Cable TV Wiring... Going NUTS!

[CaptMark]

I have a 1997 National Tropical 36 and have been going crazy this week trying to figure out the cable TV wiring.

I have cable TV wires (coax) in the area above the helm. It's where I mounted a 40" LCD.

I also have a TV Jack in the closet above the dresser table in the stateroom.

In the same compartment as my power and sewer connections, I have a plug clearly labled as cable TV.

I logically figured that all I need to do is plug in there with my feed (Comcast Cable) and all the jacks would be live. I even got HD boxes from Comcast for both Tvs.

The previous owner had a direct TV dish. There is also the old factory powered antenna.

There has to be a splitter of some sort behind a wall, panel or somewhere..

Does anyone know the route the wire takes from the imput jack at the rear of my rv?

I've been tearing apart every closet, panel and can't find a thing..

[Teachrz]

My '99 Tropi-cal has all of the cable connections terminating in the cabinet to the right of the front TV. I have 4 cables: antenna, rear TV, front TV and park cable. A splitter or distribution box is required to connect them all together.
When you figure it out, tell me why I can't get a strong enough signal to use both TV's at the same time. Either will work alone, but when I turn them both on, the rear loses signal, even with an amplifier.

[Dmreese1]

Do you have a Winegard video distribution switch panel anywhere in your entertainment center?

On my 05 Tropical, the Cable tv connector outside is routed to the Winegard switch panel. Ditto for the topside antenna, it is routed to the Winegard. Each TV is connected to the Winegard switch panel and you choose which [input] connects to the tv's via the Winegard.

I have never seen any distribution system hidden behind the walls, you have to be able to select the various inputs somehow.

The Dishnet or Direct TV input typically has to go to the satellite dish receiver directly, it operates at a higher frequency than my Winegard swicthbox.

I saw a recent suggestion to help trace the cables behind the TV, you can short the cables inputs, i.e., cable / antenna, etc., and use a multimeter to check for the shorted cable to determine which cable goes to the various inputs.

[bluepill]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmreese1 I saw a recent suggestion to help trace the cables behind the TV, you can short the cables inputs, i.e., cable / antenna, etc., and use a multimeter to check for the shorted cable to determine which cable goes to the various inputs.

This is a valid method only if you know FOR A FACT that there is no DC power running in the co-ax to power an antenna or inline amplifier. Check with a voltmeter at ALL connectors before using the shorting method.

[Dmreese1]

Thanks Bluepill, very good point!

[CaptMark]

I have no distribution switch / panel. I can only assume that the previous owner took it out.

The antenna wire is easy to determine. It's goes into a circuit board that is powered.

That leaves me three wires. One would assume that one is the rear tv, another the park feed and the third from the crank up satellite dish.

But no matter how I connect them, I'm getting no cable signal over them.

Could there be a spitter somplace?

I'm going to buy a signal amplifier this monring and try that. I'm 800ft from the cable box, but it works perfectly if I bypass the RV wiring and plug directly into the cable box via an open window....

[Road King]

Try one of these, they make life a lot easier figuring out which cable goes where. Very easy to use.

http://www.altex.com/Test-Um-Coax-Mapper-Cable-Tester-CX200-P141729.aspx

[Alleyman]

Good way to trace coax... go to Home depot and buy their wire chaser tester. 26.00 and has connectors for all types of wire. saves a nightmare. good luck, went thru the same ordeal till I bought the tester.

[mr300ce]

I read all these TV threads because I am in a bit of a similar boat, so my answer may show up one day.

Cable in from outside connection is OK, and rear TV works OK on cable. But in cupboard behind Rear TV, the 12v plug has NO current, so cannot watch it when dry-camping. Anyone got any ideas I can try?

I haven't pulled the thing out of the wall yet, so there may be a fuse back in there, or somewhere else.

[jlyon69]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teachrz When you figure it out, tell me why I can't get a strong enough signal to use both TV's at the same time. Either will work alone, but when I turn them both on, the rear loses signal, even with an amplifier.

