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Old 10-20-2018, 10:49 PM   #1
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Question Upgrade solar?

I'd like to have the batteries maintained while the coach is stored, with no shore power nigh.



I measured only 1.4v DC at the solar panel input wires on the charger, with decent sun angle and intensity. Atop the roof is the optional 100w panel which appears okay and another, much smaller panel that looks fried. It's likely the 10w panel (both shown on MSRP). The measured voltage seems to indicate neither panel is providing much juice.



The ASC unit is basic, not the compensated model. The maual assures compatibility with any source, as long as maximum voltage and amperage imputs are not exceeded.



If anyone has upgraded the coach panel(s), how did you do it? there' easily room for three large panels mid-aft rooftop.



New charge controller?
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Old 10-20-2018, 10:56 PM   #2
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It sounds like you need to do more trouble shooting, check voltage at the output from the big panel during full sunlight, etc. Without knowing more details it is hard to guess the problem, but if I had to guess, I would guess wiring issues, or perhaps charge controller failure. You can buy a import pwm charge controller for a 100 watt panel off amazon for under $20 these days, ...
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Old 10-21-2018, 12:20 AM   #3
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...when it comes to solar on RVs, it seems there are two kinds of applications: 1- is the minimum required to keep up batteries, like your situation; and 2- a major investment to become self-sufficient off the grid for dry camping. Folks in the first category often get discourage by the complexity and expense and look for a shore power solution. Folks in the latter category get the solar bug and tend to go all out with upgraded panels, controllers, batteries, and inverters.
If you don't want to "invest" in new panels, new controller and new wiring, and the labor to install--I would: 1-get an assessment of your current equipment to see if something can be easily/cheaply fixed; or 2-look at a portable suitcase set-up for storage. Either way, something in the range of 100-200watts should do it--the 10watt panel is pretty much useless. In the meantime, disconnecting the battery cables while in storage will isolate your bats from any phantom draws.
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Old 10-21-2018, 06:27 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whalepirot View Post

I measured only 1.4v DC at the solar panel input wires on the charger, with decent sun angle and intensity. Atop the roof is the optional 100w panel which appears okay and another, much smaller panel that looks fried. It's likely the 10w panel (both shown on MSRP). The measured voltage seems to indicate neither panel is providing much juice.

I assume that the 1.4VDC was measured at the controller. If that is correct then, to determine where the problem is, cut or disconnect one of the controller leads coming from the panel. Measure the panel voltage (in sunlight). The voltage should be about 20VDV. If you measure approx 20VDC then there is a problem with the controller. If you measure 0VDC there is a problem with the solar panel or wiring between the controller and the panel. If you measure >0 and <15VDC there is probably a problem with the panel.
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Old 10-21-2018, 12:44 PM   #5
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Is it possible that without some sort of optimizer that your only getting what the least powered panel will produce? Try isolating each panel and see what you get. 10-12 years on a panel is not a very long time! Mine is going on 19 and still works great.
Good Luck, Jim
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