2004 Dolphin - having some problems

[keninvic]

I have just purchased a 2004 Dolphin - love it, but having a few problems that maybe some of you can help me out on.

- house batteries are not being charged when engine running

- rear slide makes a very loud squeal in the 1st 1 1/2' of travel, I have tried spray lubricant, and bearing grease.. still squeals (very loud)

- fresh water pump runs on every few seconds, no sign of leaks at any of the faucets.. no sign of leaks behind the valve panel or the pump. And the hot water tank is now removed and bypassed and the pump still runs on.

Any ideas are most appreciated, thanks.

[The Incorrigible Dirigible]

To your water pump issue, ours did the same thing. The technician told us it was a worn-out seal that allowed air to get into the system--the pump runs every so often when it detects the drop in pressure.

[keninvic]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Incorrigible Dirigible To your water pump issue, ours did the same thing. The technician told us it was a worn-out seal that allowed air to get into the system--the pump runs every so often when it detects the drop in pressure.

A worn out seal in the pump? Is there a rebuild kit for these pumps?
(thanks for the reply)

[Belgian]

I had the same problem with my bedroom slide until I used what WSRG suggested, and that was to use 'carnuba' wax on the bottom of the slide. I bought some Mothers Carnuba wax and applied it to the bottom of the slide. Now it's quiet. What a relief!

[Alleyman]

Regarding your slide squeal; I have a 2004 Dolphin also. I found that where the rod that goes through the metal plate in the basement area, the square tubing that turns the gears, it was rubbing on the hole that was cut too small. I disconnected the rod and ground out the hole for enough clearance and cured the problem. It had cut a groove in the rod, so welded it over and ground it smooth. This was causing a loud squeal, scraping sound. Don't know if is your problem, but worth a look.

[keninvic]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alleyman Regarding your slide squeal; I have a 2004 Dolphin also. I found that where the rod that goes through the metal plate in the basement area, the square tubing that turns the gears, it was rubbing on the hole that was cut too small. I disconnected the rod and ground out the hole for enough clearance and cured the problem. It had cut a groove in the rod, so welded it over and ground it smooth. This was causing a loud squeal, scraping sound. Don't know if is your problem, but worth a look.

Alleyman, it sounds like you are talking about the living rm slide - the bedroom slide is the one making the loud squealing noise, it is a different system. Correct me if I am wrong, thanks.

[The Incorrigible Dirigible]

Quote:

Originally Posted by keninvic A worn out seal in the pump? Is there a rebuild kit for these pumps? (thanks for the reply)

Not certain; depends on the manufacturer, I'd imagine.

[speed racer]

(squeal) Run the slide out and clean the bottom and sides and the seals then wax the bottom and sides with a good paste wax. (waterpump) It sound like the check valve in the pump is leaking and letting the presure leak back into the tank. You can either rebuild the pump and yes they do sell a kit or what I did was put a check valve on the inlet side of the pump.

[two2go]

My experiences:
- Water pump would "burp" every few minutes. Replaced pump. Same condition. The problem turned out to the 3-way valve that selects fill tank or city connect. It had a slight leak. Replaced valve and all is well. (Actually, I did a major replumb job behind the panel-see my old post for details.)

- Bedroom slide out. Check the condition of the worm gear in the drive. Are the teeth worn or missing? Mine got so bad I had to totally replace the unit at great $$$.

- Charging. Can't help on that other than do a full electrical check-out. Do you have the 12v schematics? They are available on line.

[keninvic]

Quote:

Originally Posted by two2go My experiences: - Water pump would "burp" every few minutes. Replaced pump. Same condition. The problem turned out to the 3-way valve that selects fill tank or city connect. It had a slight leak. Replaced valve and all is well. (Actually, I did a major replumb job behind the panel-see my old post for details.) Thanks, I ordered a Watts B-6780 1/2" diverter valve today. - Bedroom slide out. Check the condition of the worm gear in the drive. Are the teeth worn or missing? Mine got so bad I had to totally replace the unit at great $$$. The worm gear does have teeth that are uniformly flattened off - i.e. not symmetrically round - is this normal? all the teeth are identical. The slide only makes noise for the last foot and a bit, just as it starts to open, or just before it closes. - Charging. Can't help on that other than do a full electrical check-out. Do you have the 12v schematics? They are available on line.

