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11-25-2014, 11:03 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 25
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Transfer Switch burned up
I need a replacement transfer switch for my 98 Alpine 36fds. The original transfer switch had been replaced and there are no markings or product identification information on the replacement. Any ideas on what (ie manufacturer and product number) I should be looking for as a replacement.
Thanks in advance for any assistance and Happy Thanksgivng to all!
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11-25-2014, 11:26 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,400
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Recommend the Lyght x-fer switch with the DC voltage contactors [less hum/chatter].....Some units combine both x-fer and surge protection functions--I prefer separate devices...
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Old Scout
2015 IH45 Foretravel
2003 Alpine 40' MDTS [Sold]
New Braunfels, Texas
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11-25-2014, 12:36 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Charleston, WV
Posts: 3,469
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The original was the Power Switch TS50S made by Todd Engineering. They are no longer in business so you need an alternative.
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John and Mary Knight
2015 Newmar Ventana 4311 - wheelchair accessible
2015 Cadillac SRX Luxury AWD
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11-25-2014, 12:57 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cosby, Tn
Posts: 6,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Algoma
The original was the Power Switch TS50S made by Todd Engineering. They are no longer in business so you need an alternative.
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Esco makes very reliable transfer switches.
Steve Ownby
Full time since '07
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Steve Ownby
Full time since 2007
2003 Monaco Signature
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11-25-2014, 04:12 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 7,882
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Two things cause the vast majority of ATS failures:
Transferring under load-- arcs/pits the points.
Loose connections=resistance=heat= more resistance= melted insulation and more resistance= failure.
With all 120 VAC disconnected/off (shore power, generator and inverter), open the ATS annually and tighten all connections.
And, do not transfer power sources under load (i.e. turn off A/C, water heater, etc BEFORE changing power sources).
Brett
2003 Alpine 38
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11-27-2014, 08:04 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 25
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Thanks all. Found replacement at Camping World.
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11-28-2014, 04:14 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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There are basically only two types of transfer switches, possibly a second x2 on the list (I will get to that)
The Transfer switch I have if there is no power.. then it SHORE is connected, applying shore power to the RV does nothing (The switch is already in the proper position)
Starting the generator causes the switch to activate, after a time in period it connects the RV to the generator output.
I have seen one that uses two sets of contactors (or possibly 3), more on that in part 2)
When no power is present it is disconnected, Plug into shore and it pulls in one set,, Start the generator it pulls in a 2nd set..
The part 2 is that this type may also have a 3rd set for inverter power, But as I recall it did not.
However,, You can replace any t-way (Shore/Generator) switch with any other provided it will fit in the space provided,, Not need to get an exact same make/model they all do the same job, they all have the same connections.
Only thing you need worry about is the size (30/50) cause that's different, and in 30's you may have a difference if there are two air conditioenrs. (you can use the two A/C switch in any case you will just have some terminals not connected is all)
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Home is where I park it!
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11-28-2014, 07:36 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 836
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This brings up an interesting question (in my mind any ways). Should the transfer switch default to generator or shore power?
I don't know which product Florida Egg purchased but I was reading the description associated with the TRC product at CW and noticed that it defaults to the generator. I'm pretty sure my '03 transfer switch (WRV original) also defaults to generator. I can hear a loud "thud" when connecting to shore power but not the generator.
If you rely on shore power more than the generator why wouldn't defaulting to shore power be better? I would also assume that even the TRC product could be wired "basically backwards" to establish shore power as the default position. Having the default position of shore power means that there's no power transition (relay operation) required and therefore less likely to have a problem (again assuming that you need shore power more than generator power). Am I missing something?
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Bob Bowers (Surprise, AZ)
2003 Alpine Coach 40' FDTS
2014 Jeep Cherokee Lattitude
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