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Bath Overhead Vent (12-Volt Location?)
11-17-2010, 11:28 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 193
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Hi, we purchased a Fantastic Creat A Breeze 3-spd Vent to replace the original non-powered vent in the location over the Bath sink.
I removed the inside trim but see only four vertical wooded sides, no holes or any indication of a 12 volt wire, just a sticky printed note stating (Wash Dome with Water-Soaked Cloth. DO NOT RUB DRY).
Now the seperate Toilet room is powered with an inexpensive LOUD 5 inch fan, but I would rather have the newer powered vent over the sink which is just beside the shower stall, better located to exhaust the shower.
Anyone know if there is 12-volt in the over sink vent location, and where I might drill a one inch hole to locate the wire, in the vertical vent side wall of course? Quite surprised that National would install a vent without 12-volt accessible there, but??
Otherwise, I may have to fish new wire from the vanity light which is about 12-18" away in the outside wall cabinet. Thanks Edouard.
__________________
Edouard: 2008 National Dolphin DL35C.
W-24 Chassis, Allison 2350 MH Pushbutton Tranny, Blue Ox Towbar. 2010 Equinox Toad.SGII-X Gauge
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11-17-2010, 02:01 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,304
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Edouard
Some folks have had odor problems after installing a fan near the toilet. It seems a high CFM fan draws air from the black tank into the coach. If you start getting a bad smell after installing the Fantastic Fan check the seals in your toilet.
Dick
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11-18-2010, 04:48 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theberrys
Edouard
Some folks have had odor problems after installing a fan near the toilet. It seems a high CFM fan draws air from the black tank into the coach. If you start getting a bad smell after installing the Fantastic Fan check the seals in your toilet.
Dick
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I guess that's why Nat'l installed a lousy 5inch noisy fan in the toilet room, no one will run it!
Nope, I'm looking to install the fan over the bathsink/shower area.
Thanks.
__________________
Edouard: 2008 National Dolphin DL35C.
W-24 Chassis, Allison 2350 MH Pushbutton Tranny, Blue Ox Towbar. 2010 Equinox Toad.SGII-X Gauge
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11-18-2010, 05:31 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Pond Piggies Club Mid Atlantic Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Posts: 887
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The odor occurs when the fan is running and you flush the toilet with the bathroom door closed. This is because the closed door restricts the flow of air to the fan and creates a slight vacuum in the bathroom. When you flush, a small (but stinky) amount of air gets drawn up from the black tank through the opening in the toilet. There are three easy things you can do before you flush to help reduce the odor: - Open the bathroom door.
- Momentarily, turn off or reduce the speed of the fan.
- (optional) Think about how smelly a pit toilet (outhouse) is and how lucky you are (especially if it's raining and/or three o'clock in the morning) to have a bathroom in your RV.
  
__________________
2009 GMC Sierra 2500HD | Crew Cab | Standard Box | 4WD | Duramax/Allison
2000 Jayco Eagle 266 | FBS | TT
1986 Coleman Laramie pop-up -- Still in the family!!!
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11-18-2010, 06:53 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 193
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[QUOTE=Frank P. Martin;737209]The odor occurs when the fan is running and you flush the toilet with the bathroom door closed. This is because the closed door restricts the flow of air to the fan and creates a slight vacuum in the bathroom. When you flush, a small (but stinky) amount of air gets drawn up from the black tank through the opening in the toilet. There are three easy things you can do before you flush to help reduce the odor: - Open the bathroom door.
- Momentarily, turn off or reduce the speed of the fan.
- (optional) Think about how smelly a pit toilet (outhouse) is and how lucky you are (especially if it's raining and/or three o'clock in the morning) to have a bathroom in your RV.
I don't know why this post got off track,
1. We are not replacing the Toilet room fan.
2. We do not use the lousy noisy Toilet room fan.
3. Out toilet room door has a 2" clearance at the bottom and 3+" of clearance at the top.
4. We are looking for anyone who has an awareness of the 12 volt wiring for the vent over the bath sink/toilet area.
Thanks anyway. Edouard.
__________________
Edouard: 2008 National Dolphin DL35C.
W-24 Chassis, Allison 2350 MH Pushbutton Tranny, Blue Ox Towbar. 2010 Equinox Toad.SGII-X Gauge
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11-18-2010, 07:15 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 882
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If it is like mine the vents are in line.I would remove the powered fan trim and drill a hole to connect the two vents.That would allow you to feed power to the other vent.I added a small fan with a separate switch at the fan so I can leave the power on and turn off the fan.
BOB
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11-18-2010, 09:46 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bldrbob
If it is like mine the vents are in line.I would remove the powered fan trim and drill a hole to connect the two vents.That would allow you to feed power to the other vent.I added a small fan with a separate switch at the fan so I can leave the power on and turn off the fan.
BOB
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Yes you are correct, the toilet room fan is in line with the non-powered vent over the sink.
Rather than run a wire accross the ceiling from the toilet room wall-switched fan, (terrible loud 5 inch fan) which would require turning on both fans inline, I think that I will drill a hole towards the outside wall toward the overhead vanity light which is also a wall mounted switch, but having the light on with the fan would be fine.
