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Old 09-10-2012, 10:40 AM   #1
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Transfer Switch II - Update

Hi All,

This is what we found: SurgeGard input side had loose ground buss from incoming cable. Output side had barely connected wires to power buss and a loose single copper conductor ground wire. Circuit breaker panel revealed loose neutrals and a couple of loose grounds. All was tightened and the power issue went away. Now, if I can just get the rear air-conditioner fan bearing failure fixed, I'll be good to go for the next desert trip!
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:56 AM   #2
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Glad you found it, on getting our coach the first thing I did was go around and tighten everything including the lugs in the breaker boxes. Most everything that would turn was a bit loose. They don't call these things rolling earthquakes for nothing. Most of the lugs in the breakers were a bit loose.

The most surprising thing was all the drawers that were sticking now work flawlessly after tightening the mounting screws.
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:34 PM   #3
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Interesting sidebar--I routinely check/tighten all of the common/accessable electrical connections on a yearly basis [most of the time]. Anyway, after years of annual checks, I had to replace the stand alone xfer switch on our 03. When I went to remove the 50amp wires, I realized that one of the wires had gotten loose at some point and had actually arc welded the set screw. Result--the wire remained loose in the slot but because the setscrew was welded inplace, it gave the appearance of being tight. With the power off of course--I recommend you check the wires themselves by wiggling/pulling them. This may have been a one-off situation but giving the wires a tug may be good practice in addition to checking set screws.
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:26 PM   #4
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SDcyclist--curious as to how your AC fan bearing problem was diagnosed. Assuming you have the Dometic Penguin series, the two cage fans are mounted on either end of a "thru-shaft" electric motor. Generally, electric motor bearings are pretty durable. It is certainly possible that the motor bearing has failed but am more incline to think one of the cage fans has gotten mis-aligned/off-balance and is rubbing against the shroud.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:36 PM   #5
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Transfer Switch II - Update

Old Scout,

My assessment was based on the sounds. After the air was on for about 15 min, I heard a metallic whining sound coming from the rear AC unit. When the environment controller was turned off, the whining sound wound down like a fan coasting down.

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Old 09-12-2012, 01:30 PM   #6
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Trouble shooting and target fixation

I am glad you found the problem before you got fixated on the inverter as the problem. I am guilty of fixing non-problems regularly.

As a new owner I am reading lots of posts here and see that a number of folks have found loose cable connections that have fixed mysterious problems.

I am reminded--again--of some wise advice given me by an airline mechanic friend. Troubleshoot the cheap stuff first. This advice came after replacing the carburetor and then the fuel pump [I already had on hand] on a 1948 Ford only to find out I had run out of gas. The gas gauges on these old cars are notoriously inaccurate. I have to be reminded of this periodically after spending serious money to not fix something, but in the process finding the real problem was something simple that I overlooked.

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Old 09-15-2012, 03:53 AM   #7
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All - About 4 years ago when we purchase ours in 08 we lucked out by being informed about this forum and my advice to all unless you are senior owners (having owned one for a long time), is to go back to the beginning of 08 and read all the forum posts to the present, especially ones related to the electrical issues 2008. You will find that WRV did not have electrical QA to speak of.

The following areas of electrical should be checked at least every other year, and NOW if you have never checked it or had it checked.

1. The Genset Leads where they enter the junction box in the roof of the generator compartment. WRV used the incorrect sized wire nuts, many of them were loose and in one case the owner almost had a fire. They need to be tightened, and the correct sized wire nuts used to secure those connections. There are four of them in that box.

2. Surge guard incoming and outgoing connections all need to be checked for tightness. Mine were all loose when I checked.

3. The electrical 120V Circuit Breaker Panels, the inverter circuit panel, and the 12V fuse panels located near the 120V connections. Plus the 12V connections in the HWH pump bay, WRV used the incorrect size crimp on connectors and the wires pull out of them. Any electrical connection you can gain access to should be checked for tightness. All grounds on the engine PS, forward near where the Transmission and engine meet should be checked. All the solenoids near the air dryer unit and around the battery compartment should be checked for tightness.

4. In the back left rear of the battery compartment, you should place a 1/8-1/4" thick piece of plywood type board behind the battery on the rear bulkhead and center bulkhead to prevent that battery post from arching and causing a fire, several owners have had that happen, one owners coach took a year to be fixed after his fire, one owner coach was totaled.

5. Check the 50A DC connection through the firewall in the front PS side of the coach (make sure there is no power on, disconnect batteries as a safety measure), and ensure this post is tight, and the connections on that post are tight.

Basically any and all electrical connections you can see, or get too, need to be checked. We own an earthquake going down the road, it shakes, rattles, and rolls, bumps, jumps, and things get lose and need to be tightened. You the owner, if doing this every time you find one, will prevent and keep your unit working better than when it left the factory.
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:15 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8dave View Post
I am glad you found the problem before you got fixated on the inverter as the problem. I am guilty of fixing non-problems regularly.

As a new owner I am reading lots of posts here and see that a number of folks have found loose cable connections that have fixed mysterious problems.

I am reminded--again--of some wise advice given me by an airline mechanic friend. Troubleshoot the cheap stuff first. This advice came after replacing the carburetor and then the fuel pump [I already had on hand] on a 1948 Ford only to find out I had run out of gas. The gas gauges on these old cars are notoriously inaccurate. I have to be reminded of this periodically after spending serious money to not fix something, but in the process finding the real problem was something simple that I overlooked.

Regards,
In the past, I've been known to fix stuff until it broke.
Now days, I break stuff so I have something to do.
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