Schematics are not very clear - maybe somone has a bigger jpg file.

[two2go]

If the slide gears look good and the binding is at a certain place, there may be an alignment problem. My slide needed adjustment after installation of the new drive motor. One corner was not flush on the outside when closed.

[Edouard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by keninvic I have just purchased a 2004 Dolphin - love it, but having a few problems that maybe some of you can help me out on. - house batteries are not being charged when engine running - rear slide makes a very loud squeal in the 1st 1 1/2' of travel, I have tried spray lubricant, and bearing grease.. still squeals (very loud) - fresh water pump runs on every few seconds, no sign of leaks at any of the faucets.. no sign of leaks behind the valve panel or the pump. And the hot water tank is now removed and bypassed and the pump still runs on. Any ideas are most appreciated, thanks.

Ken,
- House batteries need to be checked for a.Water level, only use Distilled water, then b. Specific Gravity, all the cells in one battery should be at same level vis a vis Spec/Gravity. If not, they need to be Equalized, (you can do a seach here and/or on the RV.Net forum.
- Rear bedroom slide, had the same high pitch squeal, put silicon spray lub on all the white nylon guide/gliders. Problem gone. Carnuba on outside bottom where rollers glide I learned here a few days ago. On my to do list, I cleaned and waxed my under slide surfaces already, but will redo with Carnuba Mothers Wax.
- Water pump intermitent: just other suggestions, need to correct mine aswell. It's usually the backflow valve they say.
Enjoy, Edouard.

[keninvic]

Quote:

Originally Posted by keninvic I have just purchased a 2004 Dolphin - love it, but having a few problems that maybe some of you can help me out on. - house batteries are not being charged when engine running - rear slide makes a very loud squeal in the 1st 1 1/2' of travel, I have tried spray lubricant, and bearing grease.. still squeals (very loud) - fresh water pump runs on every few seconds, no sign of leaks at any of the faucets.. no sign of leak behind the valve panel or the pump. And the hot water tank is now removed and bypassed and the pump still runs on. Any ideas are most appreciated, thanks.

In regards to the house batteries not charging... I found a blown 1 AMP fuse on the DC Control board. I purchased another 1 Amp fuse but in looking at the schematic it looks like F32 should be a 3 Amp fuse. Can someone confirm this .. 1 or 3 amp? (replacing the fuse fixed the problem, house batteries are now being charged from the alternator)

[two2go]

According to my 2005 Owner's Guide for Workhorse chassis, F32 is 3 amp. It is labeled "Ckt Brd" and "Coach Bat".

I am not having much success with house battery life. I have one battery 2 years old and another 1 year old, and they drop to below 12 v combined within 15 minutes of putting any load on them. I bought a good multi-stage charger this week and put it on them, and it was registering over 15 volts much of the time doing a "de-sulfation" charge. It finally leveled off and showed charge complete after about 20 hours total. I wonder if my batteries will be salvaged? Since we are hooked up most of the time, I think the Xantrex charger is not providing an equalizing charge because I do not have the option to activate it according to the manual. What do others do do maintain their batteries properly?
(edit) I found an answer by reading the Xantrex manual again. I need the optional remote control panel to be able to activate the equalizing option. What a bummer. NRV saved $120 by not putting in the RC panel, but guaranteed poor battery life in doing so, because all references say an eq. charge needs to be done regularl. The Xantrex inverter has the capability to do an equalization charge via the remote only. $120 at Gander Mountain and another $30 for the battery temperature monitor. I see a project ahead.