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Old 03-25-2013, 08:48 PM   #15
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Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Selah, WA
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Like Kraig, my 06 antenna booster on-off switch (with red light) was accessible on the wall up behind the TV. It was basically left on all the time. I just noticed that there is a 15A fuse labeled TV Booster in my bathroom fuse box on my 09, so I assume there is a fuse somewhere on your coach too.

Terry McGuire
09 Alpine Limited SE 36FDTS
14 Chev Silverado Toad
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:10 PM   #16
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Anyone have or know where I can get a wire diagram of a Winegard Sensar Antenna RV-2005 booster circuit? I have a 2008 Monaco Cayman XL 35SBD and sometime after replacing all my house batteries I noticed I no longer have TV reception. I found the booster box. It has a tiny push button that I can operate to the in or out posistion; but the little red led never comes on. And in set up mode Antenna Setup - DIGITAL option is grayed out on the front TV and though operational on the back TV the Antenna Setup - DIGITAL option indicates absolutely zero signal. Any ideas? Blown fuse maybe? I was thinking to try and run a long 75 co-ax cable directly from the antenna to the TV to see if I get any reception at all.

The RoadBurds
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:03 PM   #17
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Pretty simple circuit 12v provides power to the plate you are speaking of The push button you are speaking of is the off on switch. When you push the button in you should get a red light no red light no power. When the button is pushed in the plate provides power to the booster circuit located in the antenna head. Sounds like you have no power to the plate. Running a coax from the TV to the antenna head will do nothing as you still will not be providing power to the booster in the antenna head
Tom and Sue
2005 Alpine FDQS
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:06 PM   #18
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Outstanding! I'll search for it in mine. On the night shift so I'll have to check it tomorrow morning. Thanks for the quick response.
The RoadBurds
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:43 PM   #19
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FWIW-The antenna booster is most likely located in the mess of wires and stuff behind the TV compartment at the front of the coach (overhead). You will have to remove the cover plate (mine is Velcroed in) to gain access. Now look up and if you see a white box, with a light on it glowing, the booster is on, it's usually controlled by the switches which control the Stereo, TV, etc. Now you are back to checking the wires and the roof antenna connection. WRV's wiring was one of the worst I have ever seen, and the rats nest up in that compartment does not help. I would figure out which wire is for the outside antenna, and do a continuity check of that wire to see if it's even getting a signal from the antenna, if not, most likely the ends are not done correctly. You should have lots of extra wire, so replacing the ends is not that big of a deal. NOW, with that said, Home Depot and Lowe's both have a nice little IDEAL tool for around 28 dollars, which has the compression tool, a stripper device w/cutter tool and a holder. The ends can be purchased in a bottle of 50 and that costs another 26 dollars. Those are the best ends we can get except for the tool/ends the satellite guys have, they are almost the same thing. I keep a bottle of the ends, and the tool kit with me when ever I travel, to fix my issues, and to help the fellow next to me who don't have a clue. If you want to take the time, fix all of them, and then the ones up on the roof under the cover. I would put a little NO-OX-ID Special A (do an internet search for the stuff) dielectric grease on any exposed wires on the roof, it protects them keeping water out.
Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:46 PM   #20
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I would agree with Monty about using the compression type of connectors on the coax cables, although I bought a Datashark brand of stripper and Monoprice "professional" crimper online instead. I also bought a package of PPC Ex6XLPlus weather sealing connectors for $14 for 50. The Amazon reviews for the connectors were excellent, almost all 5's, some by people claiming to be DIRECTV installers, etc. Probably no different than what Monty used. But they are far better and more reliable than the crimp type of connectors.

For short runs in the entertainment center area I used the C2G brand of minicoax cables. They are much more flexible than the RG-6, and much easier to work with in the rat's nest Monty described. I have never had signal problems using them, satellite or OTA. I leave the heavy coax in the back and use the minicoax to connect to the satellite receiver, A/B switch, antenna booster, etc.

I just found sources for making my own minicoax cables using the high quality compression type fittings. I intend to try them out when I have the time. These minicoax cables are like what Winegard used on their Trav'ler dish. (Don't ask how/why I know that.)
Jim A
'04 Alpine Coach 36' MDDS
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:03 AM   #21
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The booster itself is normally in the antenna, inside your choach is a power supply/switch, HOWEVER you said sometihng critical "one analog station" Is your TV capable of recieving over the air digital (ATSC) signals or just digital cable?

This may be your issue.. ATSC stations have numbers like 7-1 (Always a 2 part number).

Suspects include blown fuse (no power to antenna) bad switch, BAD COAX and bad antenna

Antennas from worst to best per test by another forum member

Batwing (Unaided)
Batwing with wingman

And from my own tests Batwing+Wingman+sensar Pro. Which I'm watching as I type.,

Home is where I park it!
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