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Old 04-16-2015, 04:56 PM   #15
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Did you verify the board is bad by following the troubleshooting guide I uploaded and calling RV Custom Products to verify your findings? If in fact the board is bad RV Custom Products will sell you a new one.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:21 PM   #16
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I seem to have all the blue-prints for a 2002 Islander.
If needed, they fold out to be 36x36 inches.. it's a nightmare!
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Old 04-17-2015, 04:41 AM   #17
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Solenoid

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Originally Posted by hueyh70 View Post
Sam thank you for your response. I'm new at this forum so i'll try and make more sense when posting! THe solenoid I replaced ties the domestic battery to the chassis battery for battery boost when started. I am beginning to think maybe that solenoid I bought was bad. Know it is in a hard area to get to and dread taking it out again but I'm kind of at my wits end here. Thanks for any thoughts you might have!
That solenoid is a item that is able to take voltage for several minutes without burning up, a regular solenoid will burn up. I looked into my files and can't find the paperwork on the solenoid I bought.
But, here is my thoughts, as long as your batteries that start your engine are good and taken care of, you will never use that aux. start. If everything electrical is working I would go ahead, enjoy the coach, go camping, etc and take your time and go over the schematics, you might come upon a simple solution. You could dis-connect the wires on each side of that solenoid if the thing is hot just sitting there.
I wouldn't buy a board until all trouble shooting points to it. The maker of that board will sell you one, they cost $300. and Mary is the name of the person who will answer the phone down there. Since I fixed mine, I have never had to use it.
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Old 04-17-2015, 05:47 PM   #18
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Ok, you are not getting the normal responses from the group of experts I would normally see responding to your issue. I have a hunch and please do not be offended.


Slow down, you move to fast, as the song goes. You are taking a shotgun approach to a problem and most likely will induce more problems along the way.


Take a breath, take a lot of pictures and start over. You have been leap frogging over issues and not really addressing your original complaint.
The tech pros sent us nerds here for training

Removing circuit boards and solenoids without the expertise or experience is just throwing a grenade into a fish bowl. You will have induced more problems than the incredible group of experts on this forum will be wanting to help with. They are a very patient and knowledgeable group but take it one step at a time. Some of the folks will give you their phone numbers and walk you through it.


This is not a flame. Just some experienced advice.
The experts sent us bumbling nerds here for training.
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retiredblade View Post
That solenoid is a item that is able to take voltage for several minutes without burning up, a regular solenoid will burn up.
That same solenoid is the interconnect solenoid. Besides being used for the emergency start function, it also connects the house and chassis batteries together when the house batteries reaches 13.2V to charge the chassis battery when connected to shore or generator power. The interconnect solenoid also connects the chassis and house batteries together when the engine is running to charge the house batteries.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:04 AM   #20
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solenoid

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Originally Posted by chboone View Post
That same solenoid is the interconnect solenoid. Besides being used for the emergency start function, it also connects the house and chassis batteries together when the house batteries reaches 13.2V to charge the chassis battery when connected to shore or generator power. The interconnect solenoid also connects the chassis and house batteries together when the engine is running to charge the house batteries.
Maybe on your rig it does, but not on mine, how did you come up with that summation?
For example, I was parked all winter, snowbirding and all systems worked fine, that solenoid is strictly transferring power from the coach batteries to chassis battery. Manual says to hold the switch on the dash down for 30 seconds, let up and try to start. If it fails, hold it a minute or so, let up and start. You don't keep that button engaged and start at the same time, I didn't know it but a wire vibrated loose, rendering that solenoid, useless if I needed it. I, as I posted, moved that solenoid out from behind the chassis board, so I can test it or replace it, if I needed to. What remains behind the electronic board is a square, black RV custom solenoid that I replaced last summer because it burnt out and I was unable to turn on the 12v system in side the coach (lights, etc). I have two more solenoids up front in the compartment under the drivers seat, and a solenoid on the starter. And a spare in a box in same compartment.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:22 AM   #21
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solenoid

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Originally Posted by chboone View Post
That same solenoid is the interconnect solenoid. Besides being used for the emergency start function, it also connects the house and chassis batteries together when the house batteries reaches 13.2V to charge the chassis battery when connected to shore or generator power. The interconnect solenoid also connects the chassis and house batteries together when the engine is running to charge the house batteries.
This is a PS. For your info. when engine is running, for example, going down the highway, your alternator charges you chassis battery, just like in your car, it doesn't send a charge to the house batteries. Your generator charges your house batteries. When parked and hooked to shore power, they both get charged, at least mine does, I have a Echo charger.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:41 AM   #22
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This is a PS. For your info. when engine is running, for example, going down the highway, your alternator charges you chassis battery, just like in your car, it doesn't send a charge to the house batteries. Your generator charges your house batteries. When parked and hooked to shore power, they both get charged, at least mine does, I have a Echo charger.
If your house batteries are not charging from the alternator there is something broke. We can discuss this until one of us is proven wrong.
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:18 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retiredblade View Post
This is a PS. For your info. when engine is running, for example, going down the highway, your alternator charges you chassis battery, just like in your car, it doesn't send a charge to the house batteries. Your generator charges your house batteries. When parked and hooked to shore power, they both get charged, at least mine does, I have a Echo charger.
The "summation" is from the RV Custom Products troubleshooting guide (TSG) for the 111979 and 111979A 12V distribution boards. Apparently that is what the OP has since he is asking for help getting a new 111979A board. Since that is what the OP has I would assume you have the same one. If yours is a 111979A board and the cross charging does not work there is something wrong with that circuit. If you don't have the documentation for yours call RV Custom Products and ask Mary to email you the documentation for your board. Mine was seven pages of information. Attached is the TSG again for the 12V distribution board. If your happy with the cross charging not working on yours that's fine, for me I want it to work the way it is designed to.

RV Custom Products
14000 Anson Ave, Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
(562) 921-8353

BTW, I recently installed 520 watts of solar that charges my house batteries. The cross charging circuit connects the house and chassis batteries together once the house batteries reaches 13.2V. So my house and chassis batteries are both being maintained by my solar.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf National 12V Distribution Center TSG.pdf (469.5 KB, 25 views)
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