When not needing the vanity vent fan on, I can simply reach up and turn off the switch in the fan housing itself.
Thanks, you lead me to make a decision.Will post when job is complete. Edouard.
__________________
Edouard: 2008 National Dolphin DL35C.
W-24 Chassis, Allison 2350 MH Pushbutton Tranny, Blue Ox Towbar. 2010 Equinox Toad.SGII-X Gauge
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11-18-2010, 11:21 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 882
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Not sure how you will access the power from the light.I would drill a hole from one vent to the other.Then I would wire a switch at the loud fan to control it while the wall switch was on. Another switch at the new fan would control it.
BOB
__________________
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11-18-2010, 12:15 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 193
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You're right, accessing the light fixture will be a bit tricky, but I have a right angle drill with me. The fixture is actually in the box upper section of the vanity/mirror/medicine cabinet, I should find room to fish and then hide my mistakes!!
The toilet wall switched lound fan could also be used by disabling that fan and bypassing to the new one as you suggest, then the new vanity fan would be wall switched that way aswell. So now I have two choices before poping holes.
Will let you know what I end up doing. Thanks again. Edouard.
__________________
Edouard: 2008 National Dolphin DL35C.
W-24 Chassis, Allison 2350 MH Pushbutton Tranny, Blue Ox Towbar. 2010 Equinox Toad.SGII-X Gauge
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11-18-2010, 10:05 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,040
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Edouard, I'm not sure how the 2008s by NRV did their ceiling wiring. If it is similar to mine(2003) and has ceiling lights centered front to rear along the length of the coach, there should be 12 volts also running the same path. Try removing a ceiling light nearest your bath or new fan location. With the light removed and 12 volt wires exposed look for orange wires simply drill through foam insulation to the wooden vent framing and fish a pair of wires.
Marty
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
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11-18-2010, 10:11 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank P. Martin
The odor occurs when the fan is running and you flush the toilet with the bathroom door closed. This is because the closed door restricts the flow of air to the fan and creates a slight vacuum in the bathroom. When you flush, a small (but stinky) amount of air gets drawn up from the black tank through the opening in the toilet. There are three easy things you can do before you flush to help reduce the odor: - Open the bathroom door.
- Momentarily, turn off or reduce the speed of the fan.
- (optional) Think about how smelly a pit toilet (outhouse) is and how lucky you are (especially if it's raining and/or three o'clock in the morning) to have a bathroom in your RV.
  
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Option 4: reverse fan direction to provide positive air pressure when flushing. Except when fan vent is real close to the black tank roof vent
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
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11-19-2010, 05:59 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Pond Piggies Club Mid Atlantic Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Posts: 887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M&EM
Option 4: reverse fan direction to provide positive air pressure when flushing. Except when fan vent is real close to the black tank roof vent 
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Yeah, That's a good idea too!  Didn't think of that one.
__________________
2009 GMC Sierra 2500HD | Crew Cab | Standard Box | 4WD | Duramax/Allison
2000 Jayco Eagle 266 | FBS | TT
1986 Coleman Laramie pop-up -- Still in the family!!!
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11-19-2010, 08:44 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M&EM
Edouard, I'm not sure how the 2008s by NRV did their ceiling wiring. If it is similar to mine(2003) and has ceiling lights centered front to rear along the length of the coach, there should be 12 volts also running the same path. Try removing a ceiling light nearest your bath or new fan location. With the light removed and 12 volt wires exposed look for orange wires simply drill through foam insulation to the wooden vent framing and fish a pair of wires.
Marty
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Thanks for the suggestion, but it appears I would have to drill through the Driver side AC duct aswell to get to the light fixture, will consider if I cannot source from the overhead vanity light fixture.
I not realize also if I go all the way across to the toilet fan wiring, I will be drilling through both AC vent ducts. Decisions, decisions. Edouard.
__________________
Edouard: 2008 National Dolphin DL35C.
W-24 Chassis, Allison 2350 MH Pushbutton Tranny, Blue Ox Towbar. 2010 Equinox Toad.SGII-X Gauge
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11-19-2010, 10:13 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edouard
Thanks for the suggestion, but it appears I would have to drill through the Driver side AC duct aswell to get to the light fixture, will consider if I cannot source from the overhead vanity light fixture.
I not realize also if I go all the way across to the toilet fan wiring, I will be drilling through both AC vent ducts. Decisions, decisions. Edouard.
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Actually you may not need to drill thru the ac passages. The foam insulation blocks used by NRV have lateral channels roof side and ceiling side that are wide enough to snake a wire thru. I have used this feature to bypass the ac cavities when I installed my bedroom FanTastic fan. I also tapped off the 12 volt feeds for the ceiling lights that were available along the center line of the ceiling. I have come across some instances in my rv where NRV did use those lateral channels for wire chases in the area of the bathroom.
If I were doing what you are, I would first bore holes in the sides of wood framing you described in original post to get a better look for wiring that may already be in there.
Marty
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
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