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Old 09-30-2010, 08:00 PM   #1
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Winterize / Water Pump

Does anyone who winterizes their coach by blowing out the water system ever remove the water pump (ShurFlo SmartSensor 5.7)? Or, have a pump failure when it comes time to summarize?

The original pump failed when the coach was being summarized early this year after being winterized by an RV dealer who pumped anti-freeze through the system. I'm winterizing the coach this year by blowing out the water system using an air compressor. I'm concerned about the pump drying out and then failing again when I summarize it. I clearly do NOT want to buy a new pump every year!!!

Any experience or suggestions would be appreciated.

FYI, I did dump RV anti-freeze down the drains.
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:44 AM   #2
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My solution for winterizing is to live in south Texas. Assuming this is not an option, I would think the next best option is to pump RV anti-freeze [for drinking water] thru all the lines rather than trying to evacuate them with air pressure. This option has a couple of side-bar issues: 1) you will need to install [if not already installed] a by-pass valve for your water heater and drain the heater separately, and 2) you probably will also want to install a three-way valve in the line between your pump and fresh water tank so you can pump anti-freeze without disconnecting yr line each time. You also need to dump your fresh water and holding tanks along with pouring anti-freeze down all the drains to ensure the traps are full. There may be other issues and options.
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:28 AM   #3
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We blow our lines out many times a year, living in Canada and camping year round. Some times in temps as low as 15f.
Never had a problem with the pump.
I open all fixtures then blow air at 45 psi. Close all then do all fixtures one by one.
I have a water dump valve for the shower that I open first.
Then the water heater.

I just us the pink stuff for the traps


The whole thing takes less than 15 min.
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:02 AM   #4
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Bert_64 ... I set my compressor for 50 psi and found it difficult for the compressor to stay up with the constant air release. However, I sequenced through the washing machine, toilet & flush hose, bathroom valve (hot & cold), shower (hot & cold), kitchen valve (hot & cold), refrigerator water dispenser, and service bay valves (hot & cold) several times until only air comes out and no moisture.

The biggest problem I had was with the refrigerator water dispenser. It uses a small tank that doesn't totally evacuate. All you can do is keep opening the dispenser valve repeatedly until mostly air comes out.

Do you disconnect the water lines to & from the water pump to drain the water?
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:38 AM   #5
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I simply do what Bert_64 says that he does, but I also remove the two water filters that are in the basement for my 2006 Alpine Coach Limited.
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Old 10-02-2010, 07:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcbowers View Post
Bert_64 ... I set my compressor for 50 psi and found it difficult for the compressor to stay up with the constant air release. However, I sequenced through the washing machine, toilet & flush hose, bathroom valve (hot & cold), shower (hot & cold), kitchen valve (hot & cold), refrigerator water dispenser, and service bay valves (hot & cold) several times until only air comes out and no moisture.

The biggest problem I had was with the refrigerator water dispenser. It uses a small tank that doesn't totally evacuate. All you can do is keep opening the dispenser valve repeatedly until mostly air comes out.

Do you disconnect the water lines to & from the water pump to drain the water?
I haven't removed the line from the water pump ever. There should be no water in it. They don't hold but a drop of water. The air should blow out every thing from there. Check the water dispenser and shower lines. I have a low level valve that I open. This allows for quicker blowout. Behind the shower I have a door that I can reach in and open the valve. This allows the high water to drain. Same for the refrigerator.
I do remove the filters also.
After I finish I have a long blow chuck for my compressor that I use to blow and flush out the water heater. Helps to remove the extra crap in the water heater too.

Btw, when I do this the compressor runs no stop. The reason for setting it to 45psi is so I don't start and blow 100psi in and damage the pump. Be the same as high water pressure.
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Old 10-02-2010, 03:08 PM   #7
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Here's a tip & a questions ...

Tip - My coach has the Amana residential refrigerator that contains a small water tank at the bottom rear area. I noticed that the tank was still approximately 2/3 full of water after blowing out the water dispenser. I took the tank loose (one screw towards the top), turned the tank upside down, and blew out the water dispenser. All of the water came out this time.

Bert_64 - Do you leave the water system presurized with air when you're done blowing it out? I noticed today when I started the above procedure that the system was still holding air pressure.
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Old 10-02-2010, 03:27 PM   #8
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I also use air pressure with out disconnecting any lines. The same pressure regulator I use to maximize water pressure at 60 lbs will also regulate your air pressure to 60 lbs. max. Therefore your compressor can be set at 120 lbs and you can blow everything out and the compressor has no trouble keeping up to demand.
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Old 10-02-2010, 09:26 PM   #9
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Additionally, too much air pressure may damage the cold & hot water solenoids for a clothes washer and/or a dishwasher.
BTF
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcbowers View Post
Here's a tip & a questions ...

Tip - My coach has the Amana residential refrigerator that contains a small water tank at the bottom rear area. I noticed that the tank was still approximately 2/3 full of water after blowing out the water dispenser. I took the tank loose (one screw towards the top), turned the tank upside down, and blew out the water dispenser. All of the water came out this time.

Bert_64 - Do you leave the water system presurized with air when you're done blowing it out? I noticed today when I started the above procedure that the system was still holding air pressure.
When I'm done I leave the taps open not sure why. Don't know if it makes any difference. Habit I guess.

Like the tip with using a pressure regulator going to do that. Nice safety factor.
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:02 AM   #11
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Winterization Help

I've successfully blown out my lines several times using an air adapter on the water "in" fitting. I just noticed, however, that the manual for my 2002 34' Alpine says that because of a "one-way" valve, this is not possible. Does anyone know about this? Do I need to tap into a water line somewhere else? Thx.
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:09 PM   #12
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DLukes ... The "City Water" inlet in the service compartment has a check valve to keep water from flowing back out. If it didn't, then your water pump would send water out on the street (or where ever) when in use. But, it should not stop you from blowing out your system. I didn't have any problems.

I started this thread primarily because of needing to know what to do with the water pump after blowing out the system. However, it's become usefull in discussing how to winterize your coach with an air compressor. I'm pretty sure I've successfully blown out my system and here's some things to consider if applicable:

1. Open cold & hot water separately for all faucets including the kitchen drinking water dispenser (don't forget the service compartment faucett as well).
2. Flush the toilet while opening the hand sprayer nozzle.
3. Open the water dispenser in the refrigerator while making sure any internal tanks are completely empty. (NOTE: See my previous post about the water tank. I still may choose to remove the tank by using unions on the 2 - water lines attached to the tank.)
4. Start the washing machine on hot & cold cycles.
5. Open any other water dispensing valves you might have that I've not mentioned like an outdoor shower, etc.

Once you've blown out the system, remove the refrigerator filter. There should be a filter for the drinking water dispenser but it should be empty if you blew out the dispenser.

You or someone else may think of more.
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Old 10-05-2010, 09:39 AM   #13
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You also want to put some antifreeze into the washer drum and then "spin" it to get it into the washer drain lines. Look at the bottom of this quickguide:

washer_Winterize_QuickGuide.pdwasherf.pdf
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Old 10-05-2010, 06:51 PM   #14
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Bob & John, Thx for the good info. Don
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