Had the identical problem with my '99 Dolphin (purchased last February). There was a switchbox (probably the original) in the right overhead compartment with everything plugged into it. It worked but, I knew I was definitely losing signal strength someplace. So I removed the switchbox for testing. I grabbed a new good quality splitter, plugged in the antenna and output to the front and rear TVs. Wow...what a difference! I then simply removed the antenna coax and plugged in the CATV coax....same thing, a big difference in picture quality. Since I don't switch between the two very often, I'm still setup this way.

After a few short trips, the quality dropped on the antenna only. After I got home, I installed a new solar panel and a frig vent. While on the roof I discovered the antenna coax was loose on the connector (not a good crimp) and the rubber boot was bad.... fixed those.

After a few months of storage, I decided to upgrade the TVs to flat panel LEDs. During that process, I noticed again the signal strength was low. I noticed the signal booster indicator light was out. After testing, I discovered the ground wire to the booster wasn't working. Since it ran up into the ceiling, I had no idea where it grounded. So I just cut it off and grounded it to another ground in the overhead. Since I had a mouse chew through my AC data cable, I'm figuring one of the pesky varmints got my ground wire.

That's my experience, hopefully it will help you with your problem.

[jlyon69]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr300ce I read all these TV threads because I am in a bit of a similar boat, so my answer may show up one day. Cable in from outside connection is OK, and rear TV works OK on cable. But in cupboard behind Rear TV, the 12v plug has NO current, so cannot watch it when dry-camping. Anyone got any ideas I can try? I haven't pulled the thing out of the wall yet, so there may be a fuse back in there, or somewhere else.

The first place I would look is on the 12VDC fuse panel for the coach. I don't know about yours, but mine will have a small light lit above any fuse that is blown.

[mr300ce]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlyon69 The first place I would look is on the 12VDC fuse panel for the coach. I don't know about yours, but mine will have a small light lit above any fuse that is blown.

Thanks, when it gets warm here again (40*F and dropping, 5:30pm) I will start checking all the fuses.

Also I will be installing my Christmas present to myself on New Years Day (since no football till Monday)......A new Sony in-dash stereo, and an amp with built-in sub-woofer. TV sound can run thru it too !!! Yippeee !!!!

During this install, I will be planning/layout my 1000w inverter install, so I can watch TV while dry-camping.

[Dmreese1]

CaptMark,

At this point anything is possible, the cable install has been compromised by the previous owner. I see this type of stuff a lot in various RV parks where people have resorted to running cables to the signal source through their windows, etc, you'll have to statr with the basics.

NOTE: Regardless of which method you use, i.e., dedicated tester or multimeter, you must check to be sure there is no 12V DC on the cables. The topside antenna typically has a booster included that has 12V to power it. Since you said there is a circuit board to this cable that is probably the voltage souce and pre-amplifier. Before you can short the cables or install remote testers you'll need to isure there is no voltage at the cable.

If I was looking at this, I'd start with the cable input feed at your sewer / water panel. I would use a voltmeter to verify no 12V DC at that spot and then short the cable center to ground. Inside, use an ohmeter or continuity signal to find the shorted cable. If none of the cables are shorted, either you don't have it routed there or there is an open someplace. Hopefully, you don't have an open, which could be anywhere.

Same idea for identifying the various TV feeds; short ONE cable at the rear TV location and see if any of the cables at the front are shorted.

Note: Use tape to mark the cables in the front area so you can ID them if you find a match.

Good luck, hopefully you will eliminate and ID the cables this way.

Duane

[wa8yxm]

A common "Trick" for those who use DirecTV (or Dish) with a ground mount tripod is to re-task the park-cable input/cable for Sat TV.

This means they disconnect it from the back of the switch box, and run it over to the sat receiver compartment.

To fix, you must FIRST identify the cable in question.. Then re-connect it to the back of the switch box "CABLE" jack.

To identify the cable... There are several ways.. I usually use a shorting bar on cables I know for a fact do not have voltage, then look for the shorted cable at the other end.

But they make sepcial tools just for tha job.. They feed the cable an audio signal, then you plug a speaker into each cable till you hear the BEEP.