awe geeze, plumbing problem.

[Zogman]

So my P-trap that is below the shower broke on me. I went to Home depot and Lowes and they all say that my trap is reverse from what is a normal one in the house. Has anyone here sourced plumbing parts for the shower. Thanks Zoli

[Zogman]

So my P-trap that is below the shower broke on me. I went to Home depot and Lowes and they all say that my trap is reverse from what is a normal one in the house. Has anyone here sourced plumbing parts for the shower. Thanks Zoli

[M&EM]

Had exact same problem on ours during first road trip with it in 2003. I solved it on the go with the use of a flexible rubber coupling. Home Depot and other places sell these for flexible coupling for large diameter PVC pipes. They tighten up with spiral screw clamps. The size I got fit snugly over the broken P trap and the brass threaded drain fitting on the bottom of the shower floor.

After our return, I had NRV in Perris redo my temporary repair with their factory parts. Their repair leaked terribly and was redone twice by them. They finally re installed the flexible coupling I used. That was 5 years ago. Still water tight.

Getting to that drain under the shower floor can be quite challenging!

[jerseyjim]

"Getting to that drain....challenging!"

Did you get it from underneath? Or did you remove the bathtub?

If you went from underneath...I guess you might have to remove a holding tank? How'd you do it?

[tropical36]

I've don't have a problem with mine as yet, but there is an access plate under the driver's side rear fender well and well away from the gray tank itself, so hopefully it won't be that much of a problem, if I have to do repairs there. These things like to hide from you, so take a close look in the right places.

[M&EM]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jerseyjim:
"Getting to that drain....challenging!"

Did you get it from underneath? Or did you remove the bathtub?

If you went from underneath...I guess you might have to remove a holding tank? How'd you do it? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Jim, I have a stall shower , no bath tub. My Particular floor plan and plumbing arrangements may be common to other NRV floorplans but maybe not so much with other manufactures.

I was able to access the P trap by removing the panel beneath the 120 volt distribution box on the common wall to the shower.
There is only room to look at... or... to insert one hand to get at the P trap, so good dexterity is a requirement!

Since the shower floor is blocked above the main floor of the coach to provide drainage slope, there is space under the shower pan. NRV also provided additional clearance for the P trap by routing out the floor directly below the P trap. The inlet of the trap is a screw type flange that mates(screws) to the brass drain hardware. The outlet of the trap also attaches to the drain pipe to the holding tanks in a similar way.

I was able to find at, HD, a rubber clamp-able connector fitting for under $10 that fit snugly onto the brass drain pipe and also on the remaining neck of the pvc inlet of the P trap. The real challenge was tightening up the spiral screw clamps using one blind hand. No leaks or problems since 2003.

I have talked with numerous other NRV owners that had the same leakage problem. I believe NRV did not allow enough strain relief in their plumbing design.
I also have seen the same kind of repair done by some of the NRV techs after my problem occurred so maybe NRV made some design changes in later models.

[M&EM]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Zogman:
So my P-trap that is below the shower broke on me. I went to Home depot and Lowes and they all say that my trap is reverse from what is a normal one in the house. Has anyone here sourced plumbing parts for the shower. Thanks Zoli </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Zogman,

I suggest a plumbing supply house. The fittings NRV used in our 2003 MY was 1 1/4" abs ptrap
NIBCO#5895 plus a hard some hard to find adapters with the following numbers :
DWV canplas CANADA ABS 3214 B181.1 ASTM D2661 or 1 1/4 X 1 1/2 #3218 adapter

Hope this helps.
Marty

[Zogman]

You guys are all correct. First of all, I had to removed my drivers rear tires to access the inspection plate. The collar on the mickey mouse attachements to the shower drain had broken. As I said, I brought my P-trap to HD, Lowes and today to Ferguson Plumbing and they all said that my P-trap is upside down. With that being said, I have the correct Nibco part #5895 as listed in the above post. Problem is where to get that. I will hunt around for it but if I can't find it, the flexible tube might be a ways of going. Any pictures of what it looked like when it was finished? Great help guys... and as Red Green used to say... We're all in this together"
Cheers

[Richard S.]

Nibco has a web site http://www.nibco.com/cms.do

you might try contacting them.

Canplas web site http://www.canplasplumbing.com/home.php?category=

[M&EM]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Zogman:
You guys are all correct. the flexible tube might be a ways of going. Any pictures of what it looked like when it was finished?
Cheers </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Zogman, This is only picture I could find showing the flex coupling.. http://www.irv2.com/photopost/data/9...m/IMG_4414.jpg

[Zogman]

Well I have to say thanks a ton for your recommendation M&EM. The flexible coupling was the ticket. While installing it I noticed that the P-Trap was about .375" away from a clean connection so if I went and purchased another P-trap, I could see it breaking again because of the stress. The flexible coupler was a piece of cake to install and it should last. Thanks a million. I sure love these forums!!!!

Zoli