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Old 10-07-2007, 06:10 PM   #15
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Ted,

I THINK it was the Radio Flyer that had the 2000lb rating.
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Old 10-07-2007, 09:18 PM   #16
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We have a Subaru Forester 5 speed that has followed us around for 30k miles plus, hooked up with a Towmaster. In neutral, key to accessary. No problem ( except when I forgot to turn the key once). 27mpg.
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Old 11-12-2008, 11:38 AM   #17
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mike & Mike:
Bob & Peg,

You didn't mention "toad brakes" which is quite another subject with lots of right answers. We choose the US Gear Unified Tow Brake mainly since, when it's installed, all you have to do is hookup a 2-wire umbilical from the motorhome to the toad. There's no "installation of a lunchbox sized unit (think Brake Buddy) and having to clamp it onto the brake pedal and having to plug it into the cigarette lighter and checking for communication with the remote in the motorhome." There's also no need to store it when you reach your destination and before you can use the toad. With the US Gear, you go from "toad" to "driving" simply by disconnecting the single electric connector. Depending on how many wires go thru your light cord between the motorhome and toad, you might even be able to run the US Gear wires thru your main light cord.

Caveat: We had the US Gear system installed and working fine on our Safari Trek. In July/August this year we sold the Trek and bought the Alpine and haven't towed yet and haven't installed the US Gear system either. But others on this forum have mentioned using the US Gear system so I'm confident it'll work just fine in the Alpine.
Best of luck! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Mike,
I want to get the US Gear Tow Brake for my 2008 CRV. I need to know which model to order, however. Does anyone know if the 2005 Alpine FDTS is "pre-wired for supplemental braking"?
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Old 11-12-2008, 01:39 PM   #18
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Hi Dave and Jaime,

Oh my, you dug up an old post. Since then, I've installed the US Gear unit on the Alpine and everything works perfectly. By the way, our Alpine has hydraulic brakes, not the air brakes (those Alpines seem to be rare as I have never talked to anyone that had one).

In the old post, I mentioned that you could maybe run your US Gear wires thru the main light cord from rig to toad but I never did get around to looking into that. So, I've got the US Gear 2-wire cord and then the 6-wire light cord running between the rig and the toad.

On the baseplate for the Honda, Blue Ox had one baseplate that was pretty invisible (that's the one we bought since it was Michele's brand new car and she told me it had darn well look good when she got home that night!) The other baseplate would, I think, have been rather unsightly. The baseplate installation looked rather daunting and I had an RV shop do that.

The US Gear Model UTB-1000 is the model for coaches that are not pre-wired by the factory (Safari and some others "embraced" the US Gear system and started installing the "coach pre-wiring" sometime around 2005. That was the model I bought for the Trek and transferred to the Alpine.

The Model TV-1000K is the same thing but minus the 50 foot wiring harness and the connectors to the controller and to the toad umbilical. So, you could save $200 and find your own connectors or just remove all connectors and connect the wires directly at each end. It's hard to get excited about paying $200 for 50 feet of wire.

I've sent you some further information (the schematic for installing "toad brakes" when you've got the Vansco system) via PM.

Good Luck! I'm sure you'll like the US Gear brake.
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:53 PM   #19
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by two sailors:
We have a Subaru Forester 5 speed that has followed us around for 30k miles plus, hooked up with a Towmaster. In neutral, key to accessary. No problem ( except when I forgot to turn the key once). 27mpg. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

We've got a 2004 Forester - have about 30K miles pulled plus another 30K driven. Just replaced the tires. We're using a Falcon 2 tow bar and have a Brake Pro - both 4 years old and going strong. And it is amazing how many 'off' road places we can get to in the desert when we are geocaching - really a great car!

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Old 11-12-2008, 08:09 PM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Bob, I would definitely check the capacity of your hitch on the motorhome. If I remember correctly some of the older units were rated at 2000#. I am not certain of that, but I would definitely check </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ha, See TED has only 4 campfires like me. We are not experts like EM. But TED has a faster car

