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Old 05-02-2014, 07:09 PM   #1
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Won't shut off

My 36SDS 330 cummins won't shut off. Turned the key off and all the gauges go dead but the engine keeps running. Finally started pulling fuses and it shut off. Put the fuses back in and it starts right up but won't shut off again. Any ideas?
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:24 PM   #2
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Is your ignition switch in the dash board or on the steering column ?
Sounds like an internal ignition switch problem, if your pulling a fuse and it stops the engine then that fuse is powered up when it shouldn't be .
Any idea what the fuse is labeled ? Ign, 1 , Ign 2 ?
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:04 PM   #3
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I'll have to look and see which fuse I pulled
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:12 AM   #4
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I'd look at the fuel shut off solenoid. It's only purpose is to open and allow fuel flow and close to stop motor.
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:16 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Lindy View Post
I'd look at the fuel shut off solenoid. It's only purpose is to open and allow fuel flow and close to stop motor.
Early Cummins engines used a fuel shut off solenoid , mostly the 12 valve engines, power to open & run, spring loaded to shut off when power removed. Later Cummins with, VF-44 pump or common rail & electronic injectors, the ECM , just stops powering, the pump or the injectors.
hartk1, has to remove a fuse to stop the engine so somehow the power to that fuse isn't being shut down, ignition switch or faulty wiring, allowing power to the fuse when it should not be powered up.
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:50 AM   #6
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It is an ecm engine. So Im guessing ignition switch
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:58 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by hartk1 View Post
It is an ecm engine. So Im guessing ignition switch
If the switch is dash mounted, and the key is rectangular, could be , from a 70's GM pick-up , mine is , only a few $ at Auto-Zone , Napa.
Let me know and , I'll post how to remove the key tumblers.
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Old 05-03-2014, 03:00 PM   #8
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OK. I really need to come to grips with the fact, I'm old and forgetful and , there's another word that I can't think of at the moment.

Relays, when you get the circuit name from the fuse your pulling to stop the engine , you need to check your chassis wiring and power boxes for a relay in the same circuit. If the fuse is labeled " Ign 1 " then look for a relay with the same label. Could be a sticking relay causing your problem too.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:48 PM   #9
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I believe its the ignition switch.
Thanks for all the advice
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Old 05-06-2014, 01:41 PM   #10
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If the 1555 white wire of the ignition switch is hot w/key off the its the switch. If no 12v on#1555 then it's a sick relay as Skip suggested; maybe the remote start relay.
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:53 PM   #11
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Checking on it now. Thanks for the great pointers
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Old 05-07-2014, 12:41 PM   #12
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It appears that I lied like a dog in the dirt with fleas, ticks & mange. In the center spot on the ignition switch is#1535 and not 1555 (which latter wire occurs at the remote starter solenoid). Color will be red on pre Vanso rigs and white on Vanso's.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:06 PM   #13
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I would vote for the switch, since it GM, and they had bad ones back in the late 90's hense all the recalled cars. In the future, turning off thee master coach switches will also kill the engine as well, at least it does on mine. Found this out the hard way, when I changed the alternator and put on a wire (leese-neville old unit) and it was not needed on the Delco Remy 28si replacement I installed.

FWIW-have heard from several folks one up at home and two down at Cummins Coburg, OR, that the price of new alternators has litterly gone through the roof. In 2010, I paid 328.00 for a new Delco 28si units is upwards of 600 and change, some places want 900. If this is in fact true, I think I will try to find a spare since those prices will kill me.
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