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Alpine06 · 04-30-2019, 10:06 PM

So this evening I turned the power on for the first time. ... no magic smoke ...

I looked at the MPPT controller and it showed charge mode “bulk” but the app showed 0A going in hmmm.
So my battery was full at 14.3V and my panel delivered 19.1V ok the charge controller needs a min of 5V to start the charging process I guess this was a wake up call why I want my panels to be serial connected. A 12v parallel array could deliver all sorts of amps but would never make the 5V hurdle in the evening sun.
Anyways I hooked up my balancing cables and was happy for today. More to learn tomorrow ...

HamboneTHW · 05-01-2019, 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpine06

HamboneTHW,
I am 100% with you on the AC and generator. If one would install such system I think you can buy a new diesel Onan for your rig and wear it out.
This is a new to me Motorhome and I have some knowledge around Lithium batteries and also the performance of my 6V golf cart batteries was not great. Even though relatively new, just 18 month old, the dealership let them go and I had to equalize them ... several times just so they accept a decent charge.
So I was motivated to do the installation and I got a really good deal on my batteries directly out of China.

But if you look at AMSolar you will find a 400Ah system with no solar panels for $5,400 installed. That is a good amount of money for a relatively small system.

Definitely! I love the small footprint. It will be interesting to price everything when the AGM’s on my coach finally go...

Itinerant1 · 05-01-2019, 08:32 AM

Alpine06 nice job on the battery hold down, gives them some cooling area for warmer temps and if that compartment isn't heated leaves room to wrap the batteries in colder temps if needed.

r3meyer · 05-01-2019, 08:34 AM

What cells and where did you get them? I am sourcing out mine now so would love the info. What was the cost per cell?

Alpine06 · 05-01-2019, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r3meyer

What cells and where did you get them? I am sourcing out mine now so would love the info. What was the cost per cell?

I got them directly from RJ Energy in China.
These are 202 Ah cells
$ 121 each that was with some negotiation
Shipping was expensive at $450

Likes : price and the Al outer shell
Dislikes: terminals only have a M6 thread that is too small in my opinion.

Durability ... no idea

r3meyer · 05-01-2019, 09:53 AM

I might have missed it, but what BMS did you choose?

Alpine06 · 05-01-2019, 10:03 AM

I used Victron components for temp, hi- and low voltage cut off.
I have an external cell balancer connected at the moment.
With the set voltage parameters I used and initial top balancing I think the cells should stay within 0.1V easily. If not I can start the balance process manually.
That’s what I have for the moment.

Most BMS see the full current that the battery is supplying hence the limit of some manufacturers to put drop in solutions into parallel configurations. I don’t like them as I have disassembled a couple and I think that the current leading path I always very small in cross section.
I like an individual cell balancing better.
My recommendation is 123 Smart BMS but I was not able to find directly in the US. And it is pricy.

paul65k · 05-03-2019, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpine06

Paul,
I think your plan sounds solid. Your amount of Solar might be a bit much for your battery but it would give you good performance on days with less sun. I am a bit challenged for roof top space ... the bat antenna really needs to go.
Also to move the batteries to the basement compartment is a good thought, if you use the coach you have heat there already.
The 712 can turn off the charging based on temperature but I think the charge controller that you are going for can too. A hybrid solution is very nice and if I would replace mine I would go with a 24v unit and built the battery Bank in 24V.
Victron makes good solid products and I like the Bluetooth option so you can mount components a bit more remote.
The cost adds up quickly for items like ring terminals that I always seem to have the wrong one on hand, you definitely want a hydraulic crimping tool and good thick marine grade shrink tubing. It will make your install look so much nicer if you can run the right wire length. At this moment I still need to change out some 4/0 and 2/0 wire that I do not like the way the ends are made ... but at this very moment I just like to get everything installed.
For the majority of people I think a drop in Lithium is the way to go. But as we all know pricy ...

Thanks!

I do have a hydraulic crimper and built all new cables for the battery compartment when I installed the AGM's about 6 months ago. Good solid cables and ends with high-quality shrink are a must.....I subsequently routed the 712 into the aforementioned bedroom dresser

I actually made a couple of cables for folks at the Quartzsite rally earlier this year!

Keep up the good work!

Alpine06 · 05-04-2019, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paul65k

Thanks!

I do have a hydraulic crimper and built all new cables for the battery compartment when I installed the AGM's about 6 months ago. Good solid cables and ends with high-quality shrink are a must.....I subsequently routed the 712 into the aforementioned bedroom dresser

I actually made a couple of cables for folks at the Quartzsite rally earlier this year!

