50 Amp Cord/ One 50 Amp AC Breaker.

[Edouard]

Busy with my Learning Curve search today.

Is it correct to have only one 50 Amp Main breaker in the AC Control Breaker panel?
I was under the impression that a 50 Amp cord carried 2 x 50 Amp inputs to the coach, meaning the coach had two seperate 50 Amp dedicated lines to appliances/outlets.

Thanks, Edouard.

[Hitchhiker]

A properly wired RV 50 amp service will have two 50 amp breakers, one each for L1 and L2. They may be strapped together with a bar on the handle that gives an appearance of one, but it's still electrically two breakers.

[Route 66]

Newer 50 amp breakers look like this;

A single handle controlling the 2 breakers.

Note that either type of 50 amp breaker would take up 2 spaces in the panel.

[Edouard]

Thanks Richard & Dirk. That would explain why the closed panel to the left of the breaker rocker itself is a closed panel. Great, people of these forums are so helpful.

Now that leads to another AC power question. Ha.
My Xantrex Freedom 458 Model 10-1000watt Invert/Charger supports the following in Invert Mode: Front & rear TV's, aswell as corresponding DVD/VCR's & Surround Sound System, 2x Passenger side outlets, 1 exterior basement outlet, 2x Bedside outlets, Refer & Icemaker outlet, plus the 120v Water Heater!
What it does not support: Convection Microwave, Kitchen Counter outlet, Dinette outlet, Bathroom sink outlet, Washer & Dryer outlet.

Now I can understand, being a 1000watt Inverter not supporting the Conv/Micro, but it supports the 120v Water Heater, HUH. We can use propane.
Supporting the Refer/Icemaker works great running down the road.
I did not check if it handled the Furnace, but suppose the 12volt DC would do that, nor did I check the roof Air conditioners, presume that would not be possible anyway.
I would like it to support the Kitchen Counter, Bath counter & Dinette, we do not have a Washer/Dryer anyway, so I put the 15amp bracker Off in any case.
Thought's, suggestions, I know that it would be National RV that did the install, but is there anyway I can make a few changes, oh, I did check all of the GCFI recepticals, tested & all are in order when 120v is present at each.
Sorry, another long post. Edouard.

[M&EM]

I suppose NRV thinking was hair dryers and toasters and electric skillets. All likely above 1000watts.

A larger inverter capacity along with added batteries would be needed at the least plus some re wiring at the breaker panel.

[Edouard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by M&EM I suppose NRV thinking was hair dryers and toasters and electric skillets. All likely above 1000watts. A larger inverter capacity along with added batteries would be needed at the least plus some re wiring at the breaker panel.

Yes, I agree, but what about running my electric razor, what about the coffee maker, juice maker, mixer for make cake etc. We can use common sense to conserve. Heck, they have it hooked up to operate the Electric Hot Water Heater!!!
I do have the Genset to run everything and to recharge the batteries. Not certain if I need to get a larger inverter & batteries, just looking to see how other National rv's are wired to support with a 1,000 watt inverter. Anybody? Thanks Edouard.

[M&EM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edouard Yes, I agree, but what about running my electric razor, what about the coffee maker, juice maker, mixer for make cake etc. We can use common sense to conserve. Heck, they have it hooked up to operate the Electric Hot Water Heater!!! I do have the Genset to run everything and to recharge the batteries. Not certain if I need to get a larger inverter & batteries, just looking to see how other National rv's are wired to support with a 1,000 watt inverter. Anybody? Thanks Edouard.

Common sense is all you need to make it work.

I do all of the above now after I removed the NRV 600 watt inverter. I replaced it with a 1500 watt Heart Interface(pre Freedom 458)and added a 30 amp sub panel. I have each branch circuit breakered and now sourced through the inverter except water heater and ACs via that sub panel fed from a single 30 amp breaker in the original electrical panel.

Also added 2 more golf cart batteries. This arrangement allows any one large appliance to be run at a time including our microwave and toaster.

[Edouard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by M&EM Common sense is all you need to make it work. I do all of the above now after I removed the NRV 600 watt inverter. I replaced it with a 1500 watt Heart Interface(pre Freedom 458)and added a 30 amp sub panel. I have each branch circuit breakered and now sourced through the inverter except water heater and ACs via that sub panel fed from a single 30 amp breaker in the original electrical panel. Also added 2 more golf cart batteries. This arrangement allows any one large appliance to be run at a time including our microwave and toaster.

See, I knew there was a way to get what you want, within reason, I still think I should be able to re-direct to the outlets I am missing and then work with common sense to use the various appliances, not including the 120v water heater or the roof ac's. Thanks. Edouard.