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Old 08-24-2009, 10:34 PM   #15
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Luck would have it that I found this thread. My SW10DE isn't igniting. I can see and hear the igniter trying, but no ignition. It used to be intermittent, but now seems to be a persistent problem.

Any thoughts? I have a multimeter with me if someone can give me some troubleshooting tips. Thanks!

GT
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Old 08-25-2009, 01:40 AM   #16
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Hello GT:

If the water heater is attempting to ignite but doesn’t it may be from the lack of fuel (Propane). If you have propane in the tank check the valve, a spider may have plugged up the orifice. The next thing I would check is that the valve is working properly and that the pressure from the Propane tank is properly set. The propane regulator must be adjusted every once in a while for proper operation and should be taken to a qualified RV repair facility that is certified in propane appliance repair/service.
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Old 08-25-2009, 09:05 AM   #17
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GTHill,

This is a link to the Suburban SW10DE service manual:
http://www.nwrvsupply.com/manuals/su...er_service.pdf
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Old 08-25-2009, 12:23 PM   #18
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A year ago my water heater would try to ignite, but fail. I thought I had a gas flow problem too. I followed the service manual and checked the high temp safety relay (which I believe is also the 120 volt thermostat) with a volt meter. As soon as I touched the terminal, the water heater kicked on and ignited. It has never failed since. The relay is pretty cheap and easily replaced if it is the problem. I now carry spares for both relays. (12 volt and 120 volt.)

There is also a reset button on the high temp safety. Try pressing it. That worked one previous time. My wife had noted that the water seemed hotter than normal earlier in the day. That tripped the over temp., and it needed to be reset.
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Old 08-25-2009, 04:20 PM   #19
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You can check the propane valve by removing it, then apply 12v to the solenoid valve element & blow thru it. If no blow, then valve is bad. Been there. Be sure to apply proper sealant when replacing. Any decent RV supply joint should have the valve off the shelf.
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:11 PM   #20
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GTHill, Sometimes the gap between the Spark Electrode Ignition contacts get seperated to wide. Therefore the spark produced is to weak to light the burner. Check the gap and set it to the approximate thickness of a dime. This will generate a fatter spark to ignite the propane.

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Old 08-25-2009, 07:39 PM   #21
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Solution! (I think)

So, here is what I came up with. I started looking at the igniter per Sammie and it looked good. While I was there, I looked some more.

There are two tubes in line, coming from the valve. One of them is the a regular tube (not copper, maybe aluminum?) and the other is a pipe. The pipe is what carries the propane to the igniter. I'm not sure what prompted me to do it, but I removed it. One nut and it was out. Guess what? Mud dobber had found his way in there. About 1/4 to 1/3rd of it was blocked, right in the elbow of the pipe so it was really hard to see. I cleaned it out and voila! Fire!

It fired right up so I'm hopeful that this is a final solution. Thanks for all of the help and hopefully one day, this can help someone else.

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Old 08-25-2009, 08:11 PM   #22
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This is why I LOVE our Hydro-Hot unit! Almost 5 years of trouble free service.
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:17 PM   #23
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Maybe the noise you heard when trying to light the water heater was just them pesky Mud Dobbers. (joke)

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