Battery Interconnect Solenoid

[WSRG]

Today as I was messing around in my 2005 Sea Breeze 8360 when I noticed that I couldn't hear a clicking noise when I depressed the battery boost switch on the dash. After checking the solenoid, I found out that it seems to be energized all the time. If I disconnect the yellow wire from the solenoid, it would click [I assume it is disconnecting when I hear the click]. Does anyone know if this yellow wire is the wire that comes from the battery boost switch on the dash. It seems to me that this wire should only be hot when the battery boost switch is actuated. By the way, it's a Workhorse chassis.

HELP

Bill

[AFChap]

Not a National coach, and not a Workhorse, but I do have a battery boost switch... I'm not sure you actually have a problem ...I just pushed my battery boost switch and the only click I hear is a tiny click in the switch itself ...none from the solenoid which is in the compartment directly below. I normally do the the BIRD solenoid clicking back and forth, and it is located right beside the boost solenoid. I tried it just to see because I don't recall ever hearing a click when I have used the switch, but it has worked as designed when I have had to use it.

[M&EM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSRG Today as I was messing around in my 2005 Sea Breeze 8360 when I noticed that I couldn't hear a clicking noise when I depressed the battery boost switch on the dash. After checking the solenoid, I found out that it seems to be energized all the time. If I disconnect the yellow wire from the solenoid, it would click [I assume it is disconnecting when I hear the click]. Does anyone know if this yellow wire is the wire that comes from the battery boost switch on the dash. It seems to me that this wire should only be hot when the battery boost switch is actuated. By the way, it's a Workhorse chassis. HELP Bill

Bill, You don't mention if your rig was plugged into shore power... If it was, then the solenoid indeed should be energized if your charger is functioning properly. To test the boost switch, unplug from shore power and wait 15 minutes. Less waiting if you have some lights on to run down any surface chaarges. Then try your boost switch on the dash. If you hear it click your good to go.

Marty

[WSRG]

Marty:
I did what you said, as well as turning on the headlights for about 15 minutes. The solenoid is still actuated [with power to the yellow wire]. I did some further checking and found that there is no power at the battery boost dash switch. I have only had this coach for about a year with no real problems to speak of, including electrical, but I do try to keep ahead of the game by checking and maintaining everything I can think of. Am I just being paranoid?

Bill

[WSRG]

Marty and everyone:

After about 1/2 hour the solenoid de-energized. I went into the coach, pressed the battery boost switch and heard it energize. I'm OK now, thought I had a problem, but I still don't know how everything works yet. With your help, I'm learning.

Thanks to Marty and all

Bill

[wa8yxm]

If you have an INTELLETEC Battery Control System (And I assume some others) it is possible that your coach has dual-charging of both house and chassis batteries.. That is, Both ENGINE alternator and Shore Power charge both house and chassis batteries (most coaches the Alternator will charge the house. but only some coaches will the house charge the engine battery)

Here is how it works on my coach.. When I plug in with low batteries the house is charged, and when it gets "Full enough" (I have no clue as what level that is) the BCC will connect the chassis battery.. NOTE that this works both ways, if the house batteries are very low and I fire the engine then it first charges the chassis, and cuts in the house, they draw the chassis down a bit and it drops them off, like 3 times before it holds.

So if you were plugged in, and you have a "Smart" Battery controller. you should have already been connected

To disconnect the two batteries, Turn off the engine, Unplug from shore power (or kill your converter at the circuit breaker) have a cup of coffee (in order to let surface charge blead off) and it should be disconnected

[DaveG39]

f you have INTELLETEC you can go on their web site and download the troubleshooting methods. If you have RV Custom products you can call them with the model number you have and they will send you the wiring diagrams and troubleshooting documents. I have RV Custom Products and they sent me same. My unit is in to the RV shop for module replacement since it is not working properly. The chassis battery won't charge from shore power.

[M&EM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSRG Marty and everyone: After about 1/2 hour the solenoid de-energized. I went into the coach, pressed the battery boost switch and heard it energize. I'm OK now, thought I had a problem, but I still don't know how everything works yet. With your help, I'm learning. Thanks to Marty and all Bill

Bill, it sounds like your system is working fine. It would be helpful to know about your rigs equipment when asking for diagnosis help such as photovoltaic panels and shore power status.

The BCC is quite a nice system in your rig which works bidirectionally to keep both house and chassis batteries charged. This is my understanding of how it works:
Which ever side or both sides is providing charging power be it the alternator, the shore power or gen or solar power, the BCC controls whether the chassis and house batterie share the charging source. This is based on the threshold voltage the BCC is set to. That voltage is factory setable on the BCC circuit board and is around 13.2 volts. When a charging systems' batteries reach that set voltage, the solenoid will energize and share to the other system. Conversely, the solenoid will de-energize when the two systems tied together lower to around 12.7 volts.

Apparently your batteries were well charged and it took at least the half hour you mentioned before the lower set point of about 12.7 volts was reached. Once the solenoid is un energized, The dash booster switch can be used to turn it back on.

Marty

[WSRG]

I did notice that when I hit the battery boost switch, the voltage was below 12.7 volts on the chassis battery volt meter.

Boy, did you guys send me to school today. Thank you all, especially Marty, for the great info.

What a great forum.....

Bill