02 national islander

[goandy]

battery boost won't work. where is the 105 amp CB?

[live wire]

Have you found your problem yet?

[garym114]

There is no circuit breaker for the battery boost function. There is a 150 amp DC circuit breaker for the leveling jacks and generator start power which is not related to the problem.
The boost switch operates the interconnect solenoid and operates from the coach or chassis battery power. One of the battery sets must be charged for it to work.
Can you hear the solenoid click when you depress the switch? If so the solenoid is working but the contacts are burnt and not making contact.
If both battery sets are charging when plugged in the solenoid is working and connecting the two battery sets.

[Retiredblade]

I've got the same problem, I have the complete service manuals on my 2001 Islander and is says the battery boost curcuit has a 105 amp breaker, but can't find it. One member says to check behind the curcuit board beside the inverter/charger, so when light comes I will. The one schematic I need is Missing! Where in the world does the battery boost solenoid reside at?

[Retiredblade]

Quote:

Originally Posted by garym114 There is no circuit breaker for the battery boost function. There is a 150 amp DC circuit breaker for the leveling jacks and generator start power which is not related to the problem. The boost switch operates the interconnect solenoid and operates from the coach or chassis battery power. One of the battery sets must be charged for it to work. Can you hear the solenoid click when you depress the switch? If so the solenoid is working but the contacts are burnt and not making contact. If both battery sets are charging when plugged in the solenoid is working and connecting the two battery sets.

You give some interesting info, but it has me scratching my head. section 6.1.5.2. JUMP STARTING USING THE BATTERY BOOSTER SOLENOID in my Dynomax Islander owner's manual says:
....."Another option for providing the starting motor with electric power to start the engine is by using the battery booster solenoid switch. This solenoid will direct the domestic battery power to the chassis batteries, while held down. The switch is located on the transmission panel located to the left of the driver. Hold the switch down for 30 seconds, allowing the chassis batteries to charge. Release the switch to deactuate the booster solenoid before attempting to start the engine. Failure to do this may result in the tripping of the 105A breaker (refer to electical schematic #S0903.03 in the Appendix Section)......." I've searched and searched, can't find a 105V breaker. I am wondering if perhaps a revision in the construction was made and the manual is not reflecting the revision?

[Retiredblade]

Quote:

Originally Posted by goandy battery boost won't work. where is the 105 amp CB?

Goandy, Did you get your battery booster working? I finally got mine working after hours of figuring and work. Here is what I did: I when up to the dash and found four wires going to the booster switch, the top two were for the light in the switch when headlights are turned on. The bottom two, yellow and red go somewhere and turn into white/red and white/yellow back in the battery bay. Previous owner had those two wire connected to the wrong terminals. The schematic Rook sent me shows they are suppose to connect to terminal P1 White/red/ and P14 white/yellow. Then the two little wires soldered on the back of these terminals are suppose to go to the little terminals on the solenoid. I replaced the solenoid, got everything hooked up, I sat there on my stool, told the wife to press the booster switch, as soon as she did it a spot on the printed circuit board started sparking, I yelled and she let off instantly, no physical damage. So, back to the drawing board. I moved the solenoid out from behind the circuit board and made a place for it on the side of the bay. Attached chassis battery cable one side, coach cable on other, took w/y off of P14, made a little 4" wire to make it longer attached it one side of the small terminal along with another small wire going to body ground. the W/R wire remained on P1. So one side of the solenoid is + (P1) the other is - (P14). Before when connected like schematic shows it had positive going to both little terminals. Now, one of those little wires coming from back of circuit is hanging free, don't need it. Now the wife hits the switch and solenoid engages and works. I called country coach and they don't have the missing schematic I need, I wish I knew where the yellow and red wire connects to the w/r, w/y wire.