Warning: Older Alpine Coach Brake Pad Corrosion

[Alpine Dave]

In a previous thread I described a total failure of my 1999 Alpine coach brakes ( 1999 Alpine Coach Brake Failure ). Now that I have completed the process of replacing all 4 brake calipers, rotors and pad sets, it is very clear how this failure happened. The pads did not simply wear out. The inboard pads on all 4 wheels were so badly corroded that they literally disintergrated. The Outboard pads on the front wheels were in relatively good shape and less than half worn. The outboard pads on the rear were more worn, but not badly corroded. Here are some photos:


This is the Left-Rear Caliper where the inboard pad was totally gone and the pistons were in direct contact with the rotor.


This is the remains of the Right-Rear Pad


This is the remains of the Left-Front Pad


This is the remains of the Right-Front Pad

The easiest pads to inspect are the front outboard pads through the holes in the front wheels. Shame on me. I was decieved into thinking that the remaining brake pads were in similarly good shape.

I purchased this coach in 2006 from a private party in Minnesota. I have stored it in a garage located in dry Colorado. So most of the corrosion probably occured the 6 -7 years it was in Minnesota. I suspect it was driven in the winter on salt covered roads.

If you have an older Alpine Coach that has spent a lot of time in humid climates and have not had the brakes fully inspected, you should do so to avoid my experience.

Replacing the brake pads (and/or calipers) is a relatively simple job that is not much different than doing the job on a car or light truck. The big difference is that everything is bigger, heavier, and more difficult to manipulate. Replacing the rotors is a different story. Removing the rotors requires removing the hubs. This requires special tools and equippment. I spent a lot of time researching part numbers and finding sources for all the parts. I also built many of the special tools I needed to do the job. I plan to write this all up and post it in another thread.

Dave Morgan

[Wayne R]

Dave, Good info, I look forward to reading your follow on post.

[Algoma]

I recently removed the wheels on my coach to do the annual slide lube on the calipers but decided instead to replace them as they were getting rusty. I was also concerned that the phenolic pistons may suffer the same problem that has recently occurred on the workhorse chassis. The pads were still in good shape with lots of meat left on them but I also changed those for high performance pads which have more stopping power. I used a ceramic based grease to lube the slides as this is supposed to last the life of the pads and I no longer have to do the annual lube job. I will check though. I had none of the excessive corrosion that Dave had.
Last year I had the master cylinder replaced and asked the garage to check all the brakes at the same time. They said they were all fine, which meant the pads had life left in them, they did not tell me the slides were dry and that one caliper was stuck. Nothing beats doing these checks yourself.
Like Dave I have the Bendix 55250 rail slide calipers, not the Bosch pin slide calipers.

[Gary Arnold]

Your pads look like they were exposed to salt.

I just removed my calipers and pads to replace the front left seal. There was no sign of corrosion and the pads and calipers looked new.

9 years and 75K miles.

[ddunk80]

vented brake discs may develop severe rust corrosion inside the ventilation slots, compromising the strength of the structure and needing replacement.




__________________________________________________ __________

PLYMOUTH PARTS BECK ARNLEY STANDARD BRAKE ROTOR,
SOLID, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY -- This is a
high quality OE replacement brake rotor.

[JohnRR]

I'm really curious about the special tools needed.

[Alpine Dave]

See How to replace hubs, calipers, rotors, bearings, & seals
for details of tools and procedures