Water Tank Fill Solenoid Valves - APEX

[Old Rv'er]

All - Today I replaced the solenoid valves which control the "autofill" and city water of my APEX coach.

First it was a bear getting my large hands in to the area where the valves were located, next true to form, WRV used 10-12 crimp on connectors and one of the wires pulled out, so I had to replace the connector with the correct sized one, not a big deal, but just another irritant with the QA from WRV.

To my chagrin I did not check the new valves before I put them in, so I don't know if they really open up correctly, so I will have to check once we fill the tank the next time. Then I will also have to check for leaks because I did this while it was in storage. You cannot tell if they work by looking for solenoid travel since it cannot be seen.

The job was not mind boggling, but as mentioned it was real tight and I could barely get both my hands in there to tighten up the pipes back onto the new valves.

One thing the old valves still worked, but very little flow was allowed through them. I don't know if this is the proper amount or if the little bit of debris on the screens on the incoming side partially blocked the incoming side of the valve. Since our coach has the R/O with the filters, I will at least engage the filters from now on, when we are taking an extended trip, so debris do not clog the screen of the new valves.

I will update this once we bring the coach home for our next trip. The replacement valves were purchased from Aubrey's in Yakima, but the valves are made by G & C Valve Company. I am going to call them on Monday, and see if they still have them, or if there is a newer number which is a direct replacement. I will update this post once I have that information.

[DEC0717]

Aubrey's no longer has these solenoid valves. However, they gave me the make of the valves, GC Valves, and I checked their on line catalog to see if they had them. Could not find the part numbers in their catalog (S101RA15NP178-1/2 Normally Closed; S102RA15NP178-1/2 Normally Open). I sent an email to them and received a reply that although they don't show those valves in their catalog they still stock them. I was able ot easily order a couple pair of them.

FYI

[EngineerMike]

The small screens can easily become clogged; any sort of debris & a little bio-film, a common growth in water systems and flow will be challenged or worse. It is a contorionalization* stunt getting in there & working, as alluded to by Monty above, but can be done. I cleaned Sully's for him in Texas when water input had stopped and voila! water flowed. Cleaning these screens is a good idea if somebody is in the utility bay doing some work and getting a back ache anyway. The fittings are knurled plastic IIRC with an o-ring inside, and might take a quick twist w/a small pliers to get them started. IIWMI'd re-install w/a thin film of NSF approved silicone lubricant on threads & o-ring like Super Lube synthetic grease, available near you.

*I made this word up to fit the occasion, cuz I'm not sure you can say beeyatch on the internet.

[Old Rv'er]

All - to prevent the screens from fouling with debris, I hook up a sediment filter at the pedestal water hookup, and then attach my incoming water hose to that. I did replace the valves, but have not had any issues since I started doing that. I realize the reverse osmosis system has filters on it, but those filters are "after" the incoming solenoid valves under discussion. My arrangement is before those valves, so I am protecting them, additionally, that filter takes out the chlorine taste from the water to some degree, so I'm doing double duty.

The link here will suffice, although I think I purchased the thing at wal-mart, as they also have the filter cartridges. I change the cartridge about every three months. You can purchase them in packs of two. If the coach is going to sit unused for over two weeks, I take the filter and put it in a plastic bag, and keep it in the refrigerator so mold won’t grow. You can store it this way for 4-6 months I think.
http://www.bing.com/shopping/culligan-rvf-10-recreational-vehicle-external-water-filter/specs/C65684C64F976356E9EC?q=culligan+water+filters&lpf= 0&lpq=culligan%2bwater%2bfilters&FORM=CMSMSP
If you need to have it stand up, take a 2 or 5 gallon bucket and cut out "U" shaped depressions at the top opposite from each other, the filter will now stay upright and not fall over.

[Basil Shannon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Rv'er All - to prevent the screens from fouling with debris, I hook up a sediment filter at the pedestal water hookup, and then attach my incoming water hose to that. I did replace the valves, but have not had any issues since I started doing that. I realize the reverse osmosis system has filters on it, but those filters are "after" the incoming solenoid valves under discussion. ...................

On my 2006 Apex, park water comes in the hose reel thru a check valve and directly to the sediment and carbon filters. There is a 3 way valve ahead of the filters so you can bypass them. If you do, then you could get sediment into the system. I don't know if WRV changed this in 2007.

[Old Rv'er]

Hmmm, I will have to check this, because when I changed them, it seems the incoming water went right through the valves then through the sediment filters. I cannot deal with it now, I have an abscessed tooth, and that is going to take a while to resolve.