Having a 2000 with a 1999 build date the hitch is rated for 5K. 2001 they went to 10K. I do not think (Patty tells me I do that alot ) there is a difference in the building of the chassis from year to year. But 2001 has a GCVW of 38K vs 33K for 2000 and older.
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:30 AM   #21
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Tom & Patty, it is not the number of candles you have, it is the value of the substance that is written in them! In the case of EM all of his have great value, I think. I am only up to Nov. 2006 breaking down the abbreviations and so far they are a tremendous source of information.
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:09 PM   #22
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Looks like some varying information on towing weight. The sales literature I have for the 2000 coach shows all with a 10,000 capacity. Our unit was built 12/99. Our coach is a 38 foot with a 350 engine. There is no weight shown for a 38 foot on our owners manual only the 36 ft (33,000) and 40 ft (36,000)
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Old 11-16-2008, 04:37 PM   #23
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Jeeps are the simplest to setup for toad operation. Just pull on the manual lever to put the transfer case into neutral. No tweaking the electronics to get the transfer case to select neutral, nor any limitations on how far or how fast you can tow. Simple and straight forward.

As for tow bars, we used a Roadmaster Sterling. I definitely would NOT get any tow bar that didn't have a release that allowed the tow bar to be disconnected when under load.
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Old 11-16-2008, 06:21 PM   #24
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Jeeps are easy, but with Remco disconnects you can tow a lot of other vehicles that you might prefer to drive and cost you less to own in fuel, maintenance and depreciation when you get there. I've owned a Jeep and it's now the reason I tow a 4Runner. More comfortable, less maintenance, better fuel mileage, and just better fits my needs.

I think one should figure out how they're going to use the toad, how much driving they're going to do, and what kind of driving, and then decide what toad to buy. I wouldn't think twice about using a driveline disconnect or lube pump or axle disconnect again if it's the vehicle I want to drive rather than put up with something that is umcomfortable or doesn't fit my needs.

If a Jeep fits your needs and wants most of the time when you get there, fine -- buy it. But I would caution to think a lot about what you're going to do with the toad when you get there, and when you're not towing it most of the time before you buy it. And look at the alternatives before yo buy the "tow it with no modifications" before you buy it.

We've got 44,000 miles on our '06 4 Runner and have towed it another 45,000 miles over the last 3 years and it's worked great with the Remco driveline disconnect. We've got 31,000 miles on our VW Beetle and have towed it 20,000 miles on top of that in the last 3 1/2 years. Have never had a towing problem on either one.
And for us, they fit our needs; may not fit others.
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Old 11-17-2008, 03:39 AM   #25
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Thank you all for the information.

We bought a Ford Edge, which requires nothing other than putting it in neutral and turning the ignition all the way back before towing.
It is equipped with an Even Brake, Blue Ox baseplate, Blue Ox Aventa tow bar, auxilliary lighting and a Toad-Charge unit (the Alpine supplies power to the Toad-Charge and the Even Brake is powered directly from the Edge battery). All circuits are dedicated.

After towing 12K miles and driving it another 15K, we are very happy with it.

Mileage is pretty good, it's comfortable, handles well, quite snappy and is able to haul the wood I use in my shop.

We did not buy the Jeep Liberty simply because, according to the manual, it's fairly involved to prepare for towing.

As many have stated, the "Brake in a box" is a bit of a PItA but it does'nt require any modification of the TOAD and can be moved at will.

As expected, our fuel consumption has been effected to a small degree but, when averaged over 18K miles, we're still getting a bit over 9 MPG when towing (the Rockies and severe winds in TX, NM, CO and UT this summer had a significant impact).

All-in-all, this has proven to be a good decision for us.

Thanks again.
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Old 11-26-2008, 02:53 PM   #26
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Bob, I'm interested in the Ford Edge too. What kind of gas mileage are you getting, and what is the GVW ot it?
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:31 AM   #27
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Hi Chuck.

The advertised MPG is 17 City, 24 Highway. Our average is right at 23.5 with normal driving. Admittedly, we live in a fairly rural area and our average local trip is, I suspect, in the 15 to 20 mile range.

I believe the advertised weight is 4600 lbs. for our AWD and it tows wonderfully. We do have an Even-Brake system and a dedicated lighting set-up.

Handling is crisp and it sure has snappy perormance when you need (or want) it.

Areas of possible concern are:
1. the 1st to 2nd shift seems a bit sloppy at times.
2. The engine-trans combo will not hold position on a hill and the brakes must be used. I mention this only because I've seen some complaints about it on the Ford Edge forum. However, we always use our brakes and have had absolutely no issues.

We bought a Certified used vehicle having 12K miles, which has a 100K powertrain warranty and the remainder of the 36K mile bumper to bumper. So far, it has needed nothing repaired.

All-in-all, we are very happy with the vehicle.

Good luck in your search.
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