Community Forums

tjshively · 03-12-2013, 03:35 PM

2005 Alpine Coach 36’ FDDS
I cannot get water to the hot water faucets.

I placed the bypass valve on the cold water line to horizontal (which has always been the summer position) and no water comes out the hot water side of the faucets. If I open the safety blow off the water flows out it OK – so the tank is full.
Has anyone had a bypass valve go bad or break so whatever? That’s the only thing I can figure.
If I put the bypass valve in the winter (bypass) position (handle pointing up) water flows to both sides of the faucets but with the bypass valve handle horizontal (summer position) water only comes out the cold water side.
I winterized this coach at least 12 times in the past 7 years and have never had a problem like this. It seems to simple – but all I can figure it to be is a bad bypass valve. My coach has no bypass valve on the hot water line out of the water heater as the owners manual says. It only has one bypass valve on the cold water inlet line and it has always worked OK.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

**CLIFFTALL** · 03-12-2013, 03:38 PM

Is there an outside shower handle open ? That's a common solution to no hot water flowing.

Cliff

tjshively · 03-12-2013, 04:33 PM

2005 Alpine Coach 36’ FDDS

This is the craziest thing I have ever experienced. OK – I drained the hot water heater and just let it fill up by itself. I could hear the air coming out the faucet, which it should do, as the water heater fills and forces the air out. Then, all of a sudden, it stops and no more air or no water – just nothing. Like something inside the heater just closed off the hot water line. I mean, BAM,

it just stopped. I left the drain plug (anode rod) out for about a month. I wonder if I have a mouse

floating in the hot water tank and BAM

– plugging the line. Oh – what a thought – what else could it be? I drained the heater and back flushed it through the vent pressure valve ( I put a fitting in the valve and hooked a hose up to it) and back flushed the heater. I let it fill again and all the same things happened - BAM

it still just stops. It is not the bypass valve because the heater is filling OK and air is coming out – then – BAM

it just stops.
HELP!!!!!

I know - to BAM many BAM'S

redfire312 · 03-12-2013, 04:37 PM

probably failed check valve

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/no-wa...er-153820.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/no-ho...ok-151654.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/no-h...er-152213.html

Old Scout · 03-12-2013, 04:41 PM

Part of the water-heater by-pass "system" includes a really cheap check-valve that threads into the exit pipe coming out the top [inside cabinet] of the water-heater. Sometimes the spring inside the check-valve comes a part and cuts off the flow of hot water exiting the tank. If you dont really need to by-pass the hot water heater, just eliminate the check-valve and reconnect the pex feed line directly to the water heater. If you need to preserve the ability to by-pass, you will need to find a new check-valve. May get lucky at a "box store" but you will probably need to go to an RV shop for the valve--its an "RV thing".....

bcbowers · 03-13-2013, 08:53 AM

Ditto - exact same problem I had ... I also left the check valve out ... hot water has worked fine ever since ... I winterize with air so no need for the check valve.

Algoma · 03-13-2013, 02:23 PM

My coach has 2 bypass valves, one on the cold fill and one on the hot outlet, as described in the manual. I do not have a check valve in the hot outlet. Was this a change WRV made by replacing the second bypass valve with this check valve in later coaches?

tjshively · 03-19-2013, 04:00 PM

I got it all fixed. I took out the check valve and removed the guts. Then I replaced the tee in the hot water line with another tee bypass valve - just like in the old days. In my opinion the check valve was a stupid idea. Only my opinion - you understand.
Thanks to everyone who helped me out.

JDVandenBerg · 03-28-2013, 05:52 PM

I have the same problem, it started yesterday. Suddenly lost the hot water, cold works fine. Where is this check valve and where can I get a replacement? Camping world?

Muddypaws · 03-28-2013, 06:04 PM

They're there for a purpose. If all the water drained out of your WH and you plugged it in.........Poof! Heating element gone. (done it. Always carry a spare.)

Get brass check valves if you can. The plastic ones are crap.

Algoma · 03-28-2013, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muddypaws

They're there for a purpose. If all the water drained out of your WH and you plugged it in.........Poof! Heating element gone. (done it. Always carry a spare.)

Get brass check valves if you can. The plastic ones are crap.

How can you "accidentally" drain all the water out of the hot water tank? The only time mine is empty is when I drain it "on purpose" to winterize.

JC2 · 03-28-2013, 07:19 PM

Must be an Alpine thing. We don't have that problem with our Newmar. Just kidding.

Muddypaws · 03-28-2013, 08:04 PM

Accidents happen. Over the 40 something years we've been RVing we've managed to toast several heating elements.

And replaced at least 3 check valves.

Neither of them on our current rig. Yet.

Old Scout · 03-28-2013, 08:09 PM

Didnt know Newmar products had water heaters--next thing you are going to tell me you have a toilet [inside] too--dang fancy rig there [smile]. Anyway, JD, the valve in question is located at the top of the hot water heater [inline at the outlet, right where the pipe [pex] exits the heater [this is on the back of water heater, inside the kitchen cabinet]. CW may have it but more likely a large RV sales/repair company.

Not sure but there could also be a check valve at the inlet [bottom of heater tank] but have not heard of this one [if it exists] failing. Good luck--working on the back of the water heat is tough--limited space/reach.
PS--I have "poofed" one element but it was self-inflicted after intentionally draining the heater--kind of hard to do by ""accident--I would think.