore power when plugged in. One year ago I had this switch replaced. Seems odd it would fail so quickly. Any ideas? Thanks, Doug
You ask for an opinion so here is mine.


The year of your Alpine is not listed but your join date is 2009. If that is the year of your rig then your old switch lasted as long as the new one-----I can't imagine these going out so often--mine is nine years old and I would be weepy if it quit tomorrow. Sounds to me like something else is going on in there----or just bad switches. Maybe try a different manufacturer of switches this time.

Or some Alpine type will be along and have something definate.

Good luck to you.
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:46 PM   #4
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When the xfer switch goes bad it goes bad, whether a month or ten years. I've been on sales lots w/the xfer switch in a brand just-delivered new coach was bumping on/off/on/off...

Just make sure they checked that proper gen power (120V) was coming into the xfer switch and not switching (not just that the gen was "working" according to somebody's definition) before they replace xfer. Sometimes they have a dumb test that doesn't really test the component properly.
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:59 PM   #5
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The contacts on the switch are not made for switching high current. If switching between shore power and the generator or vice versa don't switch more than 5 to 6 amps.
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:20 PM   #6
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I just order a new power relay for my transfer switch it's rated at 30 amps.The coil was bad in the old one. replace it myself. cost for new relay 37.00 got it online
www.onlinecomponent.com Oh yea mine a 1991 MH
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EngineerMike
Sometimes they have a dumb test that doesn't really test the component properly.
Would that be the part where I hold onto the output genset cable ends to tell you it's working?:-)
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:58 PM   #8
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nssracer,

If you are comfortable using a Multimeter around alternating current, you can test the GenSet input to the transfer switch yourself. The transfer switch is in the basement, located on most model years attached to the ceiling area of a basement cross member.

Do NOT do this if you don't feel skilled at this task. If you DO feel skilled at this type of electrical measurement work, simply take the cover off the transfer switch and measure the voltage on the input to the transfer switch when the GenSet is running, then measure the voltage on the output of the transfer switch. Do the same type measurements when connected to shore power, then make comparisons. You should be able to diagnose whether proper voltage is getting to the transfer switch from the GenSet.

If you don't want to do this measurement yourself, then ask the Cummins technician what his test results were in doing what I described.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:37 AM   #9
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If the tech's idea of the generator working, includes only that it is running, it could just be the breaker on the generator is tripped and not sending power. Mine does that occasionally, especially when I abuse it by overloading it.

As mentioned, if your are okay using a multimeter, just follow the flow.
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:01 PM   #10
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Takepride,

I had the same thing happen with the circuit breaker on the generator. But only once so far. Not sure what made me look at it. I was ready to get the multimeter out.
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:08 PM   #11
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If your Transfer Switch is an IOTA, Get rid of it and never buy another one. It's a POS.

Replace it with an ESCO Transfer Switch and you won't be sorry.

Only My Opinion.

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Old 07-27-2011, 08:09 PM   #12
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Tom- Wish I could be there for the test, but I can't. Have Patty video the process and post the link here so we can all have the benefit of the outcome
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Old 07-28-2011, 12:30 AM   #13
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Tom- Wish I could be there for the test, but I can't. Have Patty video the process and post the link here so we can all have the benefit of the outcome
Especially if you're not good with a multi-meter!
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Old 08-01-2011, 02:27 AM   #14
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My 2007 has the Surgeguard transfer switch. The little Surgeguard panel shows the voltage on each leg of the "50" amp system. Inside the box are three relays (called contactors by some) that switch the two legs and the neutral from shore to generator power. One of the contactors failed so it wasn't switching. I was able to push a button on the contactor to complete the circuit but it would not hold. Surgeguard repaired it under warranty but the box is a bear to remove. It is hard wired so all the heavy wires have to be removed to get the box out. When I re-installed it I used three sets of "50" amp connectors which i wired on short lengths of cable to the box. After installation, I just plugged it in. If it fails again, I can replug the coach feed directly in to the shore line. The problem with this solution is the connectors are expensive and there is not much room for all the cables around the box.
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