Keep up the good work!

Paul,
That looks nice I see you mounted the shunt on the left side wall, the much smaller Lithium pack gave me the option to have space on the back wall.
Properly Crimped connections are very important especially on lithium cells, if there is a connection with a high resistance it will get hot and the Aluminium terminal of the battery absorbs the heat quickly and can melt the terminal right out of the plastic.
I used tinned high grade flexible marine wire and crimp lugs. The cost is only minimal different. I was very pleased with an eBay supplier - from top of my head i think it’s “Greg’s marine supplies”. You can order just the length and color you need and he has all sizes available.
I am going to change 2 wires out this weekend that were soldered and have just electrical tape on them. Also the thick adhesive lined marine grade heat shrink from Greg is awesome. Much better than the regular automotive grade.
Thanks for sharing the photo I can tell you took the time to do it right.
Joerg

paul65k · 05-04-2019, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpine06

Paul,
That looks nice I see you mounted the shunt on the left side wall, the much smaller Lithium pack gave me the option to have space on the back wall.
Properly Crimped connections are very important especially on lithium cells, if there is a connection with a high resistance it will get hot and the Aluminium terminal of the battery absorbs the heat quickly and can melt the terminal right out of the plastic.
I used tinned high grade flexible marine wire and crimp lugs. The cost is only minimal different. I was very pleased with an eBay supplier - from top of my head i think it’s “Greg’s marine supplies”. You can order just the length and color you need and he has all sizes available.
I am going to change 2 wires out this weekend that were soldered and have just electrical tape on them. Also the thick adhesive lined marine grade heat shrink from Greg is awesome. Much better than the regular automotive grade.
Thanks for sharing the photo I can tell you took the time to do it right.
Joerg

Just re-read my post and when I said "Solid" I meant well made

.....I used Welding Cable from Windy Nation, 2/0 in the battery compartment and 4/0 to the Chassis and Inverter along with their closed end rings

RicSteel · 05-09-2019, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r3meyer

I have done 2 coaches with Lipo. One I built the packs, the other was for a friend (less tech savy) so we went with Renogy.

Both coaches have Morningstar solar controllers set to 14.2 with no float or equalization. Cut off at 14.5. I don't remember what we have the LVD' set to. One had Xantrax that we were able to change the charge settings for. The other had a separate converter and and inverter.

The built pack is 4 years old. Works extremely well. Why anyone would go with any other setup is beyond me. I just picked up a new to me coach and will be doing the same setup. 400amp hour pack with all the goodies.

Please post pics of this.

vito.a · 05-09-2019, 05:49 PM

I'm both enjoying, and learning from this thread. Very nice work. Thanks

BobK53 · 05-09-2019, 07:14 PM

I used Rustoleum several years ago and it was a complete waste of time. The rust reformed under the Rustoleum. Something that I learned about on an old truck forum (Oletrucks - 1947 through 1954 Chevy pickups) is using a paint called POR15. It covers over rust, just sand off all of the rough rust. The POR15 is very impact resistant and keeps a good surface. It is black and keeps the color if not in the sun. In sunny areas the color of the POR15 will fade. If that is a problem it should be covered with primer and then whatever colored paint you desire.
If you have luck with Rustoleum how did you do it?

Alpine06 · 05-09-2019, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobK53

I used Rustoleum several years ago and it was a complete waste of time. The rust reformed under the Rustoleum. Something that I learned about on an old truck forum (Oletrucks - 1947 through 1954 Chevy pickups) is using a paint called POR15. It covers over rust, just sand off all of the rough rust. The POR15 is very impact resistant and keeps a good surface. It is black and keeps the color if not in the sun. In sunny areas the color of the POR15 will fade. If that is a problem it should be covered with primer and then whatever colored paint you desire.

If you have luck with Rustoleum how did you do it?

I am lately a bit disappointed with Rustoleum products. I hope that the primer layer and subsequent bed liner paint will keep the surface sealed enough so that the rust cannot form again.
Overall when it comes to caulking and paint I look now at marine products. They cost more yes but my time doing the job is worth something too so I really come to like the products TotalBoat makes. The primer is awesome also over metal.
In general if one would want to remove the rust completely you will need to pickle the metal surface and then use Di water for rinsing ... with the thickness of the bottom plate and the little rust I had I did not really want to do that.
I just checked into the POR 15 and I am familiar with that product. I will get some to use under the RV and around the hitch that always likes to rust.
Thanks for pointing me to that product I had completely forgotten about it.