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Old 12-27-2005, 01:01 PM   #1
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I ordered a 20" CoPilot Flexible Map Lamp (12V) that I intend to install near the window to the right of the passenger seat. Does anyone know where I can get easy access to 12 volts in that area?

Also, if that works out, I would like to do the same thing on the driver's side. Does anyone know where I can get easy access to 12 volts in that area?

Dale Dowdy
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Old 12-27-2005, 01:01 PM   #2
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I ordered a 20" CoPilot Flexible Map Lamp (12V) that I intend to install near the window to the right of the passenger seat. Does anyone know where I can get easy access to 12 volts in that area?

Also, if that works out, I would like to do the same thing on the driver's side. Does anyone know where I can get easy access to 12 volts in that area?

Dale Dowdy
2001 Alpine Coach 38FDDS
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Old 12-27-2005, 04:15 PM   #3
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Dale, if you have a dimmer switch on your IP panel it may have a 12 volt switch, full on, to control your new map lamps. Wires can be run thru your "A" chanels left and right of your windshield. That is how my lamps are controled. "007"
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Old 12-27-2005, 04:24 PM   #4
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ON THE PASSENGER SIDE YOU SHOULD FIND 12V AT THE DIMMER SWITCH FOR THE UNDER CABINETS LIGHTS, AND ON THE DRIVERS SIDE YOU SHOULD FIND 12V AT THE AMPLIFIER FOR TV ANTENNA,ABOVE THE DRIVERS SEAT.
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Old 12-27-2005, 04:55 PM   #5
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Dale, when you get an answer to your question on the wiring please share it with me as I am going to do the same thing. I am curious where you got your lights that are 20" long. I found Hella 23-1/2" long ones but would prefer to use 20".
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Old 12-27-2005, 06:18 PM   #6
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I tried posting a reply from my email account and apparently it didn't work. Here it is again.

If you are going to mount the switch adjacent to the step, porch lite, and entry lite switch, why not pick up the hot side of one of those switches?

For the left side, you can pick up the power from the mirrors, exhaust brake or perhaps the driving lights (if you have them). Otherwise you can pick up power from the relay/fuse panel in front of the driver seat. It would be easy to run the wire from there.
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Old 12-27-2005, 06:51 PM   #7
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Ted III,

This is the link to the Web site that has the 12V/5W 20" flexible CoPilot reading lamp:
http://www.absak.com/catalog/product...roducts_id/791

At the moment, it is backordered.

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Old 12-30-2005, 04:23 PM   #8
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Dale,
I have installed map lights on both sides in my coach. Walt also has them and you can do a Find and search under ˜indio' and go to the last item, which is Improvement Ideas from Walt. Item 38-39. The Driver Side Map Light I installed the same as Walt, mounted to the console behind the 4-way mirror switch at the very back. I used machine screws and bolts. While there are several hot sources at this location, I wanted the map light on a separate fused circuit (my father was an electrician) so ran wires (hot & ground) to the right front in the panel by the steps. Installed a fuse block at this location for those extra electrical items, i.e. satellite radio, roof satellite, etc. The Co-Pilot map light is where Walt I differ as to mounting location. Walt mounted his to the wall behind the side window. Light would come over the right shoulder of the co-pilot. To hind the wires he found some plastic wire covers to run down to the cabinet below. I'm sure he picked up the power from the switches & wires located in the cabinet by the co-pilot. I wanted to mount my co-pilot map light between the front door jam and the window. Since I was doing another project at the same time I ran the wires inside the wall down to the inside of the cabinet mounted by the right side of the co-pilot seat. I do not recommend this for the casual do-it-yourselfer. Another mounting location would be in the front of the cabinet, close to the wall and run wires inside cabinet. You can pick up the hot side of the ceiling switch for power. There are also some other hot wires in this location. To facilitate wiring I would take off the solid surface top from the cabinet. With two or three putty knifes being real careful. WRV used glue all around and you sure can't fault them for not using enough! Lastly I recommend on the co-pilot map light you get the person who sits there the most and find the best location. A happy co-pilot makes the whole coach more enjoyable.

Send me a PM if you have any questions or if you would like to see my map lights, We'll be at the Desert Rat Rally in Quartzsite.

D&D Rich
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Old 12-31-2005, 11:02 AM   #9
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007, Fred, SteveS, D&D Rich,

Thanks for all the good ideas for mounting and wiring the CoPilot map light. As soon as I receive the light, I will try the installation.

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Old 01-29-2006, 03:26 PM   #10
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D & D Rich, SteveS, Fred, 007,

I received my flexible map light, so now I need to figure out how to connect it electrically.

By taking the cover off the 3 switch panel near the entry door, it is obvious that I can tap into a hot wire there. The porch light switch and entry light switch appear to use a common hot wire that comes from a 15A fuse in the bedroom electrical panel. Since the lamp is only 5 Watts (5Watts/12V = 0.42A), I would think that I can safely tap into this 15A hot wire. However, how do I tap into a neutral (ground) wire? Or should I run a new neutral (ground) wire? If so, how and to where? How do I fish this wire and to where?

Thanks,

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Old 01-30-2006, 11:59 AM   #11
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You can wire the light w/the either wire switched and using the hot and ground sources of the security (or other) switches present. Either tap the hot from your chosen circuit & run to the switch then to the new light, then to ground,
or, tap the hot & run to the new light, then put the switch on the ground wire.
If the light has its own switch, then existing hot to new red, new black to existing ground.
Note that if there is a common ground, you need to check the combined ampacity on the common ground. Ground ampacity is additive where common single wire is used (not usually the case) like on a common ground stud from which one ground wire goes to chassis. Unlike a true neutral in 240VAC wiring (where opposite sine wave signals actually cancel each other to some extent), a common DC ground carries the sum of all loads (no cancelling possible).
Make sure all connections are tight; labelled is even better.
Also, IIWM, I'd make sure the 15A circuit truly had capacity; if you have the WRV wiring schematic, it should show the actual devices on a factory install for your rig.
Just so as not to fry the brain of the next electrician after you, keep wire colors conventional: red=hot, black=ground, so the next guy can visually see you have switched either the hot or the ground.
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