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Old 04-21-2015, 05:32 PM   #1
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Battery disconnect won't disconnect

I have a 1998 Tradewinds and all of a sudden the battery disconnect doesn't work. The red light stays on as does the 12v power. I checked the rocker switch and it seems ok; mom on-off-on. I'm probably missing something simple but am at a loss. Has anyone had this or a similar problem. Thanks---Dane
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:46 PM   #2
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If you are talking about the house batteries, I am not able to disconnect them if I am plugged into shore power.


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Old 04-21-2015, 05:57 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply Chuck. I've always been able to disconnect and thats what has me baffled.
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:59 PM   #4
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Chances are your Battery Control Center was produced by:


R V Custom Products
14000 Anson Ave, Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
Phone:(562) 921-8353


I don't know the location of your BBC (I have a gas coach), but the Disconnect Solenoid will be below the circuit panel on the right side.


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Old 04-21-2015, 06:32 PM   #5
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Dane......your 12 volt distribution panel is located in the last rear bay, passenger side, under a cover, on the back wall behind the Inverter. The 12 volt disconnect relay is located on the backside of the this circuit board. It cannot be seen from the front, but can be felt with your hand.....and if you have to replace it, you will have to remove the panel from the wall to get to it. The battery boost relay and the 150 amp circuit breaker that feeds your jack DC motor and the generator starter are also on the back side of this circuit board. on the 12VDC distribution panel, check if you have 12.5VDC from JP2 to ground, on and off, as you operate the disconnect switch.....if not, then your battery disconnect relay is latched closed and not switching for some reason....The disconnect relay is a switch between JP3 and JP2. This diagram should help...... Rook .

12v,120v power system all models.pdf
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Old 04-21-2015, 06:46 PM   #6
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Thanks Rook, I am aware of the 12 volt disconnect relay. I have it out but not sure how to check it. There is small automotive relay also and I have it ordered ($15) but I can't find the Power-Tek relay. There's a phone number on the part itself but no answer, I guess they're out of business. Any ideas on replacement relays?
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:08 PM   #7
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Yes.......these are the people that made the circuit boards. Call them and see if they have a new or used relay. If all else fails.....just remove the relay and use a SPST heavy duty manual switch between JP3 and JP2 on the board. Rook

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14000 Anson Ave, Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:19 PM   #8
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Thanks again Rook. Got the same info from Fred. You guys are great--Thanks----Dane
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:24 PM   #9
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How to check your relay......there will be 4 connections on the relay.....two heavy duty that connect to JP2 and JP3 and two smaller wires that operate the coil that magnetizes and closes and opens the contacts between the heavy duty connections. Disconnect one of the smaller leads and apply 12.5VDC to it and the other smaller lead......on and off......you should hear the relay click on and off. I have a spare board and I will look tomorrow and post any corrections. Rook
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:48 PM   #10
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I have exactly the same problem. When I first started to try to figure out why the disconnect was not responding (light stays on), it felt like the interconnect solenoid was responding to the switch but not disconnecting anything. I removed it and test it and found that it was bad so I replaced it. Nothing changed so I replaced the relay that's soldered to the circuit board because the yellow wire appeared to be connect to this relay and to the solenoid and was responding to the disconnect switch. That didn't work either. With some further research I determined that the large black box below the circuit board on the right side is the disconnect solenoid. This has now started to click when the disconnect switch is pushed but again house lights do not turn off. It is obvious that I do not know what I am doing but I am willing to replace the disconnect solenoid if I knew where to buy it. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:43 PM   #11
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Wow! While I was preparing the above post, some great info was posted by Rook. I will check my system, but I think JP2 and JP3 are hardwired together. I will have to do some checking. Thanks for the info and drawings!!
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:13 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rook View Post
How to check your relay......there will be 4 connections on the relay.....two heavy duty that connect to JP2 and JP3 and two smaller wires that operate the coil that magnetizes and closes and opens the contacts between the heavy duty connections. Disconnect one of the smaller leads and apply 12.5VDC to it and the other smaller lead......on and off......you should hear the relay click on and off. I have a spare board and I will look tomorrow and post any corrections. Rook
Correction.....be safe and disconnect BOTH small wires on the relay and apply the 12VDC to the terminals on the relay....on and off....should hear the relay click closed and then open. An ohmmeter across the large terminals will verify that the relay is actually opening and closing. Rook
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:08 AM   #13
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Rook; Thanks for the post last night on checking the relay however, the relay I'm looking at is not your typical Ford relay. I guess it serves the same purpose but this is a sealed rectangular plastic box approximately 1x2x3 inches and labeled "Power-Tek battery disconnect RL-1001 REV B". On one end are the large connectors and on the other are three wires (20/22 ga?) labeled black (gnd), Green (off), and blue (on). I've applied 12v to black/green and black/blue with no effect. This solenoid is mounted between the interconnect solenoid and the 150 amp breaker that goes to the jack and generator and is connected to JP3 and JP2 on the board. What you say about a switch between JP3 and JP2 makes sense and therefore this Power-Tek solenoid could be replaced by a typical 4 terminal solenoid (I hope!). I'm going to call RV Custom Products provided by Fred and yourself and see if they have additional information. Thanks again------Dane
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:39 AM   #14
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Apparently we have a slightly different wiring set up.....my relay sounds similar to yours in size and shape, but only has a grey and violet wire coil connection, plus the two large terminals. This relay is normally "open" and requires 12 VDC across the coil connectioins to close the contact between the large terminals and that then supplies 12VDC to the coach functions. Remove the 12VDC, and the contacts open and turns off the 12VDC supply to the coach. Sounds like your relay has contacts that are stuck (welded) closed. Rook
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