Community Forums

DrDaveMA · 01-01-2018, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Scout

....

4- if propane furnace, replace dryer vent hoses in basement with residential 4" insulated duct. check for/eliminate all sharp turns in duct work.

6-just give up and head for Quartzsite--Florida ain't that warm.....

Dean,

4) - the 4” duct actually applies to the HydroHot also.

6) - Q is a little far, so we opted for southern Florida this year, I forgot to put a deposit on the warm weather in the NE for the last 2 weeks of December🤬

DrDaveMA · 01-01-2018, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVPioneer

There are portable radiant floor heating pads available that may be useful in helping solve some freezing issues. A website called cozywinters.com has pads ranging from 2'x3' up to about 5'x7'. The smallest uses 65w and could possibly be attached to the inside of the wet bay door. A 3'x5' uses 170w and could be set on top of the black or grey holding tank. I have not used them but it seems to be an effective way to get heat precisely where needed. Cost would be considerably higher than a basic space heater. The boat safe models are somewhat pricy, so perhaps comparable in that regard. A few could be strategically placed with total wattage being 300-400. Less than a 600-900w heater. It would require being plugged in to at least a 15A circuit.

I have a round plug fashioned for my cable port with a hole in the center to accommodate the power cable. It hinges open, closes down on the cable and rests in the opening. A small amount of weight could be placed on top for additional intrusion deterrence. I've also peppered likely points of entry with Irish Spring.

That’s pretty much the route I am thinking, a piece of 1” rigid insulation adhered to the bay doors and around the floor. I will also work on some way of plugging those holes through the floors for the cables, just enough to prevent air infiltration. Plus plugging any hole I can find.

Old Scout · 01-02-2018, 07:18 AM

DRDave--I was reluctant to comment on H/H as I don't own one. However, thinking back to my Wisconsin days, forced-air, residential heating systems used hot air registers around the exterior of rooms, and cold air returns near the center/interior walls. This arrangement removed cold air and more evenly circulated warm air. Looking at the locations of the H/H registers in Alpines over the years [eg under--beds, kitchen cabinets, couches, and front dash], they doesn't facilitate the removal of cold air from the main living spaces. I am thinking radiant floors might be the ticket.....or move south BEFORE winter hits .....

greenmachine · 01-02-2018, 08:16 AM

So Dr Dave, what your saying if it had been put in right there wouldn't have been a problem. I like the idea of putting a sheet up right behind the seats. I'm sure that's what's going to happen and adjust the dash heat to a/c max. I would rather not go down the road with the furnace on if I don't have to. We are going to head straight south to get warmer area then open up the water and flush. Right now its cold all across the south except Q. I wished I could get away and go but its not in the picture. When I purchased this Coach I took over a RvCare warranty. I can't touch nothing but I found a guy who will come to the house. The bearings our loud in the furnace motor and warranty will cover it. I have been burnt from every service center here except for Cummins. I hope this guy is ok. Everyone have safe travels and enjoy the new year. Old Scout I will send you a message when I get down your way.
Thanks again Everyone
Larry and Tammy
2003 38FD Alpine
Boston Ky

Old Scout · 01-02-2018, 08:31 AM

.....Larry sounds like a close miss---we leave for Q-site on the 12th....then back to Phoenix until end of Feb......First week of Mar is open then off to FMCA in GA.....perhaps some day.
PS--depending on location, removing the propane furnace on some Alpines is a PITA. Mine is on the ceiling of the basement, under bathroom sink cabinet--2x on PITA.......
PSS--not so much an issue for the cab/coach but using propane furnace while driving will help keep tanks/pipes from freezing. Only use it in coldest weather [like right now] but no safety concerns for using furnace while driving....

DrDaveMA · 01-02-2018, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Scout

DRDave--I was reluctant to comment on H/H as I don't own one. However, thinking back to my Wisconsin days, forced-air, residential heating systems used hot air registers around the exterior of rooms, and cold air returns near the center/interior walls. This arrangement removed cold air and more evenly circulated warm air. Looking at the locations of the H/H registers in Alpines over the years [eg under--beds, kitchen cabinets, couches, and front dash], they doesn't facilitate the removal of cold air from the main living spaces. I am thinking radiant floors might be the ticket.....or move south BEFORE winter hits .....

Dean, I agree. About 7 or 8 years ago I took the cold air return in the bedroom and doubled it in size. I think we are getting an adequate air flow, but you never know. I also need to get in and replace the duct work in the bath area, it is still the original uninsulated junk from WRV. For the last 5 years (except last year when we came west for the Rose Parade) the weather has been warm enough that we were fine, in fact 3 of the years, when we got to Lexington, VA to stop for the night, it was raining!

swprdog · 01-02-2018, 04:34 PM

OK...I do not have a hydro hot do I still have a basement heat thermostat and if so where is it located? I have looked for a "Smart Bed" but I am a dumbass and can't find it. I need step by step instructions. Thanks

Old Scout · 01-02-2018, 04:58 PM

Ok--you have an 05 Alpine.....so believe Hydro-hot was an option on your model year. To confirm, does your coach have a propane furnace in the basement? If so, references to Hydro-hot and Smart Beds don't apply to you. Nor does the reference to a basement thermostat. Like my 2003, you have to depend on the small ducts and the proximity of your furnace to your wet bay and other vital basement areas. Forgive me but what was your original question?
PS--propane furnaces were installed by WRV in different locations in the basement from model year to year; so depending on furnace location, your options for keeping the basement warm may be different from mine.

Mocha Latte · 01-02-2018, 06:03 PM

We are planning to head south as soon as the coach gets out of the shop. Like Dr. Dave, we didn't anticipate the extreme cold that we are having so early this season and in the 3 1/2 yrs that we've had this coach have never had to deal with temps this low. Our Alpine is an 04 which predates the Hydro Hot you have been discussing. The previous owner installed a heat exchanger under the bed that has a two speed fan (switch mounted on the wall) so that you can get heat from the engine to circulate in the bedroom area. This can run all the while you are going down the road and should help warm the interior in conjunction with the dash heater. In the past we have always relied on the propane furnace in real cold situations when stopped for the night. This will be the first time that we'll put this auxiliary heater to the test. As far as I'm concerned this is like getting free heat that usually is wasted. We'll let you know how it works out.

Old Scout · 01-02-2018, 06:32 PM

....as mentioned earlier, put the dash air on max A/C and turn the heat selector to hot. If you are going to be in cold weather for a few days--unplug the A/C compressor wire at the compressor. The heat exchanger under the bed sounds pretty neat but will only help while driving. A couple of space heaters with genset running can l also help. We have found that while parked or on the road, propane furnace will keep the wet bay fairly warm depending on where furnace is located in your model/year. While parked [and on shore power] a combination of propane furnace and space heaters will/should do OK for you. Keeping slides in while parked, drapes and blinds closed, and replacing dryer vent hose [heat duct] in basement with insulated residential duct work.

DrDaveMA · 01-02-2018, 07:01 PM

The other thing I sometimes use is a blanket/afgan draped over my legs while driving. Yes it is a hazard, you have to be really ready to stop.

AKOne · 01-15-2018, 04:51 PM

When you are considering using your coach in temps in the teens or colder, you have to get serious about protective measure. I started with replacing all the flexible and cheap furnace duct with ridged duct work rapped with insulation. Much better air flow. Also ran a branch to the wet bay. Then insulated all the water lines, hot and cold, and move water lines away from exterior walls. Used sheets of foil back ridged insulation behind the washer, under the holding tanks, between the shower enclosure and exterior wall and the kitchen area. Then cut a piece to cover the wet bay and held it in place with the door. This can be removed when servicing. Insulation will only get you part way there. There is no substitute for heat. WRV did not adequately heat the basement. In addition to the added duct, I include other heat sources. Heat tape around the dump valves and a small heater with a fan. One more heater placed in the area of my pressure tank and water pump. One added precaution, with empty or near empty holding tanks, dump copious amounts of salt into the tanks. The main concern here is the valves. Then install a remote thermometer in your wet bay, so you know what is going on down there. At night, if necessary, run the generator to keep the electric heaters going. I supplemented the furnace with electric heat inside. The few dollars in fuel is a small price to pay to avoid freeze damage. Keep the inside thermostat turned up on the furnace and open the cabinet doors under the sinks. You can survive very cold temps. It just takes more effort.

GerryB · 04-02-2018, 04:10 PM

Not an Alpine owner ,Just a dreamer. however my bride and i have been living in a winnabago since selling our house Feb.2017 in me. no frozen anything. I bought some insulation panels at H/D.cut and lined waste bay sealing with real duct (alum.) under sink, and lined slide interior. Stop the wind is pretty much the answer. Not full timers trying to get new home built.
Capt G
96 RQ 34