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Old 06-20-2005, 07:32 PM   #1
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Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Great Salt Lake
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I was wondering if any other Alpine Coach owners have experienced wind noise coming from around the front door. The wind noise gets worse above 60 mph and especially if there is a cross wind. Please no smart apples saying to drive under 60 mph, turn up the satellite radio or buy a mid-door model. This is what I have tried to date, while some have helped reduce the noise, there is still room for improvement.
" Removed screen door checked for straight and straighten where necessary.
" Installed new rubber molding around screen door, from PTL Engineering (OEM)
" Adjusted striker plate for maximum door closure.

If anyone has made corrections for this problem in their Alpine, I would appreciate hearing about your solution.

Dan & Denise
2001 Alpine
Great Salt Lake Route
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Old 06-20-2005, 07:32 PM   #2
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Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Great Salt Lake
Posts: 118
I was wondering if any other Alpine Coach owners have experienced wind noise coming from around the front door. The wind noise gets worse above 60 mph and especially if there is a cross wind. Please no smart apples saying to drive under 60 mph, turn up the satellite radio or buy a mid-door model. This is what I have tried to date, while some have helped reduce the noise, there is still room for improvement.
" Removed screen door checked for straight and straighten where necessary.
" Installed new rubber molding around screen door, from PTL Engineering (OEM)
" Adjusted striker plate for maximum door closure.

If anyone has made corrections for this problem in their Alpine, I would appreciate hearing about your solution.

Dan & Denise
2001 Alpine
Great Salt Lake Route
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2004 Alpine 40 FDTS
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Old 06-25-2005, 07:12 PM   #3
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You have done everything we did to resolve wind noise in our 02 Front door but ours was resolved by adjusting the stricker plate and staitening the screen door.

Are you sure it is the door with the noise? In our 03 and 04 mid-doors we had a wind noise that is actually from the post between the front windshield and side. In one case it just took some more foam sealer sprayed up into the post. You go in from the front slide. The other time it was just replacing the gasket around the front slide that did not have a good seal.

Good luck.
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Old 06-26-2005, 04:25 AM   #4
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D&D Just read your bit re: wind noise in front door. I had the same problem and tried all sorts of things with just slightly better results than as original. I finally solved it by removing wooden sight shield just inside door jam which will expose striker mounting arrangement. On my 2000 this wooden piece had two or three wooden plugs that had to be removed to access screws behind. I did all this 4 yrs ago so forgive the accuracy of my memory. I cut some small thin shims 2or3 and placed the behind the screws attaching the assembly to the jam thereby moving the entire thing further toward the inside of the M/H. This is trial and error stuff but what a difference. I beleive shims were 1/16 alum. PM me if you have other questions. Fredbob
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Old 06-26-2005, 10:26 AM   #5
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Thanks to dkgreene and Fredbob for their responces. All are good ideas to take another look at. I'll PM Fredbob about his solutions. Sometimes it only takes one idea to fix a problem.
D&D Rich
2001
Great Salt Lake Route
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Old 06-26-2005, 02:35 PM   #6
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At the last ACA homecoming rally in Toppenish we had ours repaired by one of the WRV techs. We have a 99 front door model (40 ft). The fix consists of 3 aux seals: (1) a seal along the hinge (they used one half of a velcro strip about the width of the gap. (2) a seal around the door top and forward side attached to the inside of the door (the width of the metal part of the door frame). This aux seal pushes on the rubber seal attached to the screen door. (3) a seal (about 0.5 inch wide) on the door frame on the front side from bottom to top. For the slanted portion a seal (the same seal that is used for basement doors) extends up to the top of the frame and aft to the hold open attachment. This seal pushes on the other side of the existing seal. This has cured our problem. My conclusion is that only the portion of the door that corresponds to the windshield needs to be protected. One time we had the problem in a light rain with a pretty good cross wind (from left to right at an angle to the coach) and every time the wiper went over to the outside post the noise stopped. Obviously this is an aerodynamic problem. I realize this explanation is a bit complex. If more info is needed maybe a picture would help. Actually I have some of the seal stuff for samples.
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:32 PM   #7
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put another layer of the weather stripping on top of the one in door jam or get a new weather strpping tha is twice the thickness of the one the factory installed. that cured mine 40 ft with front door 2001 any other ? call 702 592 2505 Harold
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:30 PM   #8
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I cured my wind noise by adding 3/8" weather stripping along the top of the doors (screen and chassis doors). I ran it along the mating surface to the existing molding so it pressed up against the molding that is already there.
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Old 06-28-2005, 06:20 PM   #9
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Alpine Owners,
Again thanks to gamaca015, Harold Mallet, and Steve S. who responded to my post. All you suggestions were helpful and I will be trying some of them.
D & D Rich
Great Salt Lake
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Old 08-11-2005, 09:25 PM   #10
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I also had this problem. I actually called the door manufacturer and got the pres on the line, this is what he told me.

1. Use shop vac in reverse, so it operates like a leaf blower and blow air around the closed door. With someone inside, they can hear where it is leaking.

2. Remove screen

3. Use WIDE vice grips with electrical tape on jaws to prevent scratching and bend the door frame lip out torwards the door in the area where you heard leaks.

I tried this method and it reduced the level of noise but did not completely fix the problem. I probably need one more try. If you try this, be careful with the frame lip. Do not use regular vice grips, you need the ones with the wider clamping area (3-4 